vito 108d timing chain snapped! Please help.

[MB Service Centre]

hi, dont need to take front timing cover off to renew the chain, with the head off you can join the new chain to the old one and turn engine over untill new chain there, then just join them together and crimp ends of chain.

 

[television]

hi, dont need to take front timing cover off to renew the chain, with the head off you can join the new chain to the old one and turn engine over untill new chain there, then just join them together and crimp ends of chain.

He cant,,it all fallen down to the bottom, with the head off it does give more room to get something under the crankshaft

 

[anthony evs]

Hi malcolm and alex,

Malcolm, is there any possibility, in your opinion, where i could thread the timing chain aroiund the system without removing any major parts like the timing cover or the sump.

The link you suppied is superb, looks like the WIS is used to have.

I am going to remove the head tomorrow (weather permitting) and going to see if i can also remove the vaccuum pump to expose the sprocket of the inj pump.

With these items removed, would you think it possible to try to work the chain around the sprockets without anything else removed, maybe once the head is off i`ll abandon it due to damage of the valves / pistones etc... just want to talke in as much info as i can to get a plan of attack once i do start the job.

Thanks MAlcolm and Alex for your help.

Best regards, Anthony.

 

[television]

Yes you will have enough room to push a stiff wire down on side with a loop on the end and pick it up with another on the other side. It was MB Service centers post that it came to light that one could

 

[brianbrian]

Sorry to hear of your problem, the way I am reading, it would be quicker and cheaper to replace the engine, they are about for silly money , what is the mileage on your engine.

 

[anthony evs]

Hi Brian, my engine has covered 140000 miles.

Although, i have had it since 2001 with 72000 miles on the clock, buy i must be really honest, i thought it had covered more, the wear in the gear knob and wheel looked considerable. But it drove really well and i was really happy with how much i paid for it.

I have done about 65000 in it. A guy i know, know a guy who`s got one out of a 208 sprinter, not sure of its age / mileage, i think he said he wants around £150 for it.

How much is silly money in your opinion, and would you happen to know of any.

Thanks Brian

 

[brianbrian]

If you know the bloke your buying it off , I would pay £150.00 and hope it has all the bits around the engine ie, alternator starter motor injectors, all handy for spares, no I do not deal in cars or parts just fiddle with the wifes car and mine, only person I know who does parts on the forum who people are happy with is Robparker123. good luck. Hope this helps

 

[MB Service Centre]

Hi mate, if you can gey that for £150, in my opinion its a no brainer, buy that one and swap the other stuff off yours ie manifold ect and do it that way, as long as the engine is the right one of course.

 

[anthony evs]

OK gents update.....

Removed the head thisafternoon. Examined the head, valves for damage, all ok. Checked the pistons and bores, all ok.

This type of cylinder head has clearance in the event of a timing failure. There are small dome shaped grommets sticking out of the face of the head where the explosion from the firing chamber bursts into the main culinder. The injectors and heater plugs are all located in the explosion chambers and do not protrude at all into the main cylinder area,only these domed shaped distrubuters ( for more of a better word).

Also removed the vaccuum pump to expose the injector sprocket, this all looks ok.

I was hoping to see a timing mark on the sprocket but cannot see anything, which disheartened me alittle thinking about the way to re time the system together after its hopeful repair.

I cannot see any damage to any guides either.

Anyway, that was good news for me.

I wanted to remove the head just in case, and reason with myself which was the best method to proceed.

Ok, now that the head and pistons are ok, then the logical way to go is to try to thread a new chain thro the system.

I am tempted to remove the sump and thread the chain from down past and over the injector sprocket into the guide toward teh crank pulley, around the crank, as now the sump would be off, then thread a wire down the slack side and pull the chain back up over the tensioner guide, and ther rejoin at the cam sprocket once the head is back on.

Any ideas whether this would be the best way forward now gents.

Thanks again, Anthony.

 

[MB Service Centre]

Anthony, wow no damage! thats fantasti new but i cant see why, for my work on these engine i never thought they were a safe enging! yes there are cut outs on the top of the pistons but still i didnt think they were safe. If i was you i would pull the hydraulic cam followers out and you will prob find on the hydraulic piston inside the cam follower that there is damage with means valve bent, also stand head on the side and fill ports up with water and you will prob find what valves are bent.never had to take sump off for the chain, always been able to fish the ens up.

 

[television]

Good news.. I can send you the timing instructions for the camshafts

Is it not possible to see the sprocket and get a bent wire underneath it

 

[MB Service Centre]

Sorry me again, just had a flash back to one of my last jobs when i was in the mercedes benz truck side< it was on a sprinter but same engine as yours, i sent the head away for a pressure test an a skim of the head, came back and built it up but when i started the engine up it had a bad tapping noise, stripped it back down and found out they skimmed the head ever so slightly to much and the noise was the valves just slightly catching the pistons, so these engines are deff not safe when timing wrong or chain snapped.
just check before you start re building the engine.
Thanks
Rob

 

[S80]

MBSC, the OP does mention having had the head skimmed...

The HG thickness can be quite critical on some diesel engines, and a range of thicknesses is usually available - indicated by different holes or notches in the gasket.

 

[anthony evs]

Hi malcolm,

Cant see far enough into the sump to get a wire around mate. Also, after examining the broken chain, there a some small parts of the broken link missing, i can only assume they are in the bottom of the sump, so i`m gonna have to remove the sump to scoop those out anyway to make sure.

The timing instructions would be very useful, cheers.

Thanks Mal, youve been a great help.

 

[anthony evs]

Hi Rob,

These domed shaped distrubutors on the face of the head actually sit off the head inbetween the valves, and afre prooud of the whole head surface by around 8mm, so if the pistons had hit the valves, they would have also squashed the domes flat, but they are unmarked. Also, i have shon a bright light on the face of the valves and looked into the inlet and exhaust chambers and can see no light. I will pour alittle water over each valve in the morning to see if any leaks thro any valves, good tip, cheers.

In addition, on checking the cylinder bores, noticed the pistons stop short of the full stroke ( flush the the head gasket ) by about 9mm, allowing room for these domes inside the cylinders. Upon running a finger at this point can feel a very small step, where the wear of the cylinder / piston travel stops.

Thaks for your input as well Rob, its very much appreciated.

Anyone had the pleasure in removing the sump on one of these baies, and can shed soem light on how to get it done in the most painless method.

Cheers All.

 

[television]

I need an Email address to send the details too

 

[anthony evs]

Hi Malcolm,

email address is

anthony.evans2@homecall.co.uk

Cheers Malcolm.

 

[television]

I have sent 4 papers

 

[anthony evs]

I have sent 4 papers

Had a good read Mal, great info, thanks very much. I am not sure i need to do the dti stuff as i`m fitting a new chain, i think that info is a guide as to how much wear is allowed in the chain before it starts to effect timing.

What i didnt notice was where the injection pump needs to be set for tdc at cyl no1.

I can clearly see the crank markings, and cam markings, but cant see where the pump needs to be to ensure its delivering at no1 when at tdc no1.

Any other info in that book of tricks you have Mal.

Thanks again Mal.

Best regards, Anthony.

 

[television]

I cannot find anything on this so far