Inlet port shut off motor delete (CDI2)

[oigle]

well i did the hard part of this on my car over the bank holiday. at least 1 flap was disconnected from the linkage and the rest were sticking due to the cr@p from the days when the EGR valve worked.

i was UNABLE to aquire an M16 tap though, so instead i opened up the holes a little at the outer ends (that are usually tapped) with a stanley knife blade, then got some 15mm copper pipe blanking ends that plumbers use, and glued them into place with JB weld. now i need to get the resistor to delete the motor as its held in with a cable tie (for easy removal) against the manifold mounting metalwork, so i suspect it may jam the motor a little and put it into limp mode. only done 4 miles in it since doing the mod, but all seems ok so far!

Hope that is very good glue. You are dealing with quite a high air pressure inside the manifold which could blow them out.

 

[turbopete]

according to the blurb, it withstands up to 550 degrees F and has a tensile strength of 3960 PSI and im assuming that, even at full boost, the manifold would have a lower tensile strength than that, and run at lower temperatures.

link to blurb

http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld/

opinions welcome!

 

[Avibls]

C200 CDI 3- failure of the inlet flaps servo motor M55

Hello Alex, Can I install the resistor in my C200 2006 (CDI3)? As I understood I have to cut the signal wire and the 12v wire near the ECU and to bridge both with the 10K resistor (connected to the ECU). Can it harm the engine ECU?
Thanks, Avi

 

[Avibls]

Hello Alex, Can I install the resistor in my C200 2006 (CDI3)? As I understood I have to cut the signal wire and the 12v wire near the ECU and to bridge both with the 10K resistor (connected to the ECU). Can it harm the engine ECU?
Thanks, Avi

 

[oigle]

according to the blurb, it withstands up to 550 degrees F and has a tensile strength of 3960 PSI and im assuming that, even at full boost, the manifold would have a lower tensile strength than that, and run at lower temperatures.

link to blurb

http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld/

opinions welcome!

Sounds good. The exhaust manifold could exceed that temp threshold but not the inlet. The glue sounds strong. Hope it works OK for you.

 

[Avibls]

I works on CDI3

It works well on CDI3. I installed a 5k resistor on the signal line near the ECU. The other wire was connected to the 5K resistor (12V terminal 87 from the fuse box).
Thank you very much for the idea.

 

[clk200]

I did this to my car recently and the engine light does t come on. But at idel and upto 1500rpm the engine does produce a lot more smoke than is normal, could it be this mod?
The car is a clk320 cdi

 

[jonsky7]

Hi, first post,

Just did this on my MY05 CLS 320cdi V6 with OM642 engine and I firstly wanted to say THANK YOU! Got to rate you as one of my best internet HEROES!!

Background:
I only travel 5 miles to work and back each day, car has just done 40k miles. Every couple of months I travel 300 miles to see my parents.
Returning from work yesterday the car started to go into limp mode, wouldn't go above 3000rpm but with no engine light. Turning engine off and on again would reset it for a few minutes. This morning I had the check engine light. Turning the engine off worked only for a matter of seconds.

Got to work and arranged some time off to get it sorted. I had read other forums where a suggestion of EGR valve was made so I unplugged it to see what would happen for my drive home. Strangely I had some power restored and the 3000rpm limit was no more but it felt like there was no boost from the turbo. So I took the EGR valve out to clean it but it didn't fix the problem, I didn't think it was going to as the valve moved fairly freely.

Took it to the local indie to have the codes read, and the dreaded "P2513 Check component M55 inlet port shutoff motor" showed up. Along with a Boost pressure fault and an O2 sensor fault.

So I stumbled across this post and now full power is restored for the grand sum of 44p, can't get better than that!

Only problem is the Check Engine Light remains on, will it go out by itself or do I need to reset it, ebay OBD2 scanner reset tool? Sorry if this is a newb question

Thanks again!!!!!

 

[jonsky7]

Hi, first post,

Just did this on my MY05 CLS 320cdi V6 with OM642 engine and I firstly wanted to say THANK YOU! Got to rate you as one of my best internet HEROES!!

Background:
I only travel 5 miles to work and back each day, car has just done 40k miles. Every couple of months I travel 300 miles to see my parents.
Returning from work yesterday the car started to go into limp mode, wouldn't go above 3000rpm but with no engine light. Turning engine off and on again would reset it for a few minutes. This morning I had the check engine light. Turning the engine off worked only for a matter of seconds.

Got to work and arranged some time off to get it sorted. I had read other forums where a suggestion of EGR valve was made so I unplugged it to see what would happen for my drive home. Strangely I had some power restored and the 3000rpm limit was no more but it felt like there was no boost from the turbo. So I took the EGR valve out to clean it but it didn't fix the problem, I didn't think it was going to as the valve moved fairly freely.

Took it to the local indie to have the codes read, and the dreaded "P2513 Check component M55 inlet port shutoff motor" showed up. Along with a Boost pressure fault and an O2 sensor fault.

So I stumbled across this post and now full power is restored for the grand sum of 44p, can't get better than that!

Only problem is the Check Engine Light remains on, will it go out by itself or do I need to reset it, ebay OBD2 scanner reset tool? Sorry if this is a newb question

Thanks again!!!!!

Well the CEL turned off itself after a few starts but unfortunately I suffered with a loss of fuel consumption, about 8-10mpg on the long run to my parents (300miles more or less constant 75mph).

I wonder if that means the flaps are spring loaded closed on my engine. Anyway, took a few parts off the engine to get access to the motor arm and gave it a push, it moved freely. Leading me to believe that it was just the motor that had stopped working. There was a little bit of oil residue around that area but not massive amounts.

Got myself a new one and my dad I fitted it in his garage, bit of a pain in the arse job taking the turbo off and all, but it went fairly smoothly. Renewed both the turbo inlet seal and the oil breather hose seal while we were at it.

Mpg was back to normal on the drive back home from my parents and I think there was a little more power compared to when I had the resistor in. Again leading my thoughts towards a spring loaded closed position.

I would have liked to try it with the resistor in and the arm moved against the spring to see what it would be like but it's all fixed now.

Thanks again

 

[bill sparnon]

Hello everyone. What an excellent explanation of the problem and solutions here. My year 2000 E220 CDI 197,000 miles and a bit of rust is stuck in limp home mode, no faults come up on dashboard but my indie says the inlet manifold motor need replacing, cost for part about 170 pounds. Plus labour of course, expect a bill of about 400 pounds. Makes sense for me to follow the guidance here which I will do soon. My question is that if I manage to do the mechanical work to the manifold and wire in the resistor is it likely that the car will return to normal power, ie out of limp home mode, or will I need to reset the fault code before it returns to full power. 2nd question, can this code be reset without a star machine by any means at all or by any commercially available equipment. Much obliged to anyone who can advise on the 2 questions please

 

[Alex Crow]

I would expect it not to need the code erasing, if the P1189 is the only one there.

A generic scanner might erase it, but you need to connect through the Mb 38 pin plug.
A more function scanner (eg X431 or Snap on) should be able to do it, if you have the right leads.

 

[hwjr_mb]

Hi guys,

I have a G270CDI with a blown turbo, so I have to do some work on the car. I am planning the EGR and flap mod also.

How do you take off the inlet manifold without lifting the engine? The G is even more roomier than the ML, however it seems impossible to reach under the manifold to loosen the bolts. Any chance you can point me in the right direction here or any other readers?

 

[JML270]

Delete done today, at the ECU end, Plug 4 wire pins 22 & 33 - no faults.
Many thanks Alex.

 

[stumo]

How do you take off the inlet manifold without lifting the engine? The G is even more roomier than the ML, however it seems impossible to reach under the manifold to loosen the bolts. Any chance you can point me in the right direction here or any other readers?

On the ml you go in under the wheel arch. The lower half of the inner guard is plastic and is ubolted and removed, exposing the underside of the manifold so it can be unbolted. Without that its impossible to reach those bolts on the ml. Not sure if the gwagen has the same.

 

[flyingtech55]

Just a random thought regarding removing the inlet manifold flaps. Do these not prevent diesel run away if the turbo oil seal fails? As I understand it, if you switch off the 'ignition' the flaps close under spring pressure. If the turbo oil seal fails the engine air intake will be closed by the flaps by default when you turn the engine off thus stopping it. If the flaps are removed these is nothing to stop the engine.

TimR

 

[jj1975]

Just a random thought regarding removing the inlet manifold flaps. Do these not prevent diesel run away if the turbo oil seal fails? As I understand it, if you switch off the 'ignition' the flaps close under spring pressure. If the turbo oil seal fails the engine air intake will be closed by the flaps by default when you turn the engine off thus stopping it. If the flaps are removed these is nothing to stop the engine.

TimR

Hi
the flaps do not stop the engine even flaps are in place

 

[flyingtech55]

Ahh...I just wondered if it might be a hidden gotcha.

Thanks

Tim

 

[apow]

Swirl moter dead

Hi all.

Stumbled on this forum a couple of days ago. Thanks to your posts you have averted a very large problem for me using the resistor trick.

I imported my 2008 S320 CDI into Malaysia, however this engine is not in use here so no replacement swirl motor is available.

Working perfectly.
Many, Many thanks to all who have posted on this problem.

 

[iaML270]

Delete done today, at the ECU end, Plug 4 wire pins 22 & 33 - no faults.
Many thanks Alex.

Hi JML270, having completed the EGR delete i am now looking at this inlet port delete and have traced what i think are pins 22 & 33 plug 4.
(I have taken plug number as counting from wing inwards to towards ctr of vehicle)
Wires identified are Grey (22) and Red/Black (33).
Would really like to double check this tallies with your colours as I am a little more nervous cutting wires than just soldering on the EGR mod..!

 

[Alex Crow]

Hi JML270, having completed the EGR delete i am now looking at this inlet port delete and have traced what i think are pins 22 & 33 plug 4.
(I have taken plug number as counting from wing inwards to towards ctr of vehicle)
Wires identified are Grey (22) and Red/Black (33).
Would really like to double check this tallies with your colours as I am a little more nervous cutting wires than just soldering on the EGR mod..!

You are correct - they are the right wires.