idle/stall issue still :(

[Legoman]

ok i fitted new fuel pumps and a filter , this seems to of made the engine more responsive , but once the engine reachs full temperature it stutters and hesitates , occasionally stalling , revving the engine is fine and it sounds great but as soon as the revs drop low it hesitates as if its misfiring (sounds to me ) it seems to tick over at 500-700 rpm where as on warm up its at 1000rpm and runs fine. as soon as operating temp is achieved the problem seems to occur. is there an obvious solution?

 

[jibcl500]

sounds like the same problem I have with a 1995 CL500, Ive changed the plugs, swapped the air flow meter for a known working one, swapped the coil packs and it still misfires once its warmed up.

Think Im going to suggest O2 sensors.

jib

 

[Legoman]

lol just took off the rotor arm and cap , it kinda answered the question on its own . there was sooo much furring up and white powder on centre contact i have no idea how it still worked , to add insult to injury theres a huge crack in the centre of the cap too. i think this might be the fault , im pretty sure ive heard this sort of thing would cause more problems when engine is warmed up.

 

[television]

The crack will be due to arcing, there are some good sprays around now to stop this from happening

 

[Legoman]

aye , ill replace the cap and arm though , there knackered tbh , also might get some leads too but it gets expensive lol , 50 for cap . 25 for arm , 60+ for leads. ouchie is the word that springs to mind.

(gonna clean up old one and dab some superglue into crack to secure it till i can get a new one , just came back of holiday so skint till end of month lol , good thing its my fun car and stays garaged atm)

 

[RaezoR]

If it was the Lambasensor (it attaches to the exhaust and electronically adjusts the petrol /air ratio) you would have increasing petrol consumption over time and weird acceleration etc on hillls similar to the old advance timing problems on Minis etc. where the condensor and points were to blame.

 

[Legoman]

nah im pretty sure its not that , i cleaned up the old cap and arm (severe pitting on the contacts on the dizzy cap!) using a brass wire wheel/brush on a dremel (great lil tool ) after refitting the car seems soo much better , gonna run it up to full temp tommorrow whilst i clean the car and see how it behaves , i dont expect a full recovery as the centre/coil lead pin on the cap has cracks on the plastic surrounding it one of which is a good 1cm long . this will probably cause the current to arc down it , also with the pitting on the outer contacts that wont be running to optimum . ah well im patient and shall slowly sort out all the niggles . car just needs some tlc as its been hardly used over the last few years by previous owner , i gotta try and clean up the rear brake lines too as they seem slightly corroded , a bit of aggresive sanding and some hammerite can sort that though , done that before and its passed the mot several times on a previous motor , also fitted the right spark plugs today , shows people dont pay attention to labels even when right next to the plugs themselfs lol , the amg sticker stipulates a different plug to the standard 300ce-24 , i guess due to the tuning they have done , FR 7DC+ are fitted now rather than the F8DC0 that were looking a bit tired anyway.

 

[RaezoR]

OK, but, where your brakes are concerned buy new copper piping and fix it or get someone to do it for you.

You should never skimp on brakes or tyres, that's Russian Roulette!!!!

The ignition stuff you might find at the scrapper. Find out which cars use the same ****, Bosch is a big company and the a lotta parts are easy to find.


RaezoR

 

[Seeker_UK]

My dad's 2.0 190E did the same thing. Starts OK, then when warm idle's as rough as a badger's bum.

The diagnosis was the HT leads needing replacing.

However, we'd ruled that out early on as he's had a set replaced less than 2 years previously. Just goes to show.

 

[Legoman]

aye , something ive learnt the hard way , never rule out a faulty part no matter how new it is , especially when it comes to the ignition system , high voltage + slight flaw in production can lead to premature failure. gonna invest in leads , cap and rotor arm as soon as i sell my mk2 golf gti soon on ebay , that should fetch a fair price as its had full top end rebuild , new suspension , 700quid alloys and disks + brakes all in the last year , also been in my family since new with full service history up to when i took it off my mum , since then ive done all the work , i expect between 600-1000 for it hopefully , will pay for my custom stainless exhaust too i hope