W124 '95 E280, New Radiator, A/C, Coolant issues...

JensH

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2013
Messages
246
Reaction score
7
Location
London
Your Mercedes
W124
Hi all,

I had a new (Behr) radiator fitted about 3 weeks ago. No apparent cooling system problems until this week-end.

After the visit to the workshop, though, I found that the aircon (Diavia, dealer fitted) had stopped working. The compressor would not switch on.

I had for some time, anyway, had a problem with a flashing recirculation button, indicating either a non-functioning temp sensor (air or evaporator) or a short. The A/C had been working fine, though.

After the radiator, I had the A/C system re-gassed from 350 kg to 850 kg (the former being what the original Diavia instructions say, although this now appears to be a misprint; the latter being what the general forum consensus seems to be on the correct level). In fact, I now understand (thanks to member GSXR) that Diavia advises 800 +/- 20 kg. The system had actually previously been working ok at 350 kg (extract from original Diavia instructions attached). It is presently still at 850 kg.

On a closer look I found that all the push-on connections to the relay for the auxiliary fans had been pulled out during the time in the workshop (by accident). This was an easy fix, but did not cure the A/C problem.

On Saturday, in about an hour, I sorted the A/C, by removing the O/S facia, disconnecting, removing, cleaning and reconnecting the Diavia ECU-MAN CPU (two multi-connectors, mine has no RPM sensor). The flashing button has stopped and the system A/C is cooling fine, BUT...

There is now a coolant loss problem.

On the way down to the Kent coast on Saturday, the coolant warning lamp came on soon after I set off from London. I found the reservoir down to about an inch of visible fluid. I keep a good stock of the correct formula coolant in the car, so topped up.

On the journey, in high'ish 20s heat, I got stuck in the 90 min delay caused by M2 closure at Medway, after an incident. The coolant temperature increased dramatically, although I realised this was initially attributable to me leaving the A/C on, and in the Min setting - silly me on two counts.

The needle never actually hit the red, but was very close. The two Diavia auxiliary fans did NOT engage (they supposedly do so above 105°, but mine have always been slow to kick in). Once I was clear of the jam, I pulled into a service station and found that the coolant reservoir was empty. As the engine cooled, I step-released the pressure with the cap, which caused modest bubbling up and overflow of remaining coolant. There is no scum in or around the reservoir. The coolant had clearly been very hot.

The overall coolant loss in little over an hour was dramatic. The system needed in excess of 5 litres to refill.

Since then, there is an ongoing loss of coolant, and on the return trip, a further shorter hold-up also saw the temp gauge rise with A/C on, but settle back to just above 80° (nornal) with A/C off.

There is some evidence of coolant escape behind the front O/S wheel arch and also collecting below the radiator on the sump guard (small spot patch below). There is no evidence of major gasket issues. There appears to be no coolant loss at standstill/overnight (checking this morning).

Yesterday there was a slight sweet coolant whiff in the cabin but I reckon this is just down to the aftermath of some coolant spillage in the engine bay entering through the vents.

I will drop in to the workshop, to see what the mechanics say, but it seems to me that the following may be the cause/contributors:

Connections to new radiator seeping somewhere (not readily visible);
Air in system after new radiator (explains amount of top/up?);
Coolant temperature sensor;
Small leak somewhere else in the hose system;
Water pump/seal;
Hairline crack in coolant tank.

Any tips/thoughts very welcome, including as to what events/circumstances, if any, might trigger significant one-off coolant loss, e.g. a rapid and dramatic overheat?

Attached 4 pictures, the Diavia 350 kg spec, reservoir as at this morning, small spots behind O/S wheel arch, single spot below sump guard.

Cheers,


Jens
 

Attachments

  • 15-06-29-Diavia-350kg.jpg
    15-06-29-Diavia-350kg.jpg
    383.3 KB · Views: 30
  • 15-06-29-Coolant-Reservoir-am-MBOF.jpg
    15-06-29-Coolant-Reservoir-am-MBOF.jpg
    250.1 KB · Views: 42
  • 15-06-29-Coolant-OS-underside-MBOF.jpg
    15-06-29-Coolant-OS-underside-MBOF.jpg
    339.1 KB · Views: 25
  • 15-06-29-Coolant-Front-Undrside-MBOF.jpg
    15-06-29-Coolant-Front-Undrside-MBOF.jpg
    292.4 KB · Views: 24

hotrodder

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2008
Messages
894
Reaction score
26
Your Mercedes
'93 320te, '54 ragtop beetle (in bits)
There's an overflow resevoir hiding behind the o/s wheel arch liner. As well as a pressure stage the rad cap also has a vacuum relief valve*, the idea is that if the system pukes any coolant out it's drawn back into the header tank as the system cools down

http://www.w124performance.com/service/Index/104/20CoolingSystem.htm

A cracked header or overflow tank can obviously leak more as things expand with heat but i wouldn't expect it to seal completely when cold. If the overflow tank is cracked/the hose to it has split etc that'd explain why it didn't leak while parked up
Air in the system after the new rad is a possible cause of the initial drop in coolant but it's not like the m104 engine is fussy in this regard; as long as the heater was set to full hot when the coolant is changed they typically bleed themselves quickly as the engine warms up

Waterpumps have a higher flow rate than necessary at higher rpm in order to flow enough at idle so the initial symptoms of a tired pump (sloppy bearings/corroded impeller etc) can be coolant temps that climb more quickly when the engine is idling. Pumps have a weep hole, usually leaks from here result in coolant collecting (and then quickly evaporating) in a ribbed area on the engine block. If a drain pipe were fitted to it (see the first link) i suppose coolant could end up on the undertray before finding it's way to the ground? When my waterpump bearings died of old age initially the only signs were slow coolant loss and a stain on the engine block. As it got worse it started to weep from behind the pump pulley too and the car would mark it's territory when parked up. Once i'd changed it i found the car relied on its fans FAR less when stuck in traffic

Several things to investigate/keep an eye on but personally the first thing i'd do is buy a new rad cap (part # in the google link). They're under a tenner from MB and you'll probably find the spring for the pressure stage is noticably stronger on a new cap than an ancient one. Puking coolant when it got hot could be that simple. The fans also need checking out... even if the waterpump is tired they should keep temps in check albeit cycling more often than usual. Cut in temps (and aircon pressure for the leccy fans) are in the w124performance link although the leccy fans might not be switched in the same way with Diavia A/C? The viscous fan can be checked by shoving vegetables into it (should stall an idling fan but once engaged the fan should dice 'em) but personally i find it less messy to check the resistance by hand with the engine off; should turn freely with little resistance when not engaged, far more resistance when engaged. When working properly they make quite a racket when engaged due to the amout of air they shift


* Google images A1245000406, the small black disc recessed in the centre of the underside of the cap is the vacuum relief valve
 

Botus

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2014
Messages
6,287
Reaction score
2,477
Location
UK
Your Mercedes
S500/2010/500
a loss of 1 ltr in little over an hour should be visible, 5 ltrs indicates huge issue, if you can't see this coming out... and the fact you needed that much makes me think head gasket ???

often substantial water loss won't show up on the temp gauge as the water that allows it to display its temp is no longer in the system. By the time the whole engine is glowing hot enough to get the gauge up you will have significant issues.....
 
OP
J

JensH

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2013
Messages
246
Reaction score
7
Location
London
Your Mercedes
W124
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #4
Radiator, A/C, Coolant Issues

There's an overflow resevoir hiding behind the o/s wheel arch liner. As well as a pressure stage the rad cap also has a vacuum relief valve*, the idea is that if the system pukes any coolant out it's drawn back into the header tank as the system cools down

http://www.w124performance.com/service/Index/104/20CoolingSystem.htm]

Many thanks for this link. Very helpful. I have downloaded all the relevant items.

Looking at my reservoir cap, it looks a bit knackered, so, as you suggest, I will start with that. Ordered a new one today. Original MB, £11.59 including EU shipping.

The Diavia system switches are different. I covered that in a lengthy post a while ago. It really does take a lot of heat for my two aux fans to kick in. I've only really seen them working in 30º+ heat in the South of France.

Driving around town today, the A/C was working fine, and the temp fluctuations were normal, just over 80º to around 88-90º when queue'ing in traffic, with a quick return to "normal", but there is a continuing slight reduction in the coolant level, so, aside from the cap, I think it may be either the coolant or vacuum components in the overflow set-up, because the wheel arch patch is an ongoing feature.

Cheers,


Jens
 
OP
J

JensH

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2013
Messages
246
Reaction score
7
Location
London
Your Mercedes
W124
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #5
W124 '95 E280, New Radiator, A/C, Coolant issues, UPDATE...

By way of an update:

I have had a few days now (since last Saturday) of ongoing coolant leakage.

This morning, I checked the 30A fuse in the aux fan relay in the Diavia wiring system and found that it had blown, so maybe the loss of the aux fans has been a factor in the problem (in addition to the primary task of working the condenser, they also augment the main fan).

The a/c works, and the fans kick in, but rather quickly (certainly below the coolant temp trigger of 110º C).

I drove over to Autodeutsche in Camden and spoke to the mechanic who works on the car. He is German and worked for many years at an MB specialist back home. On the journey (on the hottest day for 10 years!), with a/c on, the car remained steady at just above the 80º line, with the aux fans running all the time. The coolant did not rise much above the cold mark in the reservoir.

We reviewed the engine compartment together, and agreed:

1 It would be worth replacing the cap, to improve/cure any pressurisation problems - I had already ordered one, so that will be sorted soon;

2 There was a minor crunching noise from the water pump, suggesting wear, and, possibly, reduced water flow - there is a small coolant puddle collected below the pump on the engine casing. Also a slight wobble on the pulley spindle. Thermostat worth replacing;

3 There were no obvious signs of leaks certainly not around the radiator or engine block, and no signs of coolant mixing with the internal engine components;

4 The puddle below the O/S front wheel does suggest an issue there, so will be investigated - possible cause cracked overflow reservoir, although the new cap on the main reservoir may sort this out.

With 2,000-2,500 (hot!) miles to drive in August, post MOT, I am inclined simply to go for a new pump, thermostat, and, maybe the relevant sensors and senders, since they are cheap. The pump is available as an MB part at €199.96. Seems not bad to me, for a part that will last another 150k miles. I may also get a 'B' standard used overflow reservoir while I am at it - €16.74.

I will post on the final outcome in due course.

In the meantime, I am perplexed that the 2 x Diavia SPAL fans kick in so quickly. This may be refrigerant pressure switch related, because the engine has got nowhere near the coolant temp trigger.

I mentioned in previous posting, that I had originally gassed the system at .900 kg, but reduced this to .350 kg as a result of finding an original Diavia installation spec (for the W124). General opinion, though, seemed to think .850 kg was correct. In fact, Diavia itself currently advises .800 kg +/- .20 kg. I am presently at .850kg so wonder whether this isn't making the aux fans switch in prematurely? It is not a major over-pressurisation, though. I cannot believe the system is actually intended to be gassed only at .350kg. That must have been a typo?

Jens

p.s. One other thing: what do the gradients on the temp gauge actually stand for? Only 40º, 80º and 120º are marked as such. Logic says the mark between the 40/80 is 60º and between the 80/120 100º. Am I right? MB says that coolant will only boil at 130º, so I presume that this is what takes the needle to red?
 

hotrodder

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2008
Messages
894
Reaction score
26
Your Mercedes
'93 320te, '54 ragtop beetle (in bits)
Yeah the unmarked coolant gauge lines are as you say. The 130ºC boiling point/max coolant temp being over 120º is dependant on both the pressure cap (1.4 bar / ~20psi) and antifreeze 'strength'... more antifreeze % raises the boiling point as well as lowering the freezing temp however glycols have a lower spcific heat capacity than water so more antifreeze = coolant that doesn't remove waste heat as effectively*. A 50/50 mix is typically the compromise all car manufacturers settle on, this has a boiling point of ~107ºC @ atmospheric pressure. Pressurising the system raises this further but in normal use is as much about stopping localised boiling and/or puking coolant after switching off a hot engine (heat soak etc) as anything else. When the engine is running the thermostat acts as a restriction for the waterpump raising coolant pressure in the block & head

The different refrigerant weights you found in old/origional documentation... could this have something to do with the different flavours used? Earlier cars would have been running R12 origionally which obviously has different properties to r134a... if density, vapour pressure etc differ so will fill capacities

Found your thread on the Diavia set up http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=134590 The fan temp thing... as you say might be switched due to pressure and as they aren't a two speed deal on yours not as obvious. The switches exist in several different temp and pressure ratings for the MB hvac system and are colour coded for differentiation. I forget how the colour codes translate to numbers but there's a fair bit scattered around the internet, the Septics in hotter states are big on this sort of thing including adding resistors to lower the cut in temps of the aux fans and/or switching to a 'tropical' viscous fan which locks up at a slightly lower temp

I know it's been mentioned but i wouldn't give the headgasket a second thought for now personally... aside from the more usual m104 h/gasket failure mode (external oil leaks and/or oil & coolant mixing rather than breaching away gasket fire rings and burning coolant) if 5 litres of coolant had gone through the engine and out of the exhaust in an hour you would've noticed! At idle fuel consumption is probably(?) a litre or so per hour while an engine (obviously more economical than an m104) that manages 50mpg at 60mph is getting through around 5 litres of fuel per hour. If whoever changed the rad forgot to turn the heater on several of the lost litres could've been air and now we know the pump is leaking a chunk of what escaped would've quickly evaporated from the crankcase

* As an aside this is one of the reasons why many racing cars run neat water + a corrosion inhibitor. F1 rules allow upto 3.75bar / ~55psi IIRC which raises the boiling point of plain water to ~141ºC
 
OP
J

JensH

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2013
Messages
246
Reaction score
7
Location
London
Your Mercedes
W124
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #7
W124 '95 E280, New Radiator, A/C, Coolant issues, cont'd...

The different refrigerant weights you found in old/origional documentation... could this have something to do with the different flavours used? Earlier cars would have been running R12 origionally which obviously has different properties to r134a... if density, vapour pressure etc differ so will fill capacities

All very helpful again thanks.

The Diavia system on my E280 has always been R134a (as shown on the JPG I posted earlier in the thread). Back in the day in think an "3" might easily have been transposed for an "8" so I reckon mistake in the documentation is the answer. I'll stay at .850 kg for now.

Cheers,


Jens :D
 
OP
J

JensH

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2013
Messages
246
Reaction score
7
Location
London
Your Mercedes
W124
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #8
Correction...

(they supposedly do so above 105°, but mine have always been slow to kick in)

Apologies: Diavia fans come on at >110º C, go off when temp falls <105º C.

This is subject to whatever the refrigerant pressure switch may be telling the fans.

Jens
 
OP
J

JensH

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2013
Messages
246
Reaction score
7
Location
London
Your Mercedes
W124
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #9
W124 '95 E280, Rad, A/C, Coolant - if the cap fits...

Several things to investigate/keep an eye on but personally the first thing i'd do is buy a new rad cap

Fitted new reservoir cap yesterday and bingo! System pressurised correctly, main and overflow tanks balanced, and rock steady 80º plus a little bit over 150 miles on the motorway, with a/c on all the time, No loss of coolant. No leak by OS front wheel arch.

:cool:

That's the second problem fixed for around a tenner, having sorted the cruise control a while ago by replacing the switch behind the brake pedal.

Will replace the water pump and thermostat for good measure in the ongoing TLC...

Cheers hotrodder!



Jens :)
 
OP
J

JensH

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2013
Messages
246
Reaction score
7
Location
London
Your Mercedes
W124
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #10
W124, E280 ('95), Diavia A/c; ECU-MAN controller

p.s.

The operation of the coolant system at correct pressure had one consequence; the previously frayed hose from the main reservoir to the overflow reservoir finally split, as a I discovered last night. I corrected this by trimming about 25 mm off the hose this morning and re-fitting it (the overall run is about 900 mm). Might get some new hose.

I'll update after the new water pump has been fitted.

In the meantime, for those with later model W124s (the after-market air-con practice occurred late in the series), I have two resources that might be helpful:

1 A PDF of the original Diavia instructions and various relevant Technical Bulletins;

2 A PDF of various MB maintenance instructions relating to the cooling system.

If you find you have controller issues with your Diavia system, you may find that disconnecting the main multi-pole connector, with the ignition on, and reconnecting it resets the ECU. Cured an issue I had been fretting over for months.

Jens
 

Em4p

New Member
Joined
May 7, 2016
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Leeds
Your Mercedes
W124 1992 e300-24
Diavia ac

Having read your post on Diavia ac problems i to am having issues with Diavia ac in my w124 and finding little info to enable a proper fix primarily a wiring schematic

I would be interested to view the 2 pdf documents relating to Diavia ac you have listed in your post

How can i view these documents or is it possible for them to be emailed to me

Regards
 

chardF

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2013
Messages
376
Reaction score
4
Location
Warwickshire
Your Mercedes
SL 1994 320 R129
I have a Diavia system with 2 x Spal fans on my SL (3.2 104 HFM)
They kick in with coolant pressure, not engine temp. I can't actually see a coolant temp sensor to trigger them.

I know the factory MB system kicks the fans in with coolant temp but I'm guessing the Diavia system isn't as comprehensive.

Having said that I fitted a new fan clutch. Prior to this the temp used to go worryingly high, Now the engine fan copes admirably. Even 40c idling in traffic with A/C full blast, I haven't seen over 100c, this quickly drops back to 80-90c when moving again.
 
OP
J

JensH

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2013
Messages
246
Reaction score
7
Location
London
Your Mercedes
W124
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #13
W124 E-Class, Diavia A/c

Hi there, if you follow the link below you'll find 3 documents, which may help:

1, is a "bible" I made up from my own web research about the Diavia ECU-MAN unit, including the original instructions and component specification, and then various update bulletins. Also Diavia's own wiring schematic for the connection points (immediately behind the packing list) - PDF file;

2, is an image showing the connection of the wiring for after market auxiliary fans (x 2) at the 30A relay which should be fixed to the top of the wheel arch near the battery. The Diavia fans work on different trigger principles to the MB factory fitted unit. I think I covered this in an earlier post. Basically, it will be quite unusual for the Diavia fans to kick in - it will need the ambient temperature to be very very warm. The MB factory system has a two relay set-up housed in the relay block behind the fuse box - PDF file;

3, is my own, non-expert, wiring schematic, which is not complete, since I fixed my system without needing to trace every wire from the Diavia ECU (which is under the dash behind the steering wheel) - a little plastic box. If that has failed, almost certainly irreplaceable - PDF file.

My car had had its compressor changed out by previous owner, to one without a clutch/RPM sensor/switch - so I have an entire set of wires and connector disconnected (as shown on my diagram). If the wires are connected on mine, the compressor won't work - that took a while to work out!

I replaced the original 12-pole Diavia connector block (engine bay, also by battery), which was clogged with grease and the plugs corroded. I used a standard male/female combination, re-crimping all the wiring, and then covered it with an electrical connection box. I also replaced the pressure switch (engine bay front near ABS unit) and re-sited the outside temp sensor (housed within main air intake under windscreen).

I never experienced a Diavia system in a new or young car, so can't make any comparison, but my system now functions ok, albeit that it is not as chilly as the system in my family's Aygo. I may swap out the condenser in a few weeks.

Mine is very late W124, E280 estate, facelift, registered March 1996. You may find slight variants in the set up on your car, as I am sure there will be slight variations in how different dealers' mechanics followed the not-very-clear Diavia instructions.

The link will be open for 7 days.

Hope this helps. Let me know, if you have any other questions.

Cheers,


Jens

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gzt69m74585qmht/AABpLKzRNaUkkDDyrD_Ol7jKa?dl=0
 

Em4p

New Member
Joined
May 7, 2016
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
Leeds
Your Mercedes
W124 1992 e300-24
Thanks for posting link so quickly greatly appreciated

Sadly having read all info very little is specific to my problem

Will have to dig deeper into wiring my controler is a 12 wire type 15 A20130 with a screw adjusting pot with letters c to w no info on web

Have contacted Diavia Webasto agents local to my area to see if they can find a wiring schematic for me but as yet no joy

Everything seems to be i place and not messed with gassed up compressor works if overiden through presure switch condenser fan works again if overiden through relays rec button and led on works but air con not and dehumid not no leds either although the buttons apear ok and no solderd joints in circuit board dry

I was hoping to trace the wiring through a schematic rather than constantly dismantling dash components
 

Comand Online Ltd is a specialist supplier of Mercedes Navigation Disks, Phone & Bluetooth, iPod, DAB, CD and other COMAND retrofit parts to enhance your vehicle.www.comandonline.co.uk
Top Bottom