SL350 central locking problem

[STEc74]

sent you photo by email,dont know if you got it,
i have re coupled pump to car, seems to be ok,i have protected the sponge whith bubble rap to stop soaking water up.

 

[Dec]

Yes, got it, any more, particularry of the PCB and plug conectors.

Dec
Edit will it now work without blowing a fuse?

 

[television]

sent you photo by email,dont know if you got it,
i have re coupled pump to car, seems to be ok,i have protected the sponge whith bubble rap to stop soaking water up.

This is not a good idea for water will run down the cable into the PSE and it cannot get out at all, you are better of just raising the pump on a 5mm thick non absorbent piece of plastic

 

[drmw]

I covered the underside of the foam block on both of mine with bubble wrap.

It turned up at the edges by about 1" all round.

It had a hole in the middle of the base that conformed with the existing hole in the foam block, so any water coming down could get out, but the foam was raised enough to stop the odd bit on the boot floor contacting the foam.

PSEs are sometimes fussy with cold temperatures. The rotor on the compressor can break up for no obvious reason - it happened on one of mine, the pump was completely dry, but it did happen in very cold weather.

 

[television]

Here is your pump and you can see that water does run down the wires into the connectors, this one is scrap

 

[Dec]

Twistgrips pump attached.

Dec

 

[STEc74]

Yes i thought that myself,will raise it up of floor,i have purchased a car cover .but can`t put it on yet with being icy

 

[STEc74]

Dec cant get photos up just three sqaures with crosses in

 

[Dec]

Refresh this page or leave the forum and come back again, i take it you can see all other picturs in this thread?

Dec

 

[STEc74]

Yes can see other photos,when i click on mine it reads undifined.
Going in for a cuppa and a warm,myfingers and toes feel like ther dropping off catch you later thanks for now.

 

[Dec]

Just leave this site, close the internet and come back on again.

Dec

 

[television]

Well I have no idea what is going on,,, my picture above show the connector on the 230 PSE pump, and you can see where water has gone down the cables into the plug, this is why I say do not wrap the pump up. I have 10 scrap pumps here that I cannot fix.

 

[drmw]

Well I have no idea what is going on,,, my picture above show the connector on the 230 PSE pump, and you can see where water has gone down the cables into the plug, this is why I say do not wrap the pump up. I have 10 scrap pumps here that I cannot fix.

I don't think anyone is arguing that advice Malcolm!

My suggestion was a step on from a straightforward piece of plastic under the foam.

The large size bubble wrap will not have as great an area of contact with the foam as (say) a flat slice of polystyrene tile or solid plastic, so it will allow a notional airflow. Further, if a hole is cut as I mentioned that aligns with the existing hole in the foam block, then drainage is allowed, but still keeping the block off the metal floor.

As you know, the foam is of variable density and the immediate outside/inside surfaces are actually of sufficient impermeability to deflect water, but with the natural movement of the car, as the pump effectively moves about, it will "work" the foam allowing if nothing else, a form of capillary action to take place, actually drawing the water in to the main body of the foam.

If the foam isn't in contact with water underneath, then that cannot happen and if the "insulating" material under the foam has the drainage hole, then water coming down the pipes / cable can drain completely away, rather than (as would happen when the car came out of the factory) accumulating in and about the hole (which is flat against the metal floor, so no drainage path) until the inevitable happens

 

[television]

Yes that will work David the roof/boot does need fixing for the water goes into the connector as you can see in the picture and all the green algae, the water spreads over the PCB on both sides. What happens next is the whole CAN network gets upset as this pump is entirely CAN operated.

You can see where the water has been along the whole length of the PCB by the white rings around the valve coils

 

[STEc74]

I cant undestand why they didn`t put a drain hole under were pump sits,the bubble wrap sounds like a good idea i will cut hole where original hole is and see how that goes,there must be some way of stopping water from running down wires,am thinking on that one.

 

[television]

I cant undestand why they didn`t put a drain hole under were pump sits,the bubble wrap sounds like a good idea i will cut hole where original hole is and see how that goes,there must be some way of stopping water from running down wires,am thinking on that one.

The roof / boot mod in the DIY section by me will fix it for good and it only takes a couple of hours.

I had though of putting a skirt around the cable to the pump to deflect any water, but once I worked out the DIY for it I did not bother

 

[STEc74]

Just read your diy section,my seals dont seem as bad as those, will have to have a closer look, good idea for the future though,just one more thing would disconnecting pump show a malfunction as i have not yet turned ignition on since refitting pump.

 

[television]

A fault code may be stored but that is nothing to worry about and it will affect nothing.

When you roof is down do check the insides of the rubbers on C pillar to see if they are stuck to the metal,, if the are not then seal them with the sealer as in the DIY as that is where most of the water gets in.

You could make a skirt and fit it around the top of the wire going to the pump

Just do one in cardboard and masking tape, the after it has rained you will see if the cardboard gets wet

 

[STEc74]

Thanks TV,Dec,drmw for all your advice and information much appreciated,hope all is ok......Regards Steve.

 

[STEc74]

RE central locking

Got every thing back in ok ,started engine and SRS light on,does it need re setting,what needs to be done to rectify