Hole in the sill (W124)

MercStraight6

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Oh dear; I was inspecting the jacking points earlier and they looked pretty rotten; I poked around at the loose paint with my finger and at one of the points it went straight through the sill :(

See pictures attached.

This is why I don't like the plastic body mouldings that Mercedes added to the 124 post-1990. They provide an excellent opportunity for rust to form, and keep it hidden.

I'd imagine that if I want to keep it, a new sill will have to be welded in; could anyone offer any advice on what this would involve? The rest of the underbody seems pretty sound.

Thanks.
 

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MercStraight6

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Bump......
 

Xtractorfan

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You will have to remove the outer plastic sill and check on the amount of rust damage, these sills did rust around the jacking points mainly due to the fact that moisture and dirt collected there and also the welding in that area.. If the damage is extensive then new sill panels would be the method of repair, if only around the jacking points then a fully seam welded plate repair would be the way to go, as the sill panel has an outer covering, then the welding will only need to be protected from the elements and wont need to be flushed and painted as original.. This of course would depend on your level of acceptance..
 
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MercStraight6

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You will have to remove the outer plastic sill and check on the amount of rust damage, these sills did rust around the jacking points mainly due to the fact that moisture and dirt collected there and also the welding in that area.. If the damage is extensive then new sill panels would be the method of repair, if only around the jacking points then a fully seam welded plate repair would be the way to go, as the sill panel has an outer covering, then the welding will only need to be protected from the elements and wont need to be flushed and painted as original.. This of course would depend on your level of acceptance..

This is what I was thinking. After I get it done I will probably underseal the whole sill with POR-15 or Hammerite underbody seal and leave the plastic covers off so that dirt doesn't build up, and also to keep an eye on it.
 

White230CE

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Hi,

I have a 230CE and was just thinking about checking my sills when I read this post.

I've taken out the bolts from the underside of the moulding so it does come away a bit from the sill, but I'm wondering if I want to go to the trouble of taking off the moulding completely, as this will require removing the sill plate (which seems to be stuck on) and other interior trim, and I'm not sure how involved that is. Would appreciate any advice you can give on this.

As an alternative, and because the moulding does come away a bit, I'm thinking of just squirting Waxoyl into the gap all along the length of the sill, and re-bolting with new bolts (some were rusty and beginning to round off). Do you think that would do?

Thanks
 

wireman

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If you already have rust bubbles and dont repair and refinish the repair waxoil will seep/search beneath the good paint next to it and it will peel off leaving bare metal to rust again. This action takes a while but once its happened you can peel off big sheets of paint, I once did it to an E type and it cost a fortune to correct, make sure its sealed first before the waxoil gets anywhere near your car.
 

White230CE

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Took the plunge.

Pulled off the rear plastic panel on the rear wing - just held on by button clips.

After that, removed the plastic sill plate - again quite straightforward: It has vertical metal clips that push onto a metal edge sticking up vertically from the body. Just pulled upwards, taking care not to distort the plastic.

Then undid the 4 phillips screws covered by the plastic sill plate.

After that, beginning at the rear, pulled the sill moulding away from the little plastic button clips that hold it onto the body.

The lower sill is in remarkably good condition. The only rust is around the jacking point holes, but they look quite bad. Will clean it up and see just how bad. Will take a picture and post later. :neutral:
 

White230CE

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The jacking points at the front are the worst.

Pics say it all. :(

How much welding would you say is needed MercStraight6?

And how do I remove the rubber bumps underneath??

Thanks
 

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brianbrian

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As I remember they are plastic mounts where you jack up you will have to re place these as they always break getting them out, when you fit new ones you fit them up to the hole and tap the centre pin this holds them in. Hope this helps
 

turnipsock

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my 230TE failed on jacking points a couple of years ago, it didn't cost much to get them patched up. However, I'm sure the tank was almost full when I took it in but I was lucky to make the petrol station on the way home.

Before my 320CE mot I took the plastic stuff off and cleaned up the jacking points and painted them with hamerite...I sailed through the MOT.

Does anybody really use these jacking points?
 

White230CE

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As I remember they are plastic mounts where you jack up you will have to re place these as they always break getting them out, when you fit new ones you fit them up to the hole and tap the centre pin this holds them in. Hope this helps

Thanks Brian (aka Mod God :D). Also found a post by jibCL500 elsewhere which says he prised them off with a screwdriver. I guess it'll be 50:50 whether they break when I do it...:neutral:
 

White230CE

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Coatings for sills after welding

Hi all,

My sills are being sorted tomorrow: either side of each jacking point will be cut out and new metal welded into the gap. The welder will spray yellow Waxoyl inside the sills before welding. He also tells me the patch will fit the gap from inside the sill rather than over the gap from the outside. He will then fill, prime and paint.

Question is: should I be asking him to put any other coatings on, like underseal, epoxy, stonechip, black waxoyl? If so, at what stage before or after welding, priming or painting?

What is the difference between underseal, epoxy, stonechip and black waxoyl? I only have experience of yellow and black waxoyl.

Also, quite apart from all that, should I put yellow waxoyl on the newly painted surface before replacing the plastic mouldings?

Many thanks
 

Xtractorfan

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Wouldnt recommend putting waxoyl inside before welding, the welding will burn it off and possibly cause it to burn, also the fumes from the waxoyl wont help.. as for the plastic jacking points just punch the centres out with a flat faced round bar and the plastic piece will clip out,
 

White230CE

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How to remove jack stops

Hi,

This is for those who, like me, need to know how to remove the jack stops under the sills.

There is a slotted centre plug. Insert screwdriver into slot and find the inner notch against which to push downwards. Push downwards and the centre piece comes down like a long column. It is this column that spreads the internal hooks of the jack stop outwards within the sill. Once this column is pulled out, the jack stop pulls out.

See pics. :)
 

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Xtractorfan

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Apologies I forgot these had a head on the centre locking pin....and thanks to White230c for his correct posting..
 

cocothecat

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Hi all,

My sills are being sorted tomorrow: either side of each jacking point will be cut out and new metal welded into the gap. The welder will spray yellow Waxoyl inside the sills before welding. He also tells me the patch will fit the gap from inside the sill rather than over the gap from the outside. He will then fill, prime and paint.

Question is: should I be asking him to put any other coatings on, like underseal, epoxy, stonechip, black waxoyl? If so, at what stage before or after welding, priming or painting?

Many thanks

Do you know the welder in question or used him before? I only ask as there are some bad ones out there (at least in cardiff!) I would not bother about asking him to put anything extra on it providing he preps it well enough it should do the job.

I bought a welder and started to play with my triumph it was the only way I could get a job done to my satisfaction and I'm in way no way mechanically minded, alot of practice on scrap, trial and error and some friendly advice from friends in the know
 

White230CE

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Thanks coco.

The welder comes recommended by word of mouth, and he apparently does cars for most people where I live, so I think he'll do a good job. I'm thinking of asking him to take photos of each stage for me, for my photo album.

I'm at an early stage of my automotive DIY education, but learning to weld is definitely on my agenda. :) In fact, if I could, I would quit my day job and re-train in all things automotive!

I was asking about different layers because the link to the R107 restoration posted on this thread, seems to use just about every layer of protection known to man, and I wondered if I needed to do the same.
 

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