W124 auto box. What should I do??

gorselands

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1993 Mercedes w124 220CE Automatic. Chassis No. WDB1240422CO10398

Mileage 126K

When I took the car for last MOT the examiner mentioned an oil leak. As I had recently changed the engine oil and filter and some of the old oil had spilled onto the engine tray I wasn’t too bothered, cleaned up what I could reach. Noticed a bit more oil on the drive and thought there must have been more spilled than I thought.

A couple of months later acceleration was poor, jerky, and it wasn’t changing up properly. I took it to a gearbox specialist. They charged me an inspection fee of £65.00 + vat, said a transmission oil cooler pipe was leaking, the prop shaft needed new coupling and re-balancing and that poor acceleration was an engine problem. They quoted about £600.00 + vat to change the oil and sort the prop shaft.

A mechanic friend suggested cutting off the cooler pipes about 2 inches from unions and replace with rubber pipe and jubilee clips as a temporary measure. Fill with new transmission fluid and see if that sorted the problem. He also said driving it could have worn/polished the plate, damaged the torque converter, valves etc. etc. So, I could pay the £600.00 only to find that the gearbox is knackered.

The car revs and idles OK but won’t really drive now and is now stuck outside the house.

Any advice much appreciated.

Thanks - Mike
 

d215yq

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Well you can refill the transmission oil from the engine bay easy enough and see if that fixes some or all of the problems? I think a prop coupling was a few hours labour plus 50 quid for the part and the oil cooler/refill shouldn't be that difficult - 600 seems on the high side for both those.

What does poor acceleration mean - if the gearbox doesnt work and the prop coupling is very warn it will feel that will make it look like it can't accelerate and I doubt there's a seperate fault on the engine that's appeared at the same time?
 
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gorselands

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Thanks for the reply. Basically it's stuck rather than won't accelerate. Doesn't want to go into gear and when it does it jerks when trying to move off. it's not the prop shaft, maybe flexi coupling does want replacing but that's not the problem. I too doubt there's a separate fault on the engine that's appeared at the same time.
When you say you can refill the transmission oil from the engine bay is that through the dipstick tube?
 

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That 'inspection fee' sounds a bit much, plus I'm not sure about the 'rebalancing' of the prop. Whenever I've changed a centre bearing it was just a case of marking the two halfs to aid correct reasonably.

I may be wrong so please don't take my word alone, but I'm not entirely comfortable with what they've said/quoted.
 
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gorselands

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No, at this moment trying to find the correct dipstick - so far getting "not compatible with this model".
 
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gorselands

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No, I wasn't happy with the quote - especially as it was written on the back of an envelope!
 

matthew k

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No, I wasn't happy with the quote - especially as it was written on the back of an envelope!
Go somewhere else dude, they don't sound that great. When I have a job needing doing that requires a ramp or tools/skills I don't have I use a local garage run by two guys.

Plus, I make their lives easier by ordering the parts required and leaving them in the boot. That also means I can shop about and get the best deal, something they obviously don't have time for.
 
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gorselands

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Thanks Matthew, This was from an established gearbox specialist who were recommended by an Indy MB garage?? Now need to get the right dipstick and transmission fluid. If filling the box works I will replace the oil cooler pipes then change the filter and sort out the prop shaft. At my age (73) it's not the getting down that's the problem it's the getting back up!!
 
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gorselands

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Thanks LostKiwi. I will search for those.
 

matthew k

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Thanks Matthew, This was from an established gearbox specialist who were recommended by an Indy MB garage?? Now need to get the right dipstick and transmission fluid. If filling the box works I will replace the oil cooler pipes then change the filter and sort out the prop shaft. At my age (73) it's not the getting down that's the problem it's the getting back up!!
Although there are many decent specialists too, and of course some jobs are beyond the scope of general garages.
 
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gorselands

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This was the case with the indy. I have been searching for a 722.4 dipstick - plenty of 722.6 but can't find a 722.4, they must be a rare beast.
 

d215yq

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I had a E220 coupe and estate. Dipstick is rear leftish of engine. From memory it's a black plastic thing and you pull a lever and then it can be removed. I think you check level when in PArk engine running. Fill to that and see if the problems go away.

It's quite common to need the couplings and prop shaft centre mount but that is more a long term thing and doesn't need to be connected with the gearbox error. Effectively I would see if autobox works with correct fluid level. If so buy a new cooler and pay someone to fit it (making sure they remove all fluid and renew it while they do this). Then unless there's some serious juddering/vibration when you put power down or come off the power I'd forget about it for the time being...if there is judder/vibration in this situation you can then take it to someone for free to assess which of propshaft bearing/flexidisc is needed.
 
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gorselands

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Thanks d215yq, The 722.4 dipsticks must be like hen's teeth. Nothing showing up in the UK. Getting hold of one is the first thing, then, I think, with the engine running and warm check/fill the gearbox. I will see how much MB charge for the dipstick or try a scrapper. There is an MB garage/enthusiast in the south who forum members recommended and who specializes in good condition used parts. I've had electrical stuff from him ages ago but I can't remember his name/business. If anyone knows it please let me know.
Thanks again- Mike
 

d215yq

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Thanks d215yq, The 722.4 dipsticks must be like hen's teeth. Nothing showing up in the UK. Getting hold of one is the first thing, then, I think, with the engine running and warm check/fill the gearbox. I will see how much MB charge for the dipstick or try a scrapper. There is an MB garage/enthusiast in the south who forum members recommended and who specializes in good condition used parts. I've had electrical stuff from him ages ago but I can't remember his name/business. If anyone knows it please let me know.
Thanks again- Mike

I think you may be are getting confused....Both my E220 autos had ATF dipsticks that came with the car, there is a tube that comes up to the left rear of the engine. There should be a dipstick with some weird cap/lever thing on it. You pull the lever up and then can pull the dipstick out.
 

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I think you may be are getting confused....Both my E220 autos had ATF dipsticks that came with the car, there is a tube that comes up to the left rear of the engine. There should be a dipstick with some weird cap/lever thing on it. You pull the lever up and then can pull the dipstick out.
^^^^^this^^^^^
 
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gorselands

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Thanks all, I know where the dipstick tube is with the black cap. I took it off a few weeks ago but it didn't appear to have a dipstick attached to it. I will investigate further. It makes sense that it came with the car in that there is every other type of dipstick available - 722.6,7,8 but no 722.4's.

Mike
 

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