Q' about the windows on a 124 coupe.

[rowland75]

Hey guys..

Being that the weekend was hot and sunny, I made use of the pillarless effect on my E class coupe.

Slightly embarrassingly, when I parked up with new girlfriend in the passenger seat.... pressing the buttons to raise the windows and close the roof...... they all stopped!!!

After a bit of disruption to the day, I found it was down to a blown fuse in the relay beneath the fuse box.

Has this happened to anyone else and why would it happen???

Cheers

Pete

 

[Xtractorfan]

New Girlfriend too hot?

 

[Xtractorfan]

Someone will be along soon to cool her down.......

 

[television]

Do them one at a time and not all together, the loading is too much

 

[rowland75]

Ha ha thanks guys....


I thought that it may have been too much load. Is a 30A fuse the correct one for the relay?

What happens if you have a full closure central locking system fitted?

Cheers

Pete

 

[television]

Ha ha thanks guys....


I thought that it may have been too much load. Is a 30A fuse the correct one for the relay?

What happens if you have a full closure central locking system fitted?

Cheers

Pete

I cant answer the fuse size, modern full closure systems work on a different principle

 

[turnipsock]

It may be something is getting sticky and loading up the electrics. Do them one at a time and see if a fuse pops.

30A seems a bit heavy.

 

[rowland75]

To be honest, I only had a 25A fuse available so I plugged that in and havent changed it yet.

Nothing seems to be sticking other than the passenger window is slightly slower than the others, but I put that down to the car getting older and the motor slowing a bit.

As long as its nothing serious Im happy.

 

[124coupe]

You should have a fuse schematic stuck on the underside of the fuse box lid. The layout varies with options and some models have a second smaller box adjacent to the main one.

My E320 coupe has 2 fuses for the windows (front left and rear right and then front right and rear left) - both are 16A. You might be risking your wiring insulation if "someone" tried to hide a duff window by upping the fuse rating.

Convenience close/open moves them all together (assuming you have it - mine does).

Dry silicone lubricant (Google it) works well in the window channels to reduce friction and therefore lower the motor loading.

If that doesn't fix it, next step is to measure the current draw while you operate each window (at the fuse) and investigate the one with the high number.

Sometimes the mechanism in the door partly seizes and some PTFE spray will bring it back life - accessible once the door card and the platic liner are removed.

Otherwise a new winder isn't too dear but its also not the most pleasant job! (but neither is driving home in the rain with the window(s) down!).