Engine Sludge

[clk209]

Hi Guys,could do with some advice,the other day i unscrewed the oil cap just to check inside the engine as the car was making a rattle when first started in the morning but would then go once warm,to my horror there was cream like gunge on the oil cap and looking into the engine there was loads of sludge.I took it to my mechanic who said either the wrong velocity of oil has been used or i have done too many short journeys which i agree with as i tend to only do school runs.He told me that there was no way of getting rid of the sludge and leave it as it is unless i had a complete strip down of the engine.I have read on afew posts on here that there is ways of flushing the engine,firstly to drain the oil and fill with 1 litre of 15-40 oil and 6 litres of diesal and run that for 10 mins then drain,secondly use an engine oil flush.
Which one would be safest option as i dont want any sludge to block any vital parts from oil and when i do drain the oil how many litres would be needed to fill back up as there is no dip stick,car is a 2004 clk 200 kompressor.
Thanks in advance for any info

 

[spock500]

It's the other way around. Drain 1 litre of oil and replace with 1 litre of diesel.

Run for 10 mins with no load.

I am not familiar with this engine but if you have easy access to the rocker cover perhaps remove and clean. This will also give a better idea as to the extent of coverage.

 

[Frontstep]

There is always a risk of bocking oilways with a sludged up engine, repeated changes of oil will help after engine has reached temperature.
There are a few flushing additives around and bio diesel is used by some none are perfect the best thing is get car up to temperature regularly with some longer runs.

 

[WG M-B]

A good flush will do no harm. It is also possible that the crankcase ventilation valve is blocked. The valve is located behind the supercharger

 

[clk209]

Thanks for the replies so would you advise not flushing the engine and just do an oil change and then do another say after a couple of thousand miles.If so how much oil would i need to put in once it has been drained.

 

[WG M-B]

I would advise flushing it. We regularly flush when required. Never have a problem

 

[clk209]

thanks for the advice,would you say using an engine flush or using a litre of diesal mixed in with the oil ,also how many litres of oil would be needed to fill her back up,thanks

 

[Silver_Star]

The cream on the filler cap will be because the engine hasn't been getting to temperature, condensation will mix with the oil causing the mayo.

As above, you need to flush it. Then you need to do a few oil and filter changes in short succession.

On one of my other cars that didn't have sludge, however the tappets were louder than they should have been. I did a forte flush. Then a few oil and filter changes but substituted 1litre of engine oil for ATF. The problem was soon solved. Then just kept ontop of oil and filter changes.

However if you continue to use the car as a "shopping trolley" you will be in this predicament again. Short runs do the engine no favours.

 

[WG M-B]

I use forte flushing agents. Its made for the job!
Five litres to refill. Start her up and run, then switch off and recheck after ten minutes. When changing the oil make sure the oil filter is removed before draining

 

[Frontstep]

My post wasn't clear maybe a flushing additive then after that a shorter interval to next oil change read below.
The diesel addition I have never used so don't have any first hand knowledge.

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

Try reading above.

Or ask Mobil https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-Englis...ding_Diesel_Engine_Oil_to_Non_Diesel_Oil.aspx

 

[clk209]

your guys are amazing thanks so much for your replies,one last thing i needed advice on is that i have never done an oil change on this car is their a special tool needed to take the oil filter off and would i need to remove the under tray of the car to get at the sump and also was thinking of taking the rocker cover off to clean it,would this be a hard job,thanks again guys

 

[Silver_Star]

To get to the under tray it is standard 8mm hex heads, the sump plug is a 13mm hex head. Don't forget new copper washers and don't do the plug up too tight when refitting.

There is a special tool for the oil filter housing you can pick up from halfords for a few quid. Or you can use a rubber strap wrench or if your man enough just twist it with your hands

 

[clk209]

thanks again for the info,also was going to take the rocker cover off to give it a good clean inside,would this be a hard job? and would i need to get another gasket,

 

[WG M-B]

27mm spanner for the oil filter housing. I would leave the rocker cover personally. A good flushing agent will suffice

 

[clk209]

once again thank you for the info