W124 230E Cylinder head recondition.

Marine-Unit

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I am trying to remove my cylinder head for cleaning/valve lapping and I need help with removing my timing chain please.

It's a 102 engine and it appears like the engine has never been dismantled before, hence the chain has never been cut. What should I do?

I will be grateful if anyone would assist me with scanned instructions from workshop manual to do the job. Please send to my email ....."groove_eccentric@yahoo.co.uk".

Thanks!
 

meanie

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Crack off the cam sprocket bolt,remove the chain tensioner (behind alternator) & then remove the cam sprocket.
There are 2 pins which hold the chain guide in (remove the thermostat housing).They have M6 threads which you'll need to chase out with a tap.Pul these out & remove the guide rail.
There are 3 allen bolts which screw the head to the timing chest.Amongst the coolant senders you'll see a 13mm bolt head,remove this also as this screws into the block.
I always take the manifolds off with the head-2 points here,both on the inlet;as you look at the fuel metering head from the n/s wing,you'll see two 6mm allen bolts (sunk down a bit).Remove these,they screw into the manifold support bracket.Then,if you look at the throttle butterfly lever,you'll see the return spring which also needs to be disconnected.
I always replace the chain tensioner at this time,post when ready to refit & someone will guide you through reassembling the tensioner (it's important to do it right).

With the head removed & stripped,pay particular attention to the valve guide free play,as these were always a weakness.
 

television

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I can print out the work sheets in the morning, I take it it is a 102 engine. if you put a cable tie to keep the chain tight on the sprocket it saves a lot of timing work
 
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Thanks a lot Meanie and Television. I have already removed manifolds. I shall undo the sprocket, tensioner and rail by tomorrow and I won't forget to tightly secure the chain to the sprocket with a cable. When I start to refit, I will definately need all the help I can get. Thanks man!
 

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Will contradict TV here & say take the sprocket out (the timing marks are on the cam & this will be on the bench anyway when the valves are out).
 

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Also,get the head refaced no matter,& don't be tempted by anything other than an MB head gasket.These engines were infamous for head gasket faults (my record for replacement was 700 miles)!
 

television

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Will contradict TV here & say take the sprocket out (the timing marks are on the cam & this will be on the bench anyway when the valves are out).

Thats OK you are supposed to mark the chain, relative to the sprocket, tying it is easier, thats what I do and its in the MB instructions, and you do it on TDC
 

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Thats OK you are supposed to mark the chain, relative to the sprocket, tying it is easier, thats what I do and its in the MB instructions, and you do it on TDC

It certainly was,but we never bothered!
To prove a point one day,we checked it out.Marked chain & sprocket,then turned the engine over by hand.Took 20 odd turns before the paint marks corresponded!
On the 102 engine,tying the chain to the sprocket will make it difficult to remove the guide rail & the 3 allen bolts from down the front.
 
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I am grabbing all your contributions and I am truly grateful. More ideas are welcome as well.

Please remember to help me out with the repair instruction manual.
 

television

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Only the tensioner needs to come out, the chain guide rails are not touched, Anyway I have sent the instructions
 
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Thanks mate! Seen your mail....I'm most grateful.
 

television

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We all have our own way of doing things, some are by the book, at other times we devise our own ways. I used to rebuild engines, and I had many dodges that suited me as a better way out. All I can do on the forum is to go by the book to avoid come backs
 

television

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uh oh....
Feel really awkward here,but the chain guide (the one that's held in with the 2 pins,83 & 101 in the link) on the injection side of the engine does have to be removed as the chain runs through it.
http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...+++717.413&CT=M&cat=504&SID=05&SGR=015&SGN=01

Please meanie do not feel awkward, I could well be wrong, you are a wonderful guy to have on any forum.

If I am out of order then I am sorry :(, tell you what I am sending you the work sheet for the job, please pass on your comments, I will never fall out with you, your input is invaluable
 
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You are right. Hands-on experience differs from one individual to another, for the simple fact that we perceive things and comprehend them in different ways.

You have all guided me well; the rest is left in my hands to translate your contributions into good result.

Thank you once again!
 
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I will definately overcome all these obstacles by the time I start on the process tomorrow. Rest assured, the Cyl head will come out and go back in after work is done.
 

television

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You are right. Hands-on experience differs from one individual to another, for the simple fact that we perceive things and comprehend them in different ways.

You have all guided me well; the rest is left in my hands to translate your contributions into good result.

Thank you once again!

Pleased that you understand, I have had an awful day, and I wish that I was 1000 miles away, too many post, too many Emails, too many PMs.

We have taken on 500 new members in 2 months, that has been many questions asked. there are a few unanswered post tonight, and I just take it inwardly, I will go and sleep it off :(
 

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TV
You are not out of order,the Mercedes destructions are!!
They make no mention of removing the guide rail (83 in link in previous post).However,over the years it would not be an exageration to say that I must have done 150/200 of these & can confidently say that 83 must come out.
Another point of interest comes on step 26 of the instructions.If you look at the drawing next to them,the 3 allen bolts are arrowed-on the far right of the drawing,about halfway up,you will see a bolt head (13mm in real life) that is not arrowed,nor mentioned in the text.This must also be removed.
Phew!
 

television

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TV
You are not out of order,the Mercedes destructions are!!
They make no mention of removing the guide rail (83 in link in previous post).However,over the years it would not be an exageration to say that I must have done 150/200 of these & can confidently say that 83 must come out.
Another point of interest comes on step 26 of the instructions.If you look at the drawing next to them,the 3 allen bolts are arrowed-on the far right of the drawing,about halfway up,you will see a bolt head (13mm in real life) that is not arrowed,nor mentioned in the text.This must also be removed.
Phew!

Thanks meanie, and thank you for your input, I have waited for you reply, and I am off to bed and I will sleep a little better having read your post. :D:D

I took on jaguar once on their workshop manual for the early XJ6 , they never replied.

Thanks Meanie
 
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