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Inspecting my R230 for rust, how to and checklist?

Discussion in 'Bodywork, Tyres, Wheels & Trim' started by Conor, Oct 7, 2019.

  1. Conor

    Conor Senior Member

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    Hi Guys,

    Just one week left until I get home to my recently purchased R230.

    One of the evenings I will take it to Pit Start garage and want to get a look at the rust situation. I plan on sticking it on a lift, removing the wheels and arch liners and using a pretty decent torch to look over it. Some people might say that's what you do before purchase, but what fun what that be :cool:

    Any tips on this for me or other items I need to check also?

    * Is it easy to remove the wheel arch liners? (Do I need a guide)
    * Should I be prepared to need to wash down the liners before removing - i.e. buildup of dirt?
    * Any other parts of the under carriage I should check while I am there?
    * I will also check the brake lines as these are advisories on recent MOT.

    * This is merely a simple recon mission so that I can determine the scale of the rust and I can take it from there.

    Thanks in advance..

    P.S. There seems to be little online about this type of task for the R230, I will try and take as much photo/video as possible.
     
  2. Blobcat

    Blobcat Moderator

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  3. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    Rear arch lip, top of rear wings (edge of boot seal), below rear window, rear boot floor and sills and that's about it.
     
  4. OP
    Conor

    Conor Senior Member

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    Ahh I saw that one actually but kind of forgot about it because the photos are missing - such a shame as it is a great guide. I will follow that all the same.

    Cool, thanks.
     
  5. AMGeed

    AMGeed Senior Member

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    If its up on a lift, I'd take the opportunity to remove the engine trays and check the chassis, get a bar and see if there is any play in the ball joints and check the torque arm bushes, then the engine/transmission for oil leaks.
    All a lot easier with the car in the air instead of crawling under it.
     
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  6. OP
    Conor

    Conor Senior Member

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    Oh yea was going to check for leaks but didn't think of ball joints etc. I must find out exactly what they look like first :shock:

    What kind of bar is suitable? Something with a wedge like a crow/nail bar or would a breaker bar do?

    Thanks.
     
  7. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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    Also under the car are two diagonal struts under the engine. They have a habit of creaking. Undo the bolts, copper grease them and refit the bars.
     
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  8. AMGeed

    AMGeed Senior Member

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  9. Flyinspanner

    Flyinspanner Senior Member

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    Any undertrays etc you want to remove, try to spray nuts/screws with a penetrant before you go at them (pref the day before) but give them at least an hour.

    Sometimes the heads will snap off - so maybe a cordless drill, and a few drill bits and self tappers :shock:
     
  10. OP
    Conor

    Conor Senior Member

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    Good tips, thanks!
     
  11. Kev555

    Kev555 Senior Member

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    Any bolts I take off undertrays bushing bolts or any bolts on the vehicle that are prone to rust, I put a little smear of copper grease on them, especially if I think theres any chance I will be loosening the same bolt again in the future
     
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  12. Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    Maybe take some ACF50 and after taking off all the under trays , spray brake pipes , ABC pipes .
    Brush to brush any rust down , maybe Dinitrol or other spray to coat rust .
    Extending spray pipe for the Dinitrol to get into any voids . Their website has a lot of info
    Camera for photographing everything (for me :D)
    That Pit Start place looks interesting with pretty good charges as well
     
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  13. Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    Change your rear diff oil whilst you are there ?
     
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  14. OP
    Conor

    Conor Senior Member

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    Thanks for this.

    Next week is just a quick inspection. I just really need to get at the rear arches to see the rust.. Along with the brakes.

    I will be returning a bunch of times to other pieces of work which will include the above.

    @Wighty ill take plenty of pics.. And even some video if you are lucky with my new toy :)
     
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  15. Flyinspanner

    Flyinspanner Senior Member

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    Acton isn’t far from me in Ruislip, you’ll have to let us know what the facilities are like, handy to have a lift/ramp
     
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  16. OP
    Conor

    Conor Senior Member

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    I plan on doing so.. I have seen mixed reports online about tools etc. But as long as the bay works I will be happy. Can bring my own tools.

    They haven't responded to email.. I also saw a company of similar name dissolved during summer.

    Im still in Mexico. Anybody fancy picking up the phone to see if they are still in business?
     
  17. LostKiwi

    LostKiwi Senior Member

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  18. OP
    Conor

    Conor Senior Member

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    RE: Pitstart Garage - They are still in operation. I spoke to a guy yesterday (Didn't seem overly friendly) but said the only documentation I needed to bring was money and also I could "do anything I wanted" when I asked if I could spray my brake calipers..
     
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  19. Wighty

    Wighty Senior Member

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    Sounds like you better keep an eye on your own tools :rolleyes:
     
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  20. OP
    Conor

    Conor Senior Member

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    What is the difference between the copper grease mentioned here and a general purpose, lithium based multi purpose grease (Comma brand) that I recently purchased.

    Is it sufficient to use the GP instead of copper based for the tasks above?

    I've seen some notes about copper being abrasive and not to be used on moving parts, along with it being an anti-seize compound?

    It seems there are many types of grease, and every time I read about a task, I come across a new type of grease lmao..
     

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