Sprinter 312 limited revs white smoke with loss of power

[sprinter8954]

Hi all, can anyne shed some light on this one.
I have sprinter 312. 200k miles, been running fine then one day on motorway decided to loose power and wont rev over about 2500 revs.When stopped and revved it sent out lots of white smoke and engine sounded very choked. Turned off and restarted and the fault cleared. Van ran fine for a week then started again and problem became more frequent. It sems now its doing in more or less all the time and turning off and on again does not seem to cure the problem. Its as if the more yu rev the less power you get as your driving. It feels as if the turbo seems to stop working or reduce itself in some way.
I have read a little about number one injector causing a similar fault but wanted to eliminate all possibilities first for obvious reasons (£450 eh eh). Does anyone know if the voltage can be tested while in the in position and if so what it should be so i can check this. Fingers crossed.
Cheers
Mark

 

[Xtractorfan]

Its possible you have a blocked cat ..if such a thing would still be on a 200k sprinter or maybe picked up one along the way..worth a check

 

[oigle]

I would have a good look at your MAF sensor too. Get it checked. Sounds like a typical MAF failure.

 

[sprinter8954]

Hi thanks for the replies. I dont think this van has a cat. 1995/6 year. exhaust has been replaced in the past and cant see one, just the middle and back boxes.With reference to the MAF sensor. Is this the little square thing mounted on top of the intake pipe above the radiator with the little pipe to the underside of it from the intake pipe i think to measure intake pressure? Also is there a test i can be do to varify its falure or is it a case of replacement to elliminate.
Van started ad drove for about 5 miles this morning with no trouble then all of a sudden revs limited to2500 and not much turbo, can just hear it spinning up faintly. Fault then persisted all day no matter how long it was stood and restared.
Cheers
Mark

 

[oigle]

Hi thanks for the replies. I dont think this van has a cat. 1995/6 year. exhaust has been replaced in the past and cant see one, just the middle and back boxes.With reference to the MAF sensor. Is this the little square thing mounted on top of the intake pipe above the radiator with the little pipe to the underside of it from the intake pipe i think to measure intake pressure? Also is there a test i can be do to varify its falure or is it a case of replacement to elliminate.
Van started ad drove for about 5 miles this morning with no trouble then all of a sudden revs limited to2500 and not much turbo, can just hear it spinning up faintly. Fault then persisted all day no matter how long it was stood and restared.
Cheers
Mark

Sorry - don't own a Sprinter so can't identify position of maf sensor. Maybe someone else can. It is an electronic unit, usually inserted in to the inlet air tubing between the aircleaner and the turbo. It would have electrical wiring running to it. Testing is usually the job of a dealer - it requires a computer hookup to see if the proper voltages are being recorded. In Oz, dealers charge around $25 for a scan. Home testing is not really possible.

 

[sprinter8954]

Sprinter 312 limited revs white smoke with loss of power

Hi again All.
Have done some reading on this site and tried to elliminate a few things.
I have checked all the intake pipes for splits and made sure the turbo waste gate is not seized and opporates freely.
Cleaned all electrical connections i can see and seperate under the bonnet and sprayed them with wd40 to make sure no damp is causing a problem. This includes the connectors under the bag near to the ECU. Also checked the ECU connector for damp etc. Checked all the vaccum pipes for splits etc. Replaced a parking light bulb that had failed and removed and cleaned the air temp intake sensor (next to the turbo boost sensor) this has just 2 wires to it.
Have removed the brake light switch as i have read on here about it causing turbo drop out even if checked as ok and checked and cleaned all bulbs in the rear light clusters just in case. None of these bulbs have been replaced prior to the fault so that rules out a wrong bulb scenario.
Have disconected the battery in hope of clearing the ecu fault memory and measured the resistence of the air intake temp sensor and no.1 injector.

Can anyone advise me on the correct readings on these two connectors both resistence wise, and voltage wise when engine is running.

I have only taken resistences up to now as follows
Air intake temp sensor 9.5Kohms
No 1 injector sensor 500 Ohms

Correct opperating voltages from a working van may be handy

Cheers for now, a speedy response from anyone would be appreciated
Mark

 

[phasesonix]

Hi again All.
Have done some reading on this site and tried to elliminate a few things.
I have checked all the intake pipes for splits and made sure the turbo waste gate is not seized and opporates freely.
Cleaned all electrical connections i can see and seperate under the bonnet and sprayed them with wd40 to make sure no damp is causing a problem. This includes the connectors under the bag near to the ECU. Also checked the ECU connector for damp etc. Checked all the vaccum pipes for splits etc. Replaced a parking light bulb that had failed and removed and cleaned the air temp intake sensor (next to the turbo boost sensor) this has just 2 wires to it.
Have removed the brake light switch as i have read on here about it causing turbo drop out even if checked as ok and checked and cleaned all bulbs in the rear light clusters just in case. None of these bulbs have been replaced prior to the fault so that rules out a wrong bulb scenario.
Have disconected the battery in hope of clearing the ecu fault memory and measured the resistence of the air intake temp sensor and no.1 injector.

Can anyone advise me on the correct readings on these two connectors both resistence wise, and voltage wise when engine is running.

I have only taken resistences up to now as follows
Air intake temp sensor 9.5Kohms
No 1 injector sensor 500 Ohms

Correct opperating voltages from a working van may be handy

Cheers for now, a speedy response from anyone would be appreciated
Mark

Hi,

Did you find out what the problem was?

I have the same problem.

The connectors under the bag by the battery were corroded badly so badly I have wired it with block connecters now.

Let me know,

Thanks,loz

 

[television]

Loz you would be better off creating a new post on your fault

 

[phasesonix]

Hi again All.
Have done some reading on this site and tried to elliminate a few things.
I have checked all the intake pipes for splits and made sure the turbo waste gate is not seized and opporates freely.
Cleaned all electrical connections i can see and seperate under the bonnet and sprayed them with wd40 to make sure no damp is causing a problem. This includes the connectors under the bag near to the ECU. Also checked the ECU connector for damp etc. Checked all the vaccum pipes for splits etc. Replaced a parking light bulb that had failed and removed and cleaned the air temp intake sensor (next to the turbo boost sensor) this has just 2 wires to it.
Have removed the brake light switch as i have read on here about it causing turbo drop out even if checked as ok and checked and cleaned all bulbs in the rear light clusters just in case. None of these bulbs have been replaced prior to the fault so that rules out a wrong bulb scenario.
Have disconected the battery in hope of clearing the ecu fault memory and measured the resistence of the air intake temp sensor and no.1 injector.

Can anyone advise me on the correct readings on these two connectors both resistence wise, and voltage wise when engine is running.

I have only taken resistences up to now as follows
Air intake temp sensor 9.5Kohms
No 1 injector sensor 500 Ohms

Correct opperating voltages from a working van may be handy

Cheers for now, a speedy response from anyone would be appreciated
Mark

Hi,

It's worth having a local garage with diagnostic equipment to plug it in and see if any fault codes come up. I got mine plugged in and was suprised how much info was stored on it especisally for an older van.

Mine said the Advance solenid valve is faulty on the injector pump which I'm waiting for a new one to arrive.
If yours turns out to be the same you can take it off the pump with out taking the pump off.(I took the starter off and did it from under neath)

Loz

 

[steve6244]

Hi, a few years ago i had a 1998 210 sprinter with very similar fault. It had done 178000 and computer analysis code showed a pump failure. Tried a second hand pump but no joy, turns out pumps are coded to vehicle. £1200 later and a new pump van up and running okay. As i use the van daily and cover 45000 miles a year sold it and brought new generation 311 sprinter, truly a joy to drive and superb handling for a van.

 

[Kenn310D]

[/QUOTE]Can anyone advise me on the correct readings on these two connectors both resistence wise, and voltage wise when engine is running.

I have only taken resistences up to now as follows
Air intake temp sensor 9.5Kohms
No 1 injector sensor 500 Ohms

Correct opperating voltages from a working van may be handy

Cheers for now, a speedy response from anyone would be appreciated
Mark[/QUOTE]

I had the very same problem on my sprinter. I replaced a split air pipe and put in a new cpu (borrowed), although this did fix the white smoke it did not fix the lack of power. I changed the injector no.1 and problem solved. Here is the answer you are looking for.

Injector no.1 must read between 950 - 1050 Ohms otherwise it is gone.

I found a new one by going around the scrapies with a voltometer and checking the Ohms myself as they know what to tell you on the phone. I picked up a second had one in good nick for €180

P.S How did you check the wastegate, Magnets?

 

[phasesonix]

Hi again All.
Have done some reading on this site and tried to elliminate a few things.
I have checked all the intake pipes for splits and made sure the turbo waste gate is not seized and opporates freely.
Cleaned all electrical connections i can see and seperate under the bonnet and sprayed them with wd40 to make sure no damp is causing a problem. This includes the connectors under the bag near to the ECU. Also checked the ECU connector for damp etc. Checked all the vaccum pipes for splits etc. Replaced a parking light bulb that had failed and removed and cleaned the air temp intake sensor (next to the turbo boost sensor) this has just 2 wires to it.
Have removed the brake light switch as i have read on here about it causing turbo drop out even if checked as ok and checked and cleaned all bulbs in the rear light clusters just in case. None of these bulbs have been replaced prior to the fault so that rules out a wrong bulb scenario.
Have disconected the battery in hope of clearing the ecu fault memory and measured the resistence of the air intake temp sensor and no.1 injector.

Can anyone advise me on the correct readings on these two connectors both resistence wise, and voltage wise when engine is running.

I have only taken resistences up to now as follows
Air intake temp sensor 9.5Kohms
No 1 injector sensor 500 Ohms

Correct opperating voltages from a working van may be handy

Cheers for now, a speedy response from anyone would be appreciated
Mark

Sfter messing about with mine for a while-I think your problem is the EGR/Wastegate Solenoid(mercedes call it an electric switch)

here's a link but not sure if it is the right part number:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mercedes-Chry...286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:13|39:1|240:1318

looking at the front of the van it's above the exhuast manifold on the left(3 vac pipes going to it)

 

[Quick Silver]

Sfter messing about with mine for a while-I think your problem is the EGR/Wastegate Solenoid(mercedes call it an electric switch)

here's a link but not sure if it is the right part number:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mercedes-Chry...286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:13|39:1|240:1318

looking at the front of the van it's above the exhuast manifold on the left(3 vac pipes going to it)

I had this problem on my 110CDI Vito and it turned out to be blocked vacuum pipe connectors ,they were blocked with carbon . The fault started intermittently then got progressively worse untill the there was no Turbo Boost at all . It is worth checking the BOOST CONTROL UNIT which on a Vito is under the bonnet just beneath the windscreen on the drivers side just below the weatherseal .This is a cheapish item to replace and a 5 minute job to change.

 

[ki_saj_ng]

hello,

did you guys ever get this sorted? having the same problem and could do with the help.

cheers

 

[mario33]

Sfter messing about with mine for a while-I think your problem is the EGR/Wastegate Solenoid(mercedes call it an electric switch)

here's a link but not sure if it is the right part number:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mercedes-Chry...286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66:2|65:13|39:1|240:1318

looking at the front of the van it's above the exhuast manifold on the left(3 vac pipes going to it)

hi mate thanks for that but the link doesnt work was yours a 310 or 312 aswell do you have another link, i was told it was egr valve got that and still the same so just waiting for your reply thanks

 

[mario33]

hello,

did you guys ever get this sorted? having the same problem and could do with the help.

cheers

no still not sorted just want to know what the egr solenoid looks like and then get that and check it, will definetly keep you guys updated either way

 

[mario33]

put it on local garage diagnostic and needle lift sensor came up? what is this and do you think this could be the problem?

 

[sprinternut]

put it on local garage diagnostic and needle lift sensor came up? what is this and do you think this could be the problem?

There's your answer fella...I'm afraid the needle lift sensor is the one in the "master" injector on no1 cylinder. Horrendous expense for these, so I hope you can find a cheap source for replacement.....shame no one has come up with a fix for these...at least you got an answer now tho....

 

[joelp]

HI all. Sorry to resurrect an old thread. Ive been having this same problem for a very long time now. I found that if you only 'pulse' the throttle, ie on and off it every few seconds, it doesnt go into safe mode (at least, i assume its safe mode). I got 15000 miles out of it doing this, and could make it maintain 90mph. Sadly due to the constantly changing pressure, ive now split my second intercooler, so its time i got it properly fixed!

A mechanic told me years ago that the injectors were in a bad state, so this is one likely cause, but i always thought it was the wastegate getting stuck open. It used to make a bad whistling/wooshing noise after a run.

Truth is it had so many fault codes i think he didnt know where to start So it might take 4 injectors, a turbo and a brace of sensors

Anyone have any input on this one?! Cheers.

 

[joelp]

should add, its a facelift 2000 211cdi.