Upgrading 2003 CLK audio/phone

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Many thanks yup it's defo a 209 and pretty sure the Can bus to the head unit is a twisted pair, but could be wrong. Most of the test/varations/trails all point to the pair of wire that are connected by an iso.

I've put all the original audio 10 back in and all works fine...

Erisin are going to ship a new unit... I'm just worried that I am not understanding somthing obvious and dredding them sending a new unit and ending up with the same problems :eek:
 

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A 2003 CLK will definately not be a facelifted version. The facelift came in model year 2005 which first appeared mid way through 2004.
 
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Thanks for clearing that up mate, out of interest what's the difference "called" between thease 2 types attached (I used to have the older one and now have the newer one), Appologies if it's a dumb question.
 

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Well some great news... Replaced the unit and hey presto all works as expected.... Big thank you to everyone's input and help especially @AnthonyUK for you patience, multiple posts and spot on advice :geek:
 

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Thanks for clearing that up mate, out of interest what's the difference "called" between thease 2 types attached (I used to have the older one and now have the newer one), Appologies if it's a dumb question.
The older one is a 208 and the newer is a 209, you then have pre and post facelifts of both models, as Alfie mentioned the 209 had a facelift in around 2004/5
 
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The older one is a 208 and the newer is a 209, you then have pre and post facelifts of both models, as Alfie mentioned the 209 had a facelift in around 2004/5

Thanks guys makes sense now.. Really helpful.

Now onto the fitting of the backup cam and a budget upgrade to the speakers.

Cam was going well just can't find the correct place to tap into a 12v feed in the boot.

Thanks again for all the support this group has kept my interest in tinkering with my new toy and enjoying learning new skills.
 

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Cam was going well just can't find the correct place to tap into a 12v feed in the boot.

I'm not sure you need one as it is possible to send the 12v feed over the coax which I think is how mine worked.

The cable looks like this one.

61FkxuWd1AL._SY355_.jpg
 
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I'm not sure you need one as it is possible to send the 12v feed over the coax which I think is how mine worked.

The cable looks like this one.

61FkxuWd1AL._SY355_.jpg

Thanks mate, I was trying to start out wireless then when I find / fit speakers \ amp run the wires but perhaps it's best to dive right in with the "electric string" mentioned earlier. I can then take the feed straight from the head unit cables.

I've got a fuse tap comming today I'm hoping if I have understood correctly from other posts here I can grab a 12v feed off the rear Sam just double checking whats the best one to tap into. If that doesn't work or feels to complex I'll "man up" and run the rca / power lead
 
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Well after a bit of fiddling and trial and error the reversing cam is in and working with the wireless.

Had a bit of trouble working out which fuse to tap in to but got there in the end. (I wanted to use the park tronic 13, but I think the cam was drawing too much) after a bit of trial and error went with fuse 20 which is only live when the ignition is on (was worried about battery drain)

TBH with all the faffing around I did to get the wireless version working I probably would have been better going the wired route and burrowing through the trims etc. Might still do that when/if I get to a speaker upgrade (seen a couple of full sets bose/hk but only from us/de)

Now onto fitting the DAB which seems very fiddly.

Anyone know if you can use the 2nd airel with the small smb (that was used in the old Audio 10 now redundant with the new HU) be reporposed with a converter to save trying to stick another one in?

Many thanks
 

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Many thanks, looks like a good option although my FM reception is not that great either so might try the amped version when I'm back. Will let you know how I get on.
 

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