Senior Members input Plz - Intermittent shake, engine light and Eco start disable

[ishtiaqamed]

Dear All

Kindly advise on your thought on the following symptoms...

Car - C200 - 2015 - Mileage 50,000 - Petrol - Purchased under a year ago from Sytner UK and Service B - Major was carried out at the time.

The car shake/vibrate/wobble intermittently for 2-3 seconds approximately once in two weeks on average. The car may be idle in N mode or Driving anything from 10mph to 70 mph when this behavior will be observed. The Engine Maintenance Light will come up on dashboard and the Eco Start/Stop A sign (stays mostly in Amber color) will disappear from dashboard.

After switching off the car, the Eco Start/Stop A sign will reappear (Amber color) however the Engine Maintenance Light may disappear or stay for a day or days however will eventually clear itself.

A local mechanic checked the car and advised on Nitrogen Sensor replacement when I took the car for inspection for Engine Maintenance Light. The light cleared itself and may be it was the injector cleaner that cleared it.

I dont know when was the car battery replaced last or it may or may not need replacement now.

Currently, there are no light on dashboard and the car is running fine waiting for the next shakep/vibrate/wobble...

Please advise on possible causes and tips to pin point the issue and fix it. Thanks

 

[tpn]

Very hard to even guess not to mind diagnose from a distance. What codes did your mechanic get?

A multitude of things can cause your symptoms, including
clogging air filter, dirty mass air flow sensor (MAF),

clogged fuel filter,

fuel pump malfunction, faulty oxygen sensor,

dirty throttle body, defective spark plugs.

A faulty throttle position sensor (TPS), bad ignition coils, dirty fuel injectors etc etc.

Start with the simple things, spark plugs, coil packs. MAF sensor.-clean it. fuel filter.

Since the last petrol Mercedes I owned was a 1975 W114, I am not very familiar with your car, so just guessing...then again the stop/start light disappearing

 

[ishtiaqamed]

Very hard to even guess not to mind diagnose from a distance. What codes did your mechanic get?

A multitude of things can cause your symptoms, including
clogging air filter, dirty mass air flow sensor (MAF),

clogged fuel filter,

fuel pump malfunction, faulty oxygen sensor,

dirty throttle body, defective spark plugs.

A faulty throttle position sensor (TPS), bad ignition coils, dirty fuel injectors etc etc.

Start with the simple things, spark plugs, coil packs. MAF sensor.-clean it. fuel filter.

Since the last petrol Mercedes I owned was a 1975 W114, I am not very familiar with your car, so just guessing...then again the stop/start light disappearing

Thanks for the response.

I value senior member guess to hold more weight than newbie expert opinion

The mechanic last checked diagnostic didn't provide any code however he did confirm Nitrogen Sensor need replacement. I am due to see another mechanic this weekend for more diagnostic and will ask for codes too.

I called Mercedes yesterday and they sent me service history - attached. I asked them to advise on battery replacement schedule and they advise on two days response time. Although as you say it could be anything, would you suspect a dying battery may be causing it ? Looking at the service history, it is not clear however I feel the battery was never changed. I have also attach last major service data for info.

 

[Blobcat]

Look on the battery terminal and you’ll see a code of week and year. That will tell you how old your battery is.

A failing battery won’t cause vibrations though

 

[ishtiaqamed]

Look on the battery terminal and you’ll see a code of week and year. That will tell you how old your battery is.

A failing battery won’t cause vibrations though

Thanks Blobcat

12/08/14 is the manufacturing date of the battery. As you say that since it is unlikely to cause the shake/vibration then it doest solve the mystery issue.

 

[ajlsl600]

Dear All

Kindly advise on your thought on the following symptoms...

Car - C200 - 2015 - Mileage 50,000 - Petrol - Purchased under a year ago from Sytner UK and Service B - Major was carried out at the time.

The car shake/vibrate/wobble intermittently for 2-3 seconds approximately once in two weeks on average. The car may be idle in N mode or Driving anything from 10mph to 70 mph when this behavior will be observed. The Engine Maintenance Light will come up on dashboard and the Eco Start/Stop A sign (stays mostly in Amber color) will disappear from dashboard.

After switching off the car, the Eco Start/Stop A sign will reappear (Amber color) however the Engine Maintenance Light may disappear or stay for a day or days however will eventually clear itself.

A local mechanic checked the car and advised on Nitrogen Sensor replacement when I took the car for inspection for Engine Maintenance Light. The light cleared itself and may be it was the injector cleaner that cleared it.

I dont know when was the car battery replaced last or it may or may not need replacement now.

Currently, there are no light on dashboard and the car is running fine waiting for the next shakep/vibrate/wobble...

Please advise on possible causes and tips to pin point the issue and fix it. Thanks

Did you have it on diagnostics to see what comes up code wise. Could be a number of things. But a stored code will help head in likely direction

 

[ishtiaqamed]

Did you have it on diagnostics to see what comes up code wise. Could be a number of things. But a stored code will help head in likely direction

Thanks

The previous mechanic only mentioned Nitrogen sensor need replacement. I have appointment this weekend for diagnostic and will share the details. I think with new car, it is increasingly difficult to diagnose anything without codes.

 

[sausage]

This was not on a Mercedes, but might be relevant:
I have had similar intermittent behavior when a coil pack was failing, also when a timing solenoid was failing. Neither were expensive or complicated to change. It felt like the engine was shaking itself to pieces and sounded like a washing machine with a bag of bolts inside it. It would last a few moments and then back to normal again. Needless to say, straight to dealer on the back of a flat bed and had the bits changed.

 

[ajlsl600]

Diagnostic capability access is now Very often the case. If ur keeping the car and don't like big bills. Get urself icarsoft mb v2 or 3 I use 2 and fine on my cars, then become familiar with it. Depending on ur location someone may be prepared to give u a hand to understand it. The alternative is 100.plus everytime a dealer looks at car.

 

[ishtiaqamed]

Diagnostic capability access is now Very often the case. If ur keeping the car and don't like big bills. Get urself icarsoft mb v2 or 3 I use 2 and fine on my cars, then become familiar with it. Depending on ur location someone may be prepared to give u a hand to understand it. The alternative is 100.plus everytime a dealer looks at car.

This is my first Merc and I had Lexus in the past. You are right that instead of keep going to mechanics, it is better to have one off investment to help at initial screening purposes of issues.

Am I better off to source icarsoft mb v2 from their website or there are other options/websites to get a better deal ? I'll probably get to know the tool initially from youtuebe and then touch base with someone for better understanding.

Thanks

 

[A.J.]

Hi and welcome to the forum, good response you have had so far so I hope you will stay with us and enjoy the forum banter

 

[KennyN]

When buying the code reader consider one that covers most mainstream manufacturers and not just MB , it may be slightly more expensive but it will work on your next / families / friends cars and will be easier to sell on in the future should you get fed up with ICE vehicles and go electric.

K

 

[Headhurts]

Dear All

Kindly advise on your thought on the following symptoms...

Car - C200 - 2015 - Mileage 50,000 - Petrol - Purchased under a year ago from Sytner UK and Service B - Major was carried out at the time.

The car shake/vibrate/wobble intermittently for 2-3 seconds approximately once in two weeks on average. The car may be idle in N mode or Driving anything from 10mph to 70 mph when this behavior will be observed. The Engine Maintenance Light will come up on dashboard and the Eco Start/Stop A sign (stays mostly in Amber color) will disappear from dashboard.

After switching off the car, the Eco Start/Stop A sign will reappear (Amber color) however the Engine Maintenance Light may disappear or stay for a day or days however will eventually clear itself.

A local mechanic checked the car and advised on Nitrogen Sensor replacement when I took the car for inspection for Engine Maintenance Light. The light cleared itself and may be it was the injector cleaner that cleared it.

I dont know when was the car battery replaced last or it may or may not need replacement now.

Currently, there are no light on dashboard and the car is running fine waiting for the next shakep/vibrate/wobble...

Please advise on possible causes and tips to pin point the issue and fix it. Thanks

If you purchased this from main dealer as approved used does it not come with 12 months warranty?

If so take back to Sytner for them to remedy.

Good luck,
Robin

 

[ishtiaqamed]

If you purchased this from main dealer as approved used does it not come with 12 months warranty?

If so take back to Sytner for them to remedy.

Good luck,
Robin

It came with 6 months warrenty and then I renewed it. It remains valid however they mentioned to take the car to any VAT registered centre and they will talk to us and we'll pay them. I tried a local mechanic and he wasnt keen to go through phone calls to get approvals for fix so I tried someone else.

 

[ishtiaqamed]

I checked the car with mechanic and P0339 code Crankshaft position sensor A Circuit Intermittent was reported.

Although the mechanic advised to replace the sensor however reading online, it could be either of the following. So sensor replacement may not fix the problem.

• Damaged crankshaft position sensor
• Damage to the sensor’s connectors
• Damage to the sensor’s wiring harness
• Broken reluctor rings or missing teeth
• Damage caused by a broken timing belt wrapping around the sensor system
• Failed PCM (rare)

How would I rule out what is the root cause so that I could go through a systematic way of isolating the problem and fix it.

 

[Blobcat]

I checked the car with mechanic and P0339 code Crankshaft position sensor A Circuit Intermittent was reported.

Although the mechanic advised to replace the sensor however reading online, it could be either of the following. So sensor replacement may not fix the problem.

• Damaged crankshaft position sensor
• Damage to the sensor’s connectors
• Damage to the sensor’s wiring harness
• Broken reluctor rings or missing teeth
• Damage caused by a broken timing belt wrapping around the sensor system
• Failed PCM (rare)

How would I rule out what is the root cause so that I could go through a systematic way of isolating the problem and fix it.

If it’s under warranty why are you possibly jeopardising that warranty?
If they say “any VAT registered centre”… get it to Mercedes and let them loose on it.

 

[ishtiaqamed]

If it’s under warranty why are you possibly jeopardising that warranty?
If they say “any VAT registered centre”… get it to Mercedes and let them loose on it.

 

[ishtiaqamed]

Thanks Blobcat for your continuous support.

I have copied in the document I hold for the cover. It is Car Care Plan. I am a little confused on your statement "warrenty". You may be refering to the same car care plan. I was told once that the care doesnt carry any manufacturer warrenty any longer and perhaps this is why I was reluctant to visit Merc. Now that you flagged this, I am thinking that although Warrenty may not be valid, under the Car Care Plan, I could still use Merc as a mechanic to solve the problem and get paid through Car Care Plan company.

 

[tpn]

That -attachment- just gives the effective dates, or am I missing something? Read the small print to see what is actually covered, as they advise you.

Mercedes use inductive type sensors- magnet with a coil.

To check the sensor :

(1) connect an insulated wire to each connector on the sensor. switch the Multi tester to AC.
Crank the engine You should have 0.5v

(2) Remove the sensor. Reconnect the harness. Turn on the ignition (do not start the engine) move a large metal bar-spanner perhaps towards and away from the tip of the sensor without touching it -you will feel the magnetic field.
Have a diagnostics such as icarsoft etc connected where it shows RPM.
With the spanner stationery the revs should be at zero. when moving the revs should be between 20 and 100 RPM depending on how well you break the magnetic field.

(3) with sensor removed reattach the insulated jump wires(insulated from each other) attach the multi meter on AC as at 1 move the spanner as at 1.
you should get 0.5v

(4)to check the harness put the multimeter, on DC into the connectors-might be easier to do it from the back of the plug- I am not sure, at this moment, whether the harness is supplying 2.5 or 5v, but if it is supplying voltage in all probability it will be the correct voltage.

Just to add: It is quite a while since I had a petrol Merc so I might be behind the times as regards the modern sensor on a petrol car.

 

[ishtiaqamed]

That -attachment- just gives the effective dates, or am I missing something? Read the small print to see what is actually covered, as they advise you.

Mercedes use inductive type sensors- magnet with a coil.

To check the sensor :

(1) connect an insulated wire to each connector on the sensor. switch the Multi tester to AC.
Crank the engine You should have 0.5v

(2) Remove the sensor. Reconnect the harness. Turn on the ignition (do not start the engine) move a large metal bar-spanner perhaps towards and away from the tip of the sensor without touching it -you will feel the magnetic field.
Have a diagnostics such as icarsoft etc connected where it shows RPM.
With the spanner stationery the revs should be at zero. when moving the revs should be between 20 and 100 RPM depending on how well you break the magnetic field.

(3) with sensor removed reattach the insulated jump wires(insulated from each other) attach the multi meter on AC as at 1 move the spanner as at 1.
you should get 0.5v

(4)to check the harness put the multimeter, on DC into the connectors-might be easier to do it from the back of the plug- I am not sure, at this moment, whether the harness is supplying 2.5 or 5v, but if it is supplying voltage in all probability it will be the correct voltage.

Just to add: It is quite a while since I had a petrol Merc so I might be behind the times as regards the modern sensor on a petrol car.

Thanks TPN

I must say this is fairly in-depth stuff and I am sure it is of great value however it is beyond my level of my understanding. I took @Blobcat opinion and got the car booked with MB for inspection. Their earliest availablity in London was initially Sep however after discussion, I was given first week of Aug. Not it is waiting game for now.