Newbie, E240 3 breakdowns in one day !!!!

[jules_e240]

Hello everyone I'm a virgin Mercedes owner and picked up my new car this morning. Bought at auction so no warranty etc.

It's a 1998 E240 Avantgarde with full MB SH and 123K.

So, first the battery went, the AA started me and I visited KwikFit. £100

Then on the motorway the V belt shredded and luckily I caught it and pulled over in time. There was another belt in the boot which the AA man decided was Used but servicable which he fitted by brute force stretching over the top left pulley.

This gave way after another 15 miles So I decided to just get recovered home.

My Questions.

Can someone explain how to fit a V belt correctly in simple terms, I'm not a mechanic but I can follow simple instructions and am technical.

Given that the car was sitting for three months before I bought it, the first belt is excusable, the second belt, could it have been fitted incorrectly and therefore failed, or do I have a bigger problem, alternator, oil pump, or something else about to fail and shredding belts.

I would say that the first belt totally shredded, but the second belt had come off, but was still a band, bar having several chunks out of it.

And finally I have searched and would like some more information on the 'auto tensioner' does it fail much ?

Cheers for any input

Jules

 

[rpe2]

Hello everyone I'm a virgin Mercedes owner and picked up my new car this morning. Bought at auction so no warranty etc.


My Questions.

Can someone explain how to fit a V belt correctly in simple terms, I'm not a mechanic but I can follow simple instructions and am technical.

Given that the car was sitting for three months before I bought it, the first belt is excusable, the second belt, could it have been fitted incorrectly and therefore failed, or do I have a bigger problem, alternator, oil pump, or something else about to fail and shredding belts.

I would say that the first belt totally shredded, but the second belt had come off, but was still a band, bar having several chunks out of it.

And finally I have searched and would like some more information on the 'auto tensioner' does it fail much ?

Cheers for any input

Jules

Certainly sounds like bad luck!

The tensioner can be released by applying a socket to the centre of the pulley, or the bolt cast into the assembly (there are 2 types). Pretty basic, thus unsurprising that the AA tried to stretch it over the pulleys.

Tensioners do fail occasionaly, was the belt or belts that came off oily? I had an almighty oil leak cause the belt to slip off. failing that, take the belt off and check that the pulleys all run smoothly.

Finally, the one pulley you won't be able to check running smoothly is the crankshaft pulley. This has been known to fail, it is assembled in 2 parts stuck together by rubber. Check to see if any rubber is sticking out. Do a search on this forum for 'Harmonic Balancer' I'm sure there is a picture or 2.

Richard

 

[sigman]

maybe battery went because of the first belt not charging it before snapping .
make sure all pulleys are aligned by looking across the engine while its running
look for vibrations also as it may be fitted with a damper .
Paul

 

[jayeastanglia]

check the alternator to see if it spins ok..if its seized it may have broken the first belt and the second.

 

[jules_e240]

Thanks for all the advice, located a local factor selling V-Belts for £10.75 and i'm off to buy two this afternoon.

The AA man said something about a special socket required for insertion into the tensioner in order to turn it, can someone confirm or explain this to me please?

 

[jules_e240]

With reference to this :

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.463&CT=M&cat=19X&SID=13&SGR=135&SGN=05

Which I believe is the correct routing for my car, correct me if I'm wrong, can someone identify each wheel for me so I know what I'm looking for ?

Many thanx

 

[rpe2]

With reference to this :

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.463&CT=M&cat=19X&SID=13&SGR=135&SGN=05

Which I believe is the correct routing for my car, correct me if I'm wrong, can someone identify each wheel for me so I know what I'm looking for ?

Many thanx

The belt routing you have found is correct.

If the pulley is one of the original type, then use a torx socket on the bolt stocking out of the front of the pulley. If it looks like you need a torx bit with a peg in the middle, this is the later type. You will find a 17mm bolt cast into the tensioner just below the pulley. The wheelbrace is ideal for this.

Richard

 

[jules_e240]

Been and had a good look under the bonet this evening.

I have noticed that the viscous fan has a small dent in the area the belt sits on and the next pully to the right of it has a 15mm chunk missing from the front lip.

All pullys bar the crank turn freely with no wobbles.

Would either of the 'blemishes' above be enough to shred another belt ?

I think I found the tensioner, it seems to have a bolt on the left side about the size of a wheel nut, and the centre has an indentation, what method do I use to release the tension on this one, the wheel-brace or the torx ratchet?

Cheers
:-D

 

[rpe2]

Been and had a good look under the bonet this evening.

I have noticed that the viscous fan has a small dent in the area the belt sits on and the next pully to the right of it has a 15mm chunk missing from the front lip.

All pullys bar the crank turn freely with no wobbles.

Would either of the 'blemishes' above be enough to shred another belt ?

I think I found the tensioner, it seems to have a bolt on the left side about the size of a wheel nut, and the centre has an indentation, what method do I use to release the tension on this one, the wheel-brace or the torx ratchet?

Cheers
:-D

If the belt catches on the pulley with the bit missing, it may cuse it to 'throw'. I assume this is the small idler pulley at the top. If so replace it, not too many ££'s.

For the tensioner, use a wheelbrace, if you try to put a torx bit in the middle of the pulley, you will only succeed in undoing the pulley from the tensioner.

Richard

 

[jules_e240]

If the belt catches on the pulley with the bit missing, it may cuse it to 'throw'. I assume this is the small idler pulley at the top. If so replace it, not too many ££'s.

For the tensioner, use a wheelbrace, if you try to put a torx bit in the middle of the pulley, you will only succeed in undoing the pulley from the tensioner.

Richard

the pulley with the bit missing is a large pulley not a small one, but I can turn it by hand so it;s not the crank

 

[jules_e240]

OK, the auto tensioner pully (plastic) has sheared off completely.

How do I either remove what's left of the pully or the complete auto tensioner.

Just come back from MB parts with the wrong part, they've given my the top pully and now they're closed till Monday

They've given me no 5 when I should have got no 23

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.463&CT=M&cat=19X&SID=20&SGR=045&SGN=03

Don't suppose anyone has a no 23 lying around ?

 

[rpe2]

OK, the auto tensioner pully (plastic) has sheared off completely.

How do I either remove what's left of the pully or the complete auto tensioner.

Just come back from MB parts with the wrong part, they've given my the top pully and now they're closed till Monday

They've given me no 5 when I should have got no 23

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.463&CT=M&cat=19X&SID=20&SGR=045&SGN=03

Don't suppose anyone has a no 23 lying around ?

There are 2 torx bolts bolting it to the engine.

When the new tensioner arrives, it will be under tension held by a pin. Bolt the tensioner to the block, put the belt on, remove the remaining tension from the pulle, and remove the pin. Ask the dealer to point out the pin when you pick it up.

It may be easier to remove the old tensioner by removing the pulley from the tensioner assembly first.

Richard

 

[jules_e240]

There are 2 torx bolts bolting it to the engine.

When the new tensioner arrives, it will be under tension held by a pin. Bolt the tensioner to the block, put the belt on, remove the remaining tension from the pulle, and remove the pin. Ask the dealer to point out the pin when you pick it up.

It may be easier to remove the old tensioner by removing the pulley from the tensioner assembly first.

Richard

What tool do I need to remove the pulley from the tensioner, what size of torx is it ? It looks like it needs a bit with a hole rather than a standard torx.

 

[rpe2]

What tool do I need to remove the pulley from the tensioner, what size of torx is it ? It looks like it needs a bit with a hole rather than a standard torx.

I'm unsure of the size of torx bit required, a bit with a hole in the middle should be available hrom Halfords/ motor factors

Richard

 

[jules_e240]

I'm unsure of the size of torx bit required, a bit with a hole in the middle should be available hrom Halfords/ motor factors

Richard

Cheers Richard, gave in and bought a tensioner from MB today £150 inc VAT

Already have the old one off ok, so refitting following your previous advice and leaving the pin in place.

Anyone got any hints and tips to make fitting the belt easier ?

 

[rpe2]

Cheers Richard, gave in and bought a tensioner from MB today £150 inc VAT

Already have the old one off ok, so refitting following your previous advice and leaving the pin in place.

Anyone got any hints and tips to make fitting the belt easier ?

Put the belt around all the pulleys, leaving the alternator until last.

take up the last bit of tension and slip over the alternator, with your 3rd pair of hands then remove the pin and with any luck...

Richard

 

[jules_e240]

Many thanks for all the advice, new tensioner and V-belt fitted, ran for 20 minutes on a fast idle with no apparent problems.

Will nip up to MB 1st thing tomorrow (less than a mile from the house) and ask them to check it over for me.

I found it easier to do everything but the top of the tensioner pulley and pull this on last, then remove the pin.

Some rattle at idle I suspect is coming from the middle pulley which I believe to be the crank ? It's the big one that you can't turn by hand, is this cause for concern ?

And finally, is the harmonic balancer the lower right pulley ?

Cheers Jules

 

[rpe2]

Many thanks for all the advice, new tensioner and V-belt fitted, ran for 20 minutes on a fast idle with no apparent problems.

Will nip up to MB 1st thing tomorrow (less than a mile from the house) and ask them to check it over for me.

I found it easier to do everything but the top of the tensioner pulley and pull this on last, then remove the pin.

Some rattle at idle I suspect is coming from the middle pulley which I believe to be the crank ? It's the big one that you can't turn by hand, is this cause for concern ?

And finally, is the harmonic balancer the lower right pulley ?

Cheers Jules

Good Stuff!

from the link you posted earlier http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp...SGR=135&SGN=05 the pulleys are from left to right:

1. Alternator
2. Water Pump/ Fan
3. Idler
4. Crank
5. Tensioner
6. Air con compressor
7. PAS pump

If your fan is bloted to the water pump, give the blades a gentle rock, if the pulley has play in it, the water pump bearings are on the way out.

Ask MB in the morning to check the crank pulley, as if this fails, it could be game over if the pulley goes through the crankcase.

Richard

 

[jules_e240]

Bollox :sad:

Dorve the car gently for about ten miles and all was fine, had a couple of battery charge warnings when manouvering around Tesco's car park.

As I neared home I opened her up with a blast on the loud pedal and yep you've guessed it, the belt came off.

You've guessed it, I have discovered that my Balancer is no longer in harmony with the flywheel.

Given that these were a recall in the states, and the car has an almost complete MB service history, what chance have I got of Daimler doing this for free ?