Used care purchase - In what order?

Timeandleisure

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I will never forget the time I bought my first MB.......

Actually, its a hazy memory at best as it was just over 14 years ago, hence I would greatly appreciate your expertise and advice in how to go about buying another used MB please.

I have researched and researched but the order in which to do things fails me, especially with the covid accommodations that are in place now. I would prefer to visit the dealership rather than conduct business over the phone/email. I had a look on the forum and noted the wealth of information but cannot work out the order in which to do things. Therefore, I am seeking, with your knowledge and advice, to consolidate all the aspects and derive a check list of what to do and in what order.

I am looking for a 2020 plate and although the dealership would completed its own checks, might it still be worth a third party check and when should it be conducted, during the viewing, after laying down a deposit?

One issue that I see is sometimes the number plate is displayed and others not. Without this, can a vin be found and what online pre-checks that can be done and what would be the best websites?

When financing, does this need to be in place prior to initial viewing. If it isn't then one might miss out on the car? If buying cash, are the only haggle options price as there should be no fees (right?).

Its probably a bit too much, but just a general idea of what ducks need to be in a row before, during and after would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance!
 

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I'd make a list of your requirements then search auto trader etc for suitable vehicles. I'd ignore most of the description and ascertain by the pictures that it has the spec you desire.
I'd then arrange to go and look at it in the metal.
As you're looking at 2020 models they're still under the 3 year Mercedes warranty so low risk to you.
 
OP
Timeandleisure

Timeandleisure

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Wow! Thank you for your super quick advice Blobcat.
I have three potentials but only two are at dealerships, My thinking is that they should be ok and as you say, they have three years MB warranty. There is also the 28 day return aspect should anything go wrong.
Where I fall down is that is it usual business to put down a deposit with the rest upon delivery or driving off of the forecourt? Can I secure with a refundable deposit whilst I get my financing in order, should I not wish to use MB financial services? In other words can I bagsie it?
 

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Wow! Thank you for your super quick advice Blobcat.
I have three potentials but only two are at dealerships, My thinking is that they should be ok and as you say, they have three years MB warranty. There is also the 28 day return aspect should anything go wrong.
Where I fall down is that is it usual business to put down a deposit with the rest upon delivery or driving off of the forecourt? Can I secure with a refundable deposit whilst I get my financing in order, should I not wish to use MB financial services? In other words can I bagsie it?
I’ve be never put a deposit down before testing a car. I know the second hand car market is quite volatile at the moment with very strong pricing. I’d still not commit before being sure though. Once a car dealer gets your money they’re very reticent to let it go…

I’d also check what finance you can get ahead of a trip with one of the comparison sites. I’ve never found MB competitive when buying :(
 

Wearsafoxhat

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You could put down a deposit with MB, in fact they will probably require one, £1000 I guess. Fully refundable but do ask first.

Regarding MB finance, I got a far better deal by initially taking their finance, you can pay this off within 14 days.
A bargain if you intend to pay cash in the first place, but again a quick check..


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AMGeed

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^ You are free to choose whichever method suits you best to finance your car although the dealer will push you to choose Mercedes finance naturally.
A refundable holding deposit should secure the car whilst you arrange your own finance.
Whilst looking at any car you like, take a photo of the Vin# which you can find on the A pillar inside the drivers door, or on the plate in the lower n/s of the windscreen.
To find all the options fitted, enter the Vin' into a decoder like this one

The dealership should have a copy of the service history.
 

Misterdog

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Last VIN gives more detail than the official OASIS report from MB.. o_O

Simple things like the gearbox code, not on the OASIS.

OASIS says, transmission type - Manual.
Last VIN says - Transmission 716525 01 385931. ( they assume you know from the sticky out thing that it is a manual shift)

The latter being far more useful on WIS where there are multiple transmission types.

- Like :)
 

AMGeed

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Last VIN gives more detail than the official OASIS report from MB.. o_O

Simple things like the gearbox code, not on the OASIS.

OASIS says, transmission type - Manual.
Last VIN says - Transmission 716525 01 385931. ( they assume you know from the sticky out thing that it is a manual shift)

The latter being far more useful on WIS where there are multiple transmission types.

- Like :)
You can also crosscheck the datacard details on the official MB epc decoder.

@Blobcat , if posting that link is verboten, please delete and accept my apology.
 
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Timeandleisure

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I’ve be never put a deposit down before testing a car. I know the second hand car market is quite volatile at the moment with very strong pricing. I’d still not commit before being sure though. Once a car dealer gets your money they’re very reticent to let it go…

I’d also check what finance you can get ahead of a trip with one of the comparison sites. I’ve never found MB competitive when buying :(
Thank you for your sage advice. I have been monitoring the situation was close onto a year now and as you say MB interest rates have been rising. I had thought to use this as one of my haggling options, but they are just so off the mark now that any negotiation to pre-Brexit rates would be too big a leap and therefore, fruitless....
 
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You could put down a deposit with MB, in fact they will probably require one, £1000 I guess. Fully refundable but do ask first.

Regarding MB finance, I got a far better deal by initially taking their finance, you can pay this off within 14 days.
A bargain if you intend to pay cash in the first place, but again a quick check..


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That's interesting and thank you. My understanding then is that I should check if there are any penalties associated with early settlement and if none, negotiate on price and interest rate and then settle early.
 
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Timeandleisure

Timeandleisure

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^ You are free to choose whichever method suits you best to finance your car although the dealer will push you to choose Mercedes finance naturally.
A refundable holding deposit should secure the car whilst you arrange your own finance.
Whilst looking at any car you like, take a photo of the Vin# which you can find on the A pillar inside the drivers door, or on the plate in the lower n/s of the windscreen.
To find all the options fitted, enter the Vin' into a decoder like this one

The dealership should have a copy of the service history.
Thank you very much! I think I need to strike whilst the iron is hot and see if I can put down a holding deposit if its to my liking after inspection and a test drive. I will also look up the VIN when I see the car in person.
 
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Last VIN gives more detail than the official OASIS report from MB.. o_O

Simple things like the gearbox code, not on the OASIS.

OASIS says, transmission type - Manual.
Last VIN says - Transmission 716525 01 385931. ( they assume you know from the sticky out thing that it is a manual shift)

The latter being far more useful on WIS where there are multiple transmission types.

- Like :)
Thank you for your advice on OASIS, about which I hadn't heard before. From your information I glean that OASIS is the car specification as provided by MB, whereas the VIN is more specific.
 
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You can also crosscheck the datacard details on the official MB epc decoder.

@Blobcat , if posting that link is verboten, please delete and accept my apology.
Thank you for the MB epc decoder information and the other link is lethal... I can feel my pockets getting lighter...:geek:
 

Wearsafoxhat

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That's interesting and thank you. My understanding then is that I should check if there are any penalties associated with early settlement and if none, negotiate on price and interest rate and then settle early.

Absolutely, saved me a fair few pounds.
The MB finance was horrendous but got a good deal because of it.. drove home and paid it off. Had double checked and had 14 days in which to do so..


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The vehicle's date of registration is July 2020 yet the month of DVLA registration is not available... is this usual?
 

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Dreaming of a CL55k - one day maybe....
So a few pointers/

Depending on the APR the dealer may make quite a lot on the finance - this "MAY" enable you to negotiate a better deal than if paying cash. By law, you have 14 days from the date the finance company sign the deal (usually at payout) to pay it off without penalty or charges, plus it will be deleted from your credit file - it's a withdrawal not a "Paid it off". Obviously it's only worth doing that if you NEED finance - but I can guarantee you'll get a better deal in terms of the price of the car using the dealers finance. You can get a loan agreed in principle, use the dealer finance to get a deal then pay the dealer finance off with your loan - but again, only worth it if the loan you get has a lower total rate....

Be realistic. Most dealers can't buy as much stock as they are selling at the mo - so ask for thousands off by all means - but don't expect it - we haven't discounted a car in months!

Ask for things of value to you, that cost them little or nothing if they won't give you money off screen. So ask for the paint and fabric for free, or a much longer warranty or some free services. These cost the dealer very little but are of value to you - so to give you 3 services might cost them £250 but might be worth £700 or so to you.... Warranty they charge £1000 for might only cost them £350 to give away - that kind of thing.

Make sure if they sell the car on "payments" you know the cost too - so many only quote the APR and the monthy and don't show the actual price.

Haggle hard - but do accept at the moment you may not get much off - the used market is mental.!
 
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Timeandleisure

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So a few pointers/

Depending on the APR the dealer may make quite a lot on the finance - this "MAY" enable you to negotiate a better deal than if paying cash. By law, you have 14 days from the date the finance company sign the deal (usually at payout) to pay it off without penalty or charges, plus it will be deleted from your credit file - it's a withdrawal not a "Paid it off". Obviously it's only worth doing that if you NEED finance - but I can guarantee you'll get a better deal in terms of the price of the car using the dealers finance. You can get a loan agreed in principle, use the dealer finance to get a deal then pay the dealer finance off with your loan - but again, only worth it if the loan you get has a lower total rate....

Be realistic. Most dealers can't buy as much stock as they are selling at the mo - so ask for thousands off by all means - but don't expect it - we haven't discounted a car in months!

Ask for things of value to you, that cost them little or nothing if they won't give you money off screen. So ask for the paint and fabric for free, or a much longer warranty or some free services. These cost the dealer very little but are of value to you - so to give you 3 services might cost them £250 but might be worth £700 or so to you.... Warranty they charge £1000 for might only cost them £350 to give away - that kind of thing.

Make sure if they sell the car on "payments" you know the cost too - so many only quote the APR and the monthy and don't show the actual price.

Haggle hard - but do accept at the moment you may not get much off - the used market is mental.!
Thank you MBDevotee, for your very helpful and detailed response. Good tips and I shall certainly be using one or two of those. Just some clarifications please:

1. The model in contemplation is no longer produced and so with only used options left, I assume the tip about the paint and fabric is about when new?

2. If the car is within 3 years of registration, can I purchase an extra year of warranty to tack onto the end of whatever if left on the 3 year warranty, mid warranty?

3. re: 'payments', you are talking about the interest you will have paid during the term right?

Thank you... a little sad at the moment as the one I really wanted, must have been sold today as it is no longer advertised... I knew I should have driven down yesterday... :(

There is another contender, but maybe I will see how the market unfolds in the next week.
 

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When buying a second-hand car I always tell my son to not be swayed by ANYTHING the salesperson says.. If they say "It's daylight outside." Pull back the curtains and check. They want to sell the car and the good salesperson will have the gift of being able to say what you want to hear.

Just tried checking our car's VIN number but.... 'Area searched, no trace' The story of my life :rolleyes:
 

Tony Dyson

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When buying a second-hand car I always tell my son to not be swayed by ANYTHING the salesperson says.. If they say "It's daylight outside." Pull back the curtains and check. They want to sell the car and the good salesperson will have the gift of being able to say what you want to hear.

Just tried checking our car's VIN number but.... 'Area searched, no trace' The story of my life :rolleyes:
Chinese imported copy, could this be the reason you're struggling with MBUX ? :p
 

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