Shakes and vabriations when D engaged and break pushed

MrDaveNowak

New Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2018
Messages
5
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Your Mercedes
E220 2011 2.1 CDI
Hi guys, I have a really flustration problem with my E class. For quite some time now, everytime i start the engine cold and put it into Drive and then press a break (usually when I wait for parking gates to open) I get bad vibrations in my cabin and not only that the whole cabin moves!! It only happens when the car is not on the optimum temperature and I have the Drive selected and I am pressing a break. When I accelarate I can also here quite an unpleasent sounds, slight vibrations but the car sometimes sounds like a truck more then a Merc. I was reccomended to change my torque converter, I did that, change the oil in the transmission and the filter etc. Its still the same.. I read somewhere that it could be the engine mouts? But the car seems to run fine while it's reaching the 90* temp in the engine. Thanks for all your help guys!
 

John Laidlaw

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
Messages
26,377
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9,035
Location
Wirral
Your Mercedes
BMW 530d X Drive Tourer M Sports
Sounds like engine mounts ....
 

peterws1957

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2016
Messages
1,327
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Location
Lancashire
Your Mercedes
sl350 /2004/3.7 and CL65/2009/6.0
Hi guys, I have a really flustration problem with my E class. For quite some time now, everytime i start the engine cold and put it into Drive and then press a break (usually when I wait for parking gates to open) I get bad vibrations in my cabin and not only that the whole cabin moves!! It only happens when the car is not on the optimum temperature and I have the Drive selected and I am pressing a break. When I accelarate I can also here quite an unpleasent sounds, slight vibrations but the car sometimes sounds like a truck more then a Merc. I was reccomended to change my torque converter, I did that, change the oil in the transmission and the filter etc. Its still the same.. I read somewhere that it could be the engine mouts? But the car seems to run fine while it's reaching the 90* temp in the engine. Thanks for all your help guys!
Yes you can throw away shedloads of money by taking to a none specialist and getting the wrong diagnosis. A friend had this on his E class, changed the mounts (which were shot) problem solved. But get a proper inspection first so you're not throwing more money at it.
 


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