HELP!!! CLK 230K sports - 98 - loss of power at high revs and stuttering at low revs.

Balal

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
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Location
Sheffield
Your Mercedes
SL 350 R230
Hello everyone.
I have a CLK 230 K sports. 1997-98. The car started stuttering few weeks back. Its like car would lack power at high revs (over 3-4000). and at times it would stutter at 2000 Revs and wouldnt go over 40 MPH. The engine had some fault codes. It says misfiring cylinder 1-4. I was told that this maybe due to exhaust. SO i changed the catalytic converter and the whole of combined back and middle box.

After that the car was very light to drive. But still lacked power at revs over 4000. A stage would come that on motor way car wouldnt pull at all. But when restarted car runs fine. Engine still had faults in it. So I was told it maybe the MASS AIR FLOW METER. SO I got a new MASS AIR FLOW METER. Got it installed today and guess what!! the car is still stuttering. Even at very low revs, foot off the accelerator i.e. when car is idle, it has small shakes to it as well. It is running very smooth. alot better then before but then at times it still isnt pulling over 40 MPH. Now I am told by garage that its to do with " Recirculating Air Flap Actuator" . DOes anyone know what it is ?!? is it same as warm air regulator ?! DO you think its going to solve the problem with acceleration/loss of power and stuttering?!?

I am really getting sick of paying £40 everytime the guy has to do diagnostics. Any suggestion apart from selling car as I really like this car and have just ordered a private plate for it as well :( !!!!!!!
 

jberks

Senior Member
Joined
May 12, 2004
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Location
M1, Outside lane, somewhere between Leeds and Lond
Your Mercedes
Jaguar XF 3.0 S, LR Freelander 2, Fiat 500 & Fiat Panda
It amazes me how many people keep paying garages to not fix the car. I have a basic rule with these things. I am not really interested in what causes the problem (I am but not for the purposes of the discussion with the mechanic), I simply want the car running properly. I have a specialist I trust not to rip me off or leave replaced components in the car if they make no difference. When in your situation I hand the garage the keys and walk away. It sometimes takes a few days but they eventually get to the bottom of it and its cheaper and less hassle than lots of one-off visits (one diag charge and the hourly charge usually reflects the work done, not necessarily all the time wasted persuing dead ends). However, aside from the money, it puts the responsibility of resolving it firmly on the shoulders of the mechanic, whereas at the moment its really your problem. The mechanic is worth a light, he'll see it as a personal challenge and want to resolve it. I normally give them permission to use the car themselves and treat it as their own, especially if the fault is intermittent. Basically give them a wide berth and let them get on with it with no deadlines as these only encourage short cuts. "Just let me have it back when its right".
 

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