stalling when cold 200T 123 series

[scotty]

Don't know whether anyone has any ideas on my particular problem.
My B reg 200T has developed an annoying habit of stalling until its warmed up. It starts fine but then the tickover gets progressively more lumpy until the engine stalls completely. On revving and waiting for warm up it is then fine. It's like the the choke isn't working. Is this possible or is there another reason? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Last winter it was fine by the way.

 

[jaymanek]

Same problem on mine which i sorted a few weeks ago:

Ok there is a vaccuum controlled regulator type thing attached to the side of the carburettor. What happens is, as the revs die, the vaccuum suction gets less and this regulator pushes the accelerator rod down to increase revs, and when revs are high, it backs off the accelerator rod.
Its a circular unit that looks like a mini spaceship with one vaccuum pipe (going to the manifold i think). The mechanism is probably ceased with the weather. Try WD40, if not, take it off from the side of the carb, and spray loads of wd40, leave to soak in and then try freeing the mechanism with some pliers. Youll see what i mean when you get there, i hope!

Actually on mine this unit was missing as some idiot cowboy mechanic thought it wasnt important after he rebuilt the engine years ago. Took me a while to figure out why it kept dyeing!

Almost certain thats ure problem, do not mess around with carb settings as youll prob just end up making it worse.

Hope this helps

Jay

 

[Andy]

Hi

I would think that the reason for the vehicle dieing is that the choke mechanism is either stuck or worn out, or even coming off the choke to early and its too weak. On the carburettor on the side with the choke on. You will find if its still there a white plastic cover. A thin strip of plastic. Underneath you will see a little rod. A arrow is close by moulded into the casting. I think (from memory) the arrow shows you which way the choke is on. When cold press the throttle fully down this should operate the choke mech. The idle speed should be somewhere around 1800rpm this will come of on to second stage around 11-1200rpm. Then when hot 8-900 rpm all rpm's out of gear. If its stalling you will see the rod has moved well before the vehicle is hot.

The way to set it up is. (When engine is hot these adjustments are carried out) 1st get a small electrical screwdriver. Operate the throttle to max opening (engine off I don't want you to blow it up!) flip the little rod over in the direction of arrow. Start engine. Increased rpm should be apparent. You will find two screws which adjust the idle one is for choke & the other is for normal idle. I can never remember which is which. But half a turn of each will tell you which to move. Adjust the idle to 1800 rpm. When you then blip the throttle it should drop to 2nd stage. Around 11-1200rpm. Then a final blip it should run at normal idlel speed. White sticker on front slam panel should tell you most of the stuff you need to know about engine tune specs. If it drops from 1st stage to normal idle then there may be a problem with the choke mech maybe worn. Also if its not clicking on when cold (although I suspect it is from what you say) Then the bi-metalic spring may be worn out. Either way it will take a while to sus out what I am trying to say.

It should be noted these adjustments are carried out after the normal engine tune has been carried out. Making sure the carburettor diapharam is in good order and not streched or holed and the carburettor oil is topped up.

The saucer shapped object I think Jaymanek is reffering to is. Is the idle compensater which stop the engine from stalling when putting into gear. The rpm should be 600rpm when in gear.


Good luck

Regards

Andy @ www.mercedesservicing.com

 

[scotty]

Thanks for the advice guys,
I have looked at the vacuum idle control thingy and its not that so I'll have a go at Andy's suggestions regarding the choke mechanism. The fact that it starts fine then deteriorates progressively suggestes to me that that the choke is coming off too early. I'll let you know how I get on.
Thanks again
Paul

 

[scotty]

Hello everyone

I've looked at the carb and all I can see is that the throttle cable is connected via a series of rods to a banana shaped piece of white plastic on the side of the carb. This I presume operates the choke mechanism in the carb body. I think that the choke mech must be worn out(as the engine rapidly dies after starting and there is no power i.e. air is still getting in during cold start) but how can I tell? The plastic banana rod returns to its original position immediately after start up.
Do I have to take the Carb apart? and is the repair easy or will it require a new Carb?

I also have another problem with the car and it is that I have for some time not had first gear. All other gears are O.K. I have a slight oil leak from the gearbox but keep topping up. I find it very difficult to measure the gear level during engine running in P so am not sure if the lack of first could be due to lack of oil!

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Cheers

Scotty