Urgent help required with auto box on w210

lyndonri

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Please can someone help URGENTLY with this one! My W210 300TD will only pull away and stay in what seems to be 2nd gear. I am assuming it's 2nd - it's revving at 3,000 at 30mph and 4,000 at 40mph. I have had this problem before once or twice but after turning the engine off and restarting, it used to be OK. Now it's not! I've just had it back after 2 weeks from an engine rebuild and while it was there I asked them to check it. They could not find any problems and it was also checked on the computer diagnostics. Now the problem's back and won't go away.

I need to drive to West Wales tomorrow morning, and I was hoping somebody could suggest a simple solution - if there is one...

Any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks

Lyndon
 

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Are you sure that the MAF filter is not faulty, try unplugging it and see how it goes.
 

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Go to our DIY section and there is an article on how to clean it, it is the same car as yours in the photo's, just unplug it and try the car
 
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lyndonri

lyndonri

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Hi Malcolm

I unplugged it and the car ran the same: no gear change, 30k at 30mph and 40k at 40mph

Seemed to pull away a little sharper though from stationary

Lyndon
 
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lyndonri

lyndonri

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Do I need to do a full clean of the MAF or is it likely to be something else? I gave it a general wipe inside but I have no cleaning fluids.
 

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This does get hard sometimes, the MAF is responsible for 75% of these faults clean does help sometimes, it does appear that it is not doing much, it does put the car into the limp home mode that you have. It controls the engine management.

A low voltage bettery can also cause this when the standing voltage is below 11volts

Its either you try and clean or replace the MAF or it means going to the dealer and having a fault code read out. The MAF is much cheaper from Bosch
 
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lyndonri

lyndonri

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I will try a proper clean out. What does the metal grid actually do? Does it carry electrical current? What cleaning fluids can I use? Meths, white spirit, turps - or just IPA?

Thanks for your sound advice Malcolm
 

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I will try a proper clean out. What does the metal grid actually do? Does it carry electrical current? What cleaning fluids can I use? Meths, white spirit, turps - or just IPA?

Thanks for your sound advice Malcolm
the grid is only to stop debris from falling in IPA is the best, the glass sensor type do not clean as well as the hot wire earlier types
 
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lyndonri

lyndonri

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I have put this info here from another thread to keep it up to date

*****************************************
My car is now back on the road! New injector pump, new control plate on the valve block, new aux belt tensioner and pulley, new alternator clutch and a few other bits and bobs. Car runs lovely now, and has started without fault. One small issue though... the engine sounds a bit noisy - I believe it's the lifters tapping away. A bit annoying as after all the cash I've spent on the car recently, I would like to have a 'quiet' running engine.

Is there any benefit to replacing the lifters other than noise reduction?

****************************************
 

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Well, it was worth doing in the end, at least you will get many more years out of it, hopefully
 

Parrot of Doom

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I'd be more inclined to look at the injectors rather than tappets etc. Hold your finger against the injector lines, see if you can feel any knocking.
 
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lyndonri

lyndonri

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All the injectors were refurbished when I had the 'top end' overhaul. Compared to other diesels, it just seems to rattle more. Having spent in excess of 3k on the car recently, I am loathed to spend more if it's not 'hurting' the car.
 
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lyndonri

lyndonri

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mmm... doesn't sound like that - wish it did though!

Can the lifters be adjusted? I'm only concentrating on these as I can't believe that the other elements of the engine are at fault after the 3 weeks of the car being at the indie!

It's definitely more quiet when revved a bit
 

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No they cant be adjusted
 

OlafMaxwell

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This problem sounds like the servo/shifter in the transmission, been there and the symptoms match exactly. Car will go max 40mph!! It nees to be replaced unfortuantely but its not madly expensive. If it was the MAF it feels like the turbo is out but you will still change gear.
 

mattkh

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Hold your finger against the injector lines, see if you can feel any knocking.

Hi
How interesting. Can you elaborate on that a bit please.
Would a stethescope show up anything?

Cheers in advance,
 

Parrot of Doom

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If the injector is knocking, you'll feel it quite easily on the injector line.

Its very obvious when only one is doing it. It's like finding a pulse.
 
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lyndonri

lyndonri

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Perhaps they upset the delivery valves on the pump, or tried to adjust the timing on the pump. The only noise mine makes is from one knocking injector at idle.

This is what mine sounds like:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tom.jeffs4/om606 engine running.wma

I've recorded my engine and here's the link: http://www.box.net/shared/asxn8hfte7

Hope it's clear enough to work out the main issues. The car has been performing faultlessly, starting everytime and running well. It's just the noise now...
 

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