Non routine service items that should be routine?

[stargazerplus]

We have two middle aged Mercs that we like to take care of! I drive an S320cdi (01) and the wife has a 98 C240

Both have done about 80000 miles with FMBSH. I would like to know what you would consider to be routine service items but are not on MB's schedule. I have my own opinions but would like to find out what others think. Here goes...

1. Transmission fluid and filter change.

2. Steering damper check and change.

3. Mass airflow change (tho not at Merc prices) at this mileage. Do they improve driveability with a change even though the car seems to be operating within specifications?

4. Harmonic balancer inspection and change... even the newer parts seem to have a service life.

5. Aircon service. Both cars were recently recharged with PAG and R134a. The S class was 150g down on gas and the C class was a massive 275g on gas though both were still working. By the way Kwik Fit are offering a trial service on aircon costing £45, using the latest 2 month old equipment; watched them do it and was impressed.

Any additions or disagreements with this list would be welcome.

 

[Blobcat]

A possible few to add to the list;

1. Pollen Filter
2. Wiper Mechanism Clean and Grease
3. Glow Plugs
4. Diff Oil check
5. Wing mirror spider, check and replace if neccessary

 

[jimsinessex]

High Mileage maintenance

With 145,000 miles since purchased new on my 1999 CLK 230K this is what I do apart from standard services.

ATF - change and clean filter every 50,000

Steering Damper - change if it is leaking, 2 so far, I did not notice any deterioration in the quality of the steering before or after so not critical.

MAF Sensor - clean with Iso Propyl Alcohol at the first signs of a misfire, if it goes into limp mode it may be past recovery in my experience. Replaced one so far.

Air Con - Not regularly serviced as such, condenser (radiator) leaked after 5 years, replaced and system recharged. I leave the air con i/s all year in the belief that the compressor does not like being shut down for 6 months and then restarted. alternatively run it once a month.

Pollen Filter - replaced at 140,000 and was blocked. If heater flow is reduced then replace but not critical.

Wiper - I clean and grease once a year, treat it as important, an easy DIY job and causes so much hassle if it fails.

Diff - I change the oil every 50,000, I am an engineer and hate to think of such a highly loaded unit being ignored. Old fashioned - I plead guilty! Besides if a seal starts weeping un-noticed and oil goes low a new diff costs more than an oil change.

Alternator - Still have the original but may be pushing my luck, brushes don't last forever, just bought a new regulator which contains brushes and will fit as a precaution soonest.

Oil - I believe in fully synthetic for high mileage, Mobil 1 in my case.

I would be interested to hear others views on on preventative maintenance regimes, I don't want the hassle of the " if it ain't broke, don't fix it " approach, that leaves you lurching from breakdown to breakdown as the mileage mounts.

Jim

 

[nickcc101]

Does anyone know where i can buy Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF from. Have tried various diy stores but no joy.

 

[television]

Does anyone know where i can buy Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF from. Have tried various diy stores but no joy.

Its on Ebay and its cheapest at Costo

You can buy it direct from Oppie

 

[allan l]

Stargazerplus,

Do they ever change the Lambda Sensor, Rear Diff oil or the Power Steering oil/filter during any M-B Service ? May be worth looking at.

 

[Dosco]

With 145,000 miles since purchased new on my 1999 CLK 230K this is what I do apart from standard services.

ATF - change and clean filter every 50,000

Steering Damper - change if it is leaking, 2 so far, I did not notice any deterioration in the quality of the steering before or after so not critical.

MAF Sensor - clean with Iso Propyl Alcohol at the first signs of a misfire, if it goes into limp mode it may be past recovery in my experience. Replaced one so far.

Air Con - Not regularly serviced as such, condenser (radiator) leaked after 5 years, replaced and system recharged. I leave the air con i/s all year in the belief that the compressor does not like being shut down for 6 months and then restarted. alternatively run it once a month.

Pollen Filter - replaced at 140,000 and was blocked. If heater flow is reduced then replace but not critical.

Wiper - I clean and grease once a year, treat it as important, an easy DIY job and causes so much hassle if it fails.

Diff - I change the oil every 50,000, I am an engineer and hate to think of such a highly loaded unit being ignored. Old fashioned - I plead guilty! Besides if a seal starts weeping un-noticed and oil goes low a new diff costs more than an oil change.

Alternator - Still have the original but may be pushing my luck, brushes don't last forever, just bought a new regulator which contains brushes and will fit as a precaution soonest.

Oil - I believe in fully synthetic for high mileage, Mobil 1 in my case.

I would be interested to hear others views on on preventative maintenance regimes, I don't want the hassle of the " if it ain't broke, don't fix it " approach, that leaves you lurching from breakdown to breakdown as the mileage mounts.

Jim

Very comprehensive Jim only thing I could add would be a regular visual inspection of the potential rust prone areas perhaps after an annual through underbody clean with a power washer, not being to enthusiastic though with the lance

 

[jimsinessex]

Preventative servicing update

Dosco,

The underbody of the car has stayed very clean without the need to power wash and has shown no serious rust problems as yet. The well known rusting around the wheel arches and door bottoms has occurred and was sorted at my expense. MB have a rigid cutoff date for goodwill of 8yrs and, guess what, I took mine along for assessment at 8 yrs and 1 month! I always jetwash the wheel arches as part of normal body cleaning, a small amount of dirt has accumlated under the wheelarch liners but absolutely no rust. The rusting referred to above was due to paint thickness quality control problems, I believe, and is from the outside inwards.

One spot of rust that may be a type problem was on a bend of the ATF pipe to the cooler at the bottom of the radiator, needs the engine undertray off to see it and was quite severe, I had it replaced at a regular ATF draindown. Curiously the similar return pipe seems unaffected. I believe at least one similar fault has been documented on here somewhere.

To update the reference in my original post about my nervousness regarding the life of the alternator brushes, when I fitted the new regulator containing the brushes the old brushes were still in good shape and would have lasted until 200,00 miles. What look to be copper impregnated brushes seem vastly superior to the old graphite brushes I have needed to change in the past.

I do make a point of keeping the corner recess at the back of the engine bay, near side, by the ECU, cleared of leaves, etc. This area looks like a potential rust trap if neglected and also houses the bottom flap valve for the sunroof drain which will allow water into the interior if blocked. Maplins sell a dinky little flexible grabber which is ideal for winkling leaves, etc, out of awkward nooks and crevices like this.

Jim