OM642 Aluminium charge pipe removal

[Jack_M]

This weekend, I tried to take off this charge pipe by taking off the intake piping, and all the fasteners holding it in place, to no avail!

The charge pipe was weeping a bit of oil, so I wanted to take it off and replace the O-ring. 30+ mins later of trying to jimmy it off, it seems like it doesn't want to go anywhere.

I think both O-rings have now split, it sounds like its leaking charged air, and its also stuttering a little while trying to get on boost, which isn't ideal!

Now, my question is, does anyone have a simple and effective way to take this pipe off?

I've ordered a new set of O-rings and a charge pipe, just in case we have somehow bent the lips either end while trying to jimmy it off.

 

[Wighty]

This weekend, I tried to take off this charge pipe by taking off the intake piping, and all the fasteners holding it in place, to no avail!

The charge pipe was weeping a bit of oil, so I wanted to take it off and replace the O-ring. 30+ mins later of trying to jimmy it off, it seems like it doesn't want to go anywhere.

I think both O-rings have now split, it sounds like its leaking charged air, and its also stuttering a little while trying to get on boost, which isn't ideal!

Now, my question is, does anyone have a simple and effective way to take this pipe off?

I've ordered a new set of O-rings and a charge pipe, just in case we have somehow bent the lips either end while trying to jimmy it off.

So there is a central vertical bolt by the fuel filter and a screw down on he front of the engine , after those 2 are out it’s just a wiggle and pull forwards . (The black plastic pipe needs to be disconnected down on the front of the pipe by the rad) .
At least that was the case with my W211 E320cdi

OM642 egr pipe clean and turbo green and black O ring (and air filters)

Last week I sprayed clean the gunk from the exhaust back pressure sensor and the egr valve itself . After looking at The YouTube the other day I saw someone remove the shiny steel egr pipe that sits at the front of the engine , in the vid it was almost totally gunged up . I figured that seeing...

forums.mercedesclub.org.uk

 

[LostKiwi]

Can't exactly remember but there is a bolt securing it at the front of the engine to the black plastic charge air duct and two on top. There are 2 bolts securing the charge air duct to the front of the engine too. These also need to be removed to allow it to be moved out the way. The charge pipe then comes out forwards. I don't recall it being all that difficult to remove. Getting it back in was fiddly but again not difficult.

Also note that the charge pipe removal is different for 320 (EU4) and 350 (EU5) engines.

This write up looks about right.

14 ML350 Bluetec Fuel Filter/Charge Pipe Removal - MBWorld.org Forums

M-Class (W166) - 14 ML350 Bluetec Fuel Filter/Charge Pipe Removal - Let me start off by saying this task has been discussed in length on the forums, but most are pre-2012 which doesn't have the notch on the turbo charge pipe which forces you to remove it to uncover the filter. I was shocked at...

mbworld.org

 

[Jack_M]

@Wighty & @LostKiwi, thank you, much appreciated!

So, we took off the weird intake pipe that connects the 2 airboxes together and bolts onto the turbo, the central bolt that holds the pipe in place and the little bolt that attaches the pipe to the 'Silencer' black box thingy.

From what you guys are saying, I need to unbolt the black silencer just down from the pipe, by the rad, and that should make things a lot easier.

Looks like it's gunna be a fiddly job, but really needs doing, now that I've got a boost leak hahah.

You know that sickly feeling when you know there's something wrong with your car, especially the engine hahah, hate it!

On the bright side, my car sounds like a big American truck with the turbo whistle , it is a little irritating/embarrassing though :/

I shall send an update once it's done, just in case anyone has or gets the same issue, just waiting for the parts to arrive.

 

[onefortheroad]

@Wighty & @LostKiwi, thank you, much appreciated!

So, we took off the weird intake pipe that connects the 2 airboxes together and bolts onto the turbo, the central bolt that holds the pipe in place and the little bolt that attaches the pipe to the 'Silencer' black box thingy.

From what you guys are saying, I need to unbolt the black silencer just down from the pipe, by the rad, and that should make things a lot easier.

Looks like it's gunna be a fiddly job, but really needs doing, now that I've got a boost leak hahah.

You know that sickly feeling when you know there's something wrong with your car, especially the engine hahah, hate it!

On the bright side, my car sounds like a big American truck with the turbo whistle , it is a little irritating/embarrassing though :/

I shall send an update once it's done, just in case anyone has or gets the same issue, just waiting for the parts to arrive.

Just slacken the bolts in the resonator box there's 2 I think in the face opposite the radiator and one to the left if looking from above . Don't remove them fully, you'll never get them back in . . Screw them out maybe 5mm at most , this will give you enough to push the resonator box forward and the charge pipe back to clear the front end , once out move the charge pipe towards the radiator and lift , this will clear it from the turbo end. Is your om642 the one with the wiring loom in way also ??

Green ring to turbo. Black ring to resonator box .

If your doing this , do the fuel filter at the same time , if your charge pipe has the extra part welded on.

 

[Jack_M]

Just slacken the bolts in the resonator box there's 2 I think in the face opposite the radiator and one to the left if looking from above . Don't remove them fully, you'll never get them back in . . Screw them out maybe 5mm at most , this will give you enough to push the resonator box forward and the intercooler pipe back to clear the front end , once out move the intercooler pipe towards the radiator and lift , this will clear it from the turbo end. Is your om642 the one with the wiring loom in way also ??

Green ring to turbo. Black ring to resonator box .

If your doing this , do the fuel filter at the same time , if your charge pipe has the extra part welded on. View attachment 91416

You're a star, thank you for your insight!

That's a brilliant idea, I'll make sure I don't totally undo the bolts.

To answer your question, no, luckily the harness isn't in the way.

I do have a new fuel filter to pop in as well, good shout!

Green and Black O-rings have been ordered, I shall remember the placement, thank you again, massive help!

 

[onefortheroad]

You're a star, thank you for your insight!

That's a brilliant idea, I'll make sure I don't totally undo the bolts.

To answer your question, no, luckily the harness isn't in the way.

I do have a new fuel filter to pop in as well, good shout!

Green and Black O-rings have been ordered, I shall remember the placement, thank you again, massive help!

Took me about 2 hours . One hour of that was trying to loosen the bolt in the box , pita . As it turns out the bolt to the left ,once loose , the whole resonator box tilts enough to make room . The skin has returned to my knuckles .

 

[Wighty]

You're a star, thank you for your insight!

That's a brilliant idea, I'll make sure I don't totally undo the bolts.

To answer your question, no, luckily the harness isn't in the way.

I do have a new fuel filter to pop in as well, good shout!

Green and Black O-rings have been ordered, I shall remember the placement, thank you again, massive help!

While you are deep into the top of the engine and talking of whistling sounds check that the orange turbo seal is seated correctly on the front of the turbo where it meets the black air intake “batwing” .

 

[Jack_M]

Took me about 2 hours . One hour of that was trying to loosen the bolt in the box , pita . As it turns out the bolt to the left ,once loose , the whole resonator box tilts enough to make room . The skin has returned to my knuckles .

Brilliant, that bodes well hahah, thank you!

 

[Jack_M]

While you are deep into the top of the engine and talking of whistling sounds check that the orange turbo seal is seated correctly on the front of the turbo where it meets the black air intake “batwing” .

Very true, we did take that off lastnight, I will quickly check it on my lunch break as its fairly accessible on my engine. Could easily be the cause of the whistling!

 

[Wighty]

Very true, we did take that off lastnight, I will quickly check it on my lunch break as its fairly accessible on my engine. Could easily be the cause of the whistling!

Renew the orange seal every couple of years (or every time they are removed )

 

[onefortheroad]

While you are deep into the top of the engine and talking of whistling sounds check that the orange turbo seal is seated correctly on the front of the turbo where it meets the black air intake “batwing” .

It's surprisingly easy getting the batwing on , with the new style om642 without disturbing the orange seal. Those air boxes at the sides were a pita . Not now

 

[Jack_M]

Renew the orange seal every couple of years (or every time they are removed )

Ohh okay, is this the one?

 

[Jack_M]

It's surprisingly easy getting the batwing on , with the new style om642 without disturbing the orange seal. Those air boxes at the sides were a pita . Not now

Yeah we struggled with the batwing connectors lastnight hahaha

 

[Wighty]

View attachment 91420

Ohh okay, is this the one?

You see there are small round protrusions and square ones as well on the large seal in the picture , mine only has the round bits . You have to look carefully at yours to see which ones it has (there is also a part number on it )

 

[Jack_M]

You see there are small round protrusions and square ones as well on the large seal in the picture , mine only has the round bits . You have to look carefully at yours to see which ones it has (there is also a part number on it )

Lovely, thank you, will do!

 

[onefortheroad]

Lovely, thank you, will do!

Easy to put it on the wrong way round also. Check the one that's on beforehand. It's also different part for the 350

 

[Jack_M]

Back from lunch, that seal is all good, fits nice and snug, I don't see an issue there. Re-connecting the batwings to the airboxes on the other hand... I'd love to meet the engineer who came up with the design, so that I could clunk him round the head.

 

[onefortheroad]

Back from lunch, that seal is all good, fits nice and snug, I don't see an issue there. Re-connecting the batwings to the airboxes on the other hand... I'd love to meet the engineer who came up with the design, so that I could clunk him round the head.

Yes it's a 3 way tug of war . The whole thing was updated though eventually. So much easier now .

 

[Jack_M]

Yes it's a 3 way tug of war . The whole thing was updated though eventually. So much easier now .

The turbo inlet slipped in lovely, the passenger side connector wasn't too bad, but bugger me, the driver's side just kept rolling back on itself underneath! Oh well, I think its back on properly, no great way to tell if underneath is properly on, but to me, it looks okay hahah