Mercedes E320cdi 722.9 DIY Gearbox oil change

[D5meister]

Did the final levelling off at 45C used a contact reference thermometer on the pan.
Be aware that the pan heats up quite unevenly, stays cold at rear of the pan for a while until it all gets going properly- for them who dont use the internal temp sensor.
Plus I couldnt cycle through all of the gears only got to 1 and 2 and reverse.
I took the brake off as all wheels were off gound. But one rear brake hade stuck on as laid up for weeds and only one wheel turned on the diff - I got lots of skid warnings and messages and alarms.
Did get an quick error message when I took it up my road, slight hesitant change I thought, I suspect box related. But it went before I could read it. The changes are imperceptable on way up.
Slight jerk on decelleration about 3-2 same as before ATF change. Feels like regular decel using manual box and engine braking so not really a thing but is the only noticeable thing on this box.

Im a bit edgy that I couldnd do the gear changes, I may retry and at least try and get every gear possibly on a run.
Then throw a litre in and re do drail level at 45C.
May ivest in ICARSOFT or Autel, and recommendations for most useful bang for buck. e.g. monitor all of the maintenance things and reset normal PITA things for least cash.

 

[Jim2]

Did the final levelling off at 45C used a contact reference thermometer on the pan.
Be aware that the pan heats up quite unevenly, stays cold at rear of the pan for a while until it all gets going properly- for them who dont use the internal temp sensor.
Plus I couldnt cycle through all of the gears only got to 1 and 2 and reverse.
I took the brake off as all wheels were off gound. But one rear brake hade stuck on as laid up for weeds and only one wheel turned on the diff - I got lots of skid warnings and messages and alarms.
Did get an quick error message when I took it up my road, slight hesitant change I thought, I suspect box related. But it went before I could read it. The changes are imperceptable on way up.
Slight jerk on decelleration about 3-2 same as before ATF change. Feels like regular decel using manual box and engine braking so not really a thing but is the only noticeable thing on this box.

Im a bit edgy that I couldnd do the gear changes, I may retry and at least try and get every gear possibly on a run.
Then throw a litre in and re do drail level at 45C.
May ivest in ICARSOFT or Autel, and recommendations for most useful bang for buck. e.g. monitor all of the maintenance things and reset normal PITA things for least cash.

I bought the iCarsoft MB 11 ( newer version is iCarsoft V2 ) and I have found it excellent for my need's and skill level..it allows a very good level of scanning, without going too deep and allowing you to make critical changes. More recently, I upgraded to the iCarsoft CRO PRO, which while MB orientated, allows a good scanning level on many different makes, hence my reason for upgrading. But the iCarsoft MB 2 is a very useful tool to have, especially for the kind issues you seem to be having after the trans fluid change. If you do decide on iCarsoft product's, buy only from a recognized source, like UK Direct. They will provide update'a as they become available. Good Luck !!!

 

[Oldspanners]

The only thing I would add to Wighty's excellent list is this.
The best thing I found to collect oil when working on gearbox oil changes are the above (about 4€ each) 25 litres and just the right size to collect all the drips of oil and the sump pan and low enough not to get in the way when undoing bolts.
Get two, one to drop the pan into and the second to move across when you take the pan away to clean.

 

[Jim2]

The only thing I would add to Wighty's excellent list is this.
The best thing I found to collect oil when working on gearbox oil changes are the above (about 4€ each) 25 litres and just the right size to collect all the drips of oil and the sump pan and low enough not to get in the way when undoing bolts.
Get two, one to drop the pan into and the second to move across when you take the pan away to clean.

Yes, I'd 2nd that..even though I can get mine high enough off the ground, a wide and low drain pan ( or 2) is advisable, for sure!!!

 

[D5meister]

I did get my atf re tested and it was low by about a litre. Main thing had done wrong was turning off the engine for the final drain.
The daimler merc procedure says leave it on.
The issue is th atf radiator is above the pan. Between turning the engine off at 45C and getting under the car and getting ready for the final drain, the atf rad if darining and filling the pan.
When you drain, it now over drains.
My 2 to 3 up chane was bit harsh cold. Now with extra litre and deained at 45C engine running 2 to 3 is smooth as u like at any temp.
I was nervous i had caused big danage, was assured if it did not go to limp home the level was never sensed as too low. Had goog run from cambridge to Kendal at w/e And didnt skip a beat. Returned 61mpg doing 70mph in 7th most of time.
Hope this helps someone else with lurch from 2 to 3

 

[GeoffWestWales]

I bought the iCarsoft MB 11 ( newer version is iCarsoft V2 ) and I have found it excellent for my need's and skill level..it allows a very good level of scanning, without going too deep and allowing you to make critical changes. More recently, I upgraded to the iCarsoft CRO PRO, which while MB orientated, allows a good scanning level on many different makes, hence my reason for upgrading. But the iCarsoft MB 2 is a very useful tool to have, especially for the kind issues you seem to be having after the trans fluid change. If you do decide on iCarsoft product's, buy only from a recognized source, like UK Direct. They will provide update'a as they become available. Good Luck !!!

I just bought the iCarsoft MB V 2.0 brilliant bit of kit and got mine for the bargain price of £135 from an official dealer and no issues when putting my serial number in to register as heard their are some copies doping the rounds?. Got mine from https://ljmcardiagnostics.co.uk/ I have no connection with the company just a real happy customer, it will be the best thing you will ever buy if your a keen diy mechanic.

 

[GeoffWestWales]

I just bought the iCarsoft MB V 2.0 brilliant bit of kit and got mine for the bargain price of £135 from an official dealer and no issues when putting my serial number in to register as heard their are some copies doping the rounds?. Got mine from https://ljmcardiagnostics.co.uk/ I have no connection with the company just a real happy customer, it will be the best thing you will ever buy if your a keen diy mechanic.

Note to self check you have not hit the wrong keys when typing, dam these fat fingers

 

[GeoffWestWales]

Good post Wighty you did a good job there, going to brave the same job on my e270 5G seen as I dont know the last time it was done, and about to drop the oil and filter, the strange thing is I got Mobil 1 shipped from Germany cheaper than the UK and working in the Oil Industry you are doing your bit to help us out

 

[Wighty]

Good post Wighty you did a good job there, going to brave the same job on my e270 5G seen as I dont know the last time it was done, and about to drop the oil and filter, the strange thing is I got Mobil 1 shipped from Germany cheaper than the UK and working in the Oil Industry you are doing your bit to help us out

Thanks buddy , You will be fine with the 5g , much easier with the dipstick tube (make sure you buy the dipstick ) .
The fill from above 5g makes life so much easier

 

[Jim2]

Speaking of iCarsoft, how is everyone doing with Updates? When was the last time you had an update? and what Nr was it?

 

[bembo449]

had one earlier this year feb I think , not sure what NR it was but I believe I was upto date after the install

 

[Wighty]

Speaking of iCarsoft, how is everyone doing with Updates? When was the last time you had an update? and what Nr was it?

Jim you should post a link to @GeoffNorthWales with the excellent write up you did on the oil cooler pipe drain business

 

[Jim2]

Jim you should post a link to @GeoffNorthWales with the excellent write up you did on the oil cooler pipe drain business

Will do Wighty...have to find where I put it first though...but I remember it well enough anyhow. I'll give him a shout and see if he has it done yet or not. No problem.

 

[Jim2]

Good post Wighty you did a good job there, going to brave the same job on my e270 5G seen as I dont know the last time it was done, and about to drop the oil and filter, the strange thing is I got Mobil 1 shipped from Germany cheaper than the UK and working in the Oil Industry you are doing your bit to help us out

Hi GeoffNorthWales, if you have not yet carried out the trans oil change and flush, let me know as I've done it on my 5sp Eclass W212, and can give you a few tips that worked out very well for me, OK?

 

[GeoffWestWales]

Hi GeoffNorthWales, if you have not yet carried out the trans oil change and flush, let me know as I've done it on my 5sp Eclass W212, and can give you a few tips that worked out very well for me, OK?

Hi Jim,
Think that would really help as not done it yet, yesterdays job was trying to repair the disco door lock, its bouncing like an old school raver, was organised for once did my research and bought the little springs, watched a guy on Youtube who goes by the name Car D Oligy, one of his lines early on was, my spring was not broken, after waching him wrestle it into submission, it spurred me on and off I went, and sure enough my spring was in perfect nick, it was just as dry as a bone, thought it would fix my not locking from the keyfob but thats looking like a broken micro switch or track on the circuit board and as its the only key I have may leave that job to people with better skills and eyesight

Lets hope I dont find any nasty things lurking in the gearbox oil change, but she shifts as smooth as a door to door salesmans patter but as I intend keeping her for a couple of years may as well do it to make sure so your notes would really help, so thanks for your kind offer.

 

[Jim2]

Hi Jim,
Think that would really help as not done it yet, yesterdays job was trying to repair the disco door lock, its bouncing like an old school raver, was organised for once did my research and bought the little springs, watched a guy on Youtube who goes by the name Car D Oligy, one of his lines early on was, my spring was not broken, after waching him wrestle it into submission, it spurred me on and off I went, and sure enough my spring was in perfect nick, it was just as dry as a bone, thought it would fix my not locking from the keyfob but thats looking like a broken micro switch or track on the circuit board and as its the only key I have may leave that job to people with better skills and eyesight

Lets hope I dont find any nasty things lurking in the gearbox oil change, but she shifts as smooth as a door to door salesmans patter but as I intend keeping her for a couple of years may as well do it to make sure so your notes would really help, so thanks for your kind offer.

Ok here it is, apologies if it's a bit longwinded.... )
There are 3 ways to change the trans fluid in a MB:
First, (applies to all methods,) jack up the car safely, 4 wheels off the ground , as it needs to be completely level. I'm pretty sure that you will do it like this anyway, just mentioning it, OK? Also give the car a bit of a drive to warm the oil.
(1) remove the drain plug, and allow the trans oil to drain into a plastic basin, as you will need to replace the exact amount removed. ( This is step 1 for all changes )For some, after the draining has finished, they will then replace the amount drained,run to 80c, check and top up. If this is done often enough, the theory is that eventually, you will have replaced all of the oil..this is the theory .. ( Its also called the "Lazy Way" )
(2) As above, but removing the sump completely, allowing much more time for it to drain, removing and replacing the filter and gasket. this is of course a much better result then the stage 1 drain. But it does not change the fluid in the connector pipes, the oil cooling radiator, or the torque Converter. So in the best case, its a 50/50 drain.
(3) After stage 1 and stage 2 draining has been completed, and the drained oil has to be replaced, then you disconnect one of the two pipes connecting the Transmission to the cooling radiator. My choice is the connection at the trans housing on the drivers side. I then connect a drain hose to the pipe with a banjo bolt ( see pics ) jury -rigged, but effective. Hand brake on, selector in in "P" start the engine, and it will start to pump out fluid via the cooler pipe. When it has pumped out 2 ltrs, stop engine. Replace the 2 litres with new fluid, repeat the process, 2 ltrs x 2 ltrs until fresh fluid appears. Remove jury rigged hose and banjo bolt , and reconnect cooling pipe to trans body. Run engine and move selector through all the gears and position's, up and down a few times..leaving it is each position for a few mins. Then check the level, ( make sure the the temp is 80c, this is very important, as otherwise, you may not get the level right, and these boxes are very sensitive to either too much or two little oil, See graph ) Another thing to watch out for is cleanliness ( for such an oily job.. ) Do not use any cloth that contains microfibres to clean the sump ) or indeed anything else during this job ) I've attached a pic of the dipstick, and there is something you might do for me ( and Wighty ) when the trans sump is removed, would you insert the dipstick, and take a pic of where it enters the sump, and how deep it goes? There is a little "Black Diamond" on the dipstick, and as far as I know, its to stop the dipstick at the correct level. meaning that no matter how long the dipstick is, as long as its long enough, it will always give the correct reading. But we ( Wighty and myself ) would like to see proof of this, OK.? if there is any other info you need, or clarification's, don't hesitate to ask, its no problem.

 

[GeoffWestWales]

Ok here it is, apologies if it's a bit longwinded.... )
There are 3 ways to change the trans fluid in a MB:
First, (applies to all methods,) jack up the car safely, 4 wheels off the ground , as it needs to be completely level. I'm pretty sure that you will do it like this anyway, just mentioning it, OK? Also give the car a bit of a drive to warm the oil.
(1) remove the drain plug, and allow the trans oil to drain into a plastic basin, as you will need to replace the exact amount removed. ( This is step 1 for all changes )For some, after the draining has finished, they will then replace the amount drained,run to 80c, check and top up. If this is done often enough, the theory is that eventually, you will have replaced all of the oil..this is the theory .. ( Its also called the "Lazy Way" )
(2) As above, but removing the sump completely, allowing much more time for it to drain, removing and replacing the filter and gasket. this is of course a much better result then the stage 1 drain. But it does not change the fluid in the connector pipes, the oil cooling radiator, or the torque Converter. So in the best case, its a 50/50 drain.
(3) After stage 1 and stage 2 draining has been completed, and the drained oil has to be replaced, then you disconnect one of the two pipes connecting the Transmission to the cooling radiator. My choice is the connection at the trans housing on the drivers side. I then connect a drain hose to the pipe with a banjo bolt ( see pics ) jury -rigged, but effective. Hand brake on, selector in in "P" start the engine, and it will start to pump out fluid via the cooler pipe. When it has pumped out 2 ltrs, stop engine. Replace the 2 litres with new fluid, repeat the process, 2 ltrs x 2 ltrs until fresh fluid appears. Remove jury rigged hose and banjo bolt , and reconnect cooling pipe to trans body. Run engine and move selector through all the gears and position's, up and down a few times..leaving it is each position for a few mins. Then check the level, ( make sure the the temp is 80c, this is very important, as otherwise, you may not get the level right, and these boxes are very sensitive to either too much or two little oil, See graph ) Another thing to watch out for is cleanliness ( for such an oily job.. ) Do not use any cloth that contains microfibres to clean the sump ) or indeed anything else during this job ) I've attached a pic of the dipstick, and there is something you might do for me ( and Wighty ) when the trans sump is removed, would you insert the dipstick, and take a pic of where it enters the sump, and how deep it goes? There is a little "Black Diamond" on the dipstick, and as far as I know, its to stop the dipstick at the correct level. meaning that no matter how long the dipstick is, as long as its long enough, it will always give the correct reading. But we ( Wighty and myself ) would like to see proof of this, OK.? if there is any other info you need, or clarification's, don't hesitate to ask, its no problem.

Thanks for your great write up there Jim, I need to buy a dipstick as well as a banjo bolt as I prefer your method 3, far more thorough and will defo get you and wighty a picture, will have to break out the Haynes to see what atf fluid I need and get the filter and new sump gasket and do you know if the bolts can be re used or are they strech bolts?. Still got a few outstanding jobs, reluctor ring once the size 16 and 18mm spanners turn up, get my key repaired as can't lock the car no ir output on the lock button so suspect micro switch or broken track and just need to drop engine oil and filters and may as well do the diff when I do the box, she will be spoiled then and hope she pays me back with great reliabilty?

 

[Jim2]

Thanks for your great write up there Jim, I need to buy a dipstick as well as a banjo bolt as I prefer your method 3, far more thorough and will defo get you and wighty a picture, will have to break out the Haynes to see what atf fluid I need and get the filter and new sump gasket and do you know if the bolts can be re used or are they strech bolts?. Still got a few outstanding jobs, reluctor ring once the size 16 and 18mm spanners turn up, get my key repaired as can't lock the car no ir output on the lock button so suspect micro switch or broken track and just need to drop engine oil and filters and may as well do the diff when I do the box, she will be spoiled then and hope she pays me back with great reliabilty?

Well. mine has well paid back my "Investment " LOL ...when I bought the car, the fluid still retained an element of red coloring..if you held it up to the light....so was definitely over due a change, even though it was still driving without fault. But the change gave a much "Silkier, smoother " ( if thats the right word) change. . See in the attachment, what I went for,,and even with 10 litres, I had to get 2 more ,,,,,because of the flushing, I had to use a bit more, until the black fluid was replaced by the new red fluid...it was easy to tell the difference. I think that the extra two litres are worth it to guarantee a 100% complete flush. If you check the MB BEVO ( google ) it will give you the exact details of which fluid you need for your Merc. Gives a lot of other fluid info too, and all MB approved, which is very handy.
I used the original bolts, cleaned them well with a wire brush, and it worked out fine. Because I'd say they were never taken off before ( but I would definitely replace them next time ) I use a magnetic tray for holding the bolts, and just stick them on it in the order they were removed. If the dipstick tube still has a black plastic clip, then it's the original one, if it's red, then at some stage in it's life, it has been opened, but why is the question? was it just to check the level, or for a change?? Hard to tell, but from now on, at least you will know where you stand.
For your key and lock , I cant help you, as so far, mine are trouble free,,But I had the same problem in my last car, an A6, where the microswitches in the locks gave trouble, but after removing, dismantling and a good cleaning, they were fine again. Maybe the same with your's?
For the dipstick, it wont matter if its too long ( as long as it's long enough LOL ) and all will be proven when you check its position with the sump off, and we get to see exactly just how far the plastic measuring tip extends into the sump. Pretty sure that the "Black Diamond " at the end of the flexible metal part will prevent it from going too deep and giving a false level reading. But your pics will confirm it, I think. If the dipstick you do get is overlong, you can enter it into the pipe, then by "tapping" it , you will be able to determine its correct position, and you can either mark it with paint, or as I did, fitted a rubber grommet on it, and now when the grommet meets the tube, you know that the level check will be OK.
You will see from my order that I got the pilot bushing too, as when worn, it can allow the fluid to seep up through the wiring, and into the control module...which will not do it any good. But a word of advice here, if you are going to change it, when the sump is removed, is a good time. It can be a tricky job,,,there are 13 pin connectors involved, and they are very easy to bend, and then you will have a problem. If the cable and connector are bone dry, ( you will see the connection clearly )I'd be inclined to leave them alone.
Option 3 is definitely the best option, and after you have done it once, it will not be a problem 40'000 Miles down the road. If you had a problem with the color of the oil , or were not sure about the last change, you could still do a complete flush via the cooling pipe very quickly, but the Filter would not be changed, Still,,,for some one short of time, it could be a solution, and much better that just draining the sump via the sump plug, when the filter is not going to be changed anyway.
And questions. just ask, OK?? Good Luck, and let us know how you get on, OK?

 

[GeoffWestWales]

Well. mine has well paid back my "Investment " LOL ...when I bought the car, the fluid still retained an element of red coloring..if you held it up to the light....so was definitely over due a change, even though it was still driving without fault. But the change gave a much "Silkier, smoother " ( if thats the right word) change. . See in the attachment, what I went for,,and even with 10 litres, I had to get 2 more ,,,,,because of the flushing, I had to use a bit more, until the black fluid was replaced by the new red fluid...it was easy to tell the difference. I think that the extra two litres are worth it to guarantee a 100% complete flush. If you check the MB BEVO ( google ) it will give you the exact details of which fluid you need for your Merc. Gives a lot of other fluid info too, and all MB approved, which is very handy.
I used the original bolts, cleaned them well with a wire brush, and it worked out fine. Because I'd say they were never taken off before ( but I would definitely replace them next time ) I use a magnetic tray for holding the bolts, and just stick them on it in the order they were removed. If the dipstick tube still has a black plastic clip, then it's the original one, if it's red, then at some stage in it's life, it has been opened, but why is the question? was it just to check the level, or for a change?? Hard to tell, but from now on, at least you will know where you stand.
For your key and lock , I cant help you, as so far, mine are trouble free,,But I had the same problem in my last car, an A6, where the microswitches in the locks gave trouble, but after removing, dismantling and a good cleaning, they were fine again. Maybe the same with your's?
For the dipstick, it wont matter if its too long ( as long as it's long enough LOL ) and all will be proven when you check its position with the sump off, and we get to see exactly just how far the plastic measuring tip extends into the sump. Pretty sure that the "Black Diamond " at the end of the flexible metal part will prevent it from going too deep and giving a false level reading. But your pics will confirm it, I think. If the dipstick you do get is overlong, you can enter it into the pipe, then by "tapping" it , you will be able to determine its correct position, and you can either mark it with paint, or as I did, fitted a rubber grommet on it, and now when the grommet meets the tube, you know that the level check will be OK.
You will see from my order that I got the pilot bushing too, as when worn, it can allow the fluid to seep up through the wiring, and into the control module...which will not do it any good. But a word of advice here, if you are going to change it, when the sump is removed, is a good time. It can be a tricky job,,,there are 13 pin connectors involved, and they are very easy to bend, and then you will have a problem. If the cable and connector are bone dry, ( you will see the connection clearly )I'd be inclined to leave them alone.
Option 3 is definitely the best option, and after you have done it once, it will not be a problem 40'000 Miles down the road. If you had a problem with the color of the oil , or were not sure about the last change, you could still do a complete flush via the cooling pipe very quickly, but the Filter would not be changed, Still,,,for some one short of time, it could be a solution, and much better that just draining the sump via the sump plug, when the filter is not going to be changed anyway.
And questions. just ask, OK?? Good Luck, and let us know how you get on, OK?

More good tips there, thanks again, I may get brave and try and fix my key myself just a bit iffy as its my only one, the other option is to walk 3 miles each way to post it off to a repair guy via Royal Mail Special Delivery, and he recons he can fix it same day for £60, byt gone spending mad on the old girl this month so Mrs Roberts has kicked off so think better leave the gearbox oil change till next month. Don't know what she is thinking, she knows who the boss is in this house and any more of her stick and she can make the beds herself

 

[Jim2]

More good tips there, thanks again, I may get brave and try and fix my key myself just a bit iffy as its my only one, the other option is to walk 3 miles each way to post it off to a repair guy via Royal Mail Special Delivery, and he recons he can fix it same day for £60, byt gone spending mad on the old girl this month so Mrs Roberts has kicked off so think better leave the gearbox oil change till next month. Don't know what she is thinking, she knows who the boss is in this house and any more of her stick and she can make the beds herself

I'm very glad to hear that you ( like me ) are firmly in control on the home front....That'll teach her all right !!! For my key / lock problem in the Audi, it was comparatively easy to take the lock out, strip it down and get at the micro switch. A good clean, re-assembly, re-fit and it worked fine, Its well documented in any case, as it's a problem in VAG cars, But MB are a different kettle of fish,,,,personally, I can't help as I've never done one, but I'm pretty sure that some one here on the forum will be able to help? There are lots of very helpful people on here. In any case, let us know how you fared out, OK? Just in case....... and one more tip for you re Trans fluid change.. After I had drained and removed the sump, being extra carefull not to get any fluid on myself, and feeling very self satisfied and competent at doing just that, I lay down under the car to remove the filter, and gently prised it off...and was completely unprepared for the rush of fluid which emerged,,,,,down my hand, arm and past my shoulder,,,,,,. Wont be caught a second time though.. Telling herself that the oil stain might actually help lubricate the washing machine, but to be on the safe side,,,,not to wash it with any other stuff. She remains unconvinced by the way..
( before removing it, mark two arrow's on the filter body, and a corresponding mark's on the housing, so it goes back in the same place )
Good Luck with the key issue.