W124 Coupe Questions

I

Irish(London)

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Hi all, first time poster, be gentle!

Have gone from a '99 911 to an 'MX-5 (new house and impending wedding:D) I am now looking for some waftability and quality German engineering.

Last weekend I spend some time in my Dads ('00) E-class and I had forgotten what pleasant places Mercs were! (by the way Mercedes Ireland paid towards a respray on his car for those keeping tabs on the rust issues).

Anyhow the questions:

How are the W124 on miles (e.g. above 200k!) - this will be a keeper;
Tin worm - I assume most have some?
What colours are popular.
What is the difference between the 12v and 24v;
Any other hints and tips (e.g. where to look for good examples)?

Looking forward to hanging around here a bit more!
 

television

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2002 SL500, 216 CL500, all fully loaded
Hi all, first time poster, be gentle!

Have gone from a '99 911 to an 'MX-5 (new house and impending wedding:D) I am now looking for some waftability and quality German engineering.

Last weekend I spend some time in my Dads ('00) E-class and I had forgotten what pleasant places Mercs were! (by the way Mercedes Ireland paid towards a respray on his car for those keeping tabs on the rust issues).

Anyhow the questions:

How are the W124 on miles (e.g. above 200k!) - this will be a keeper;
Tin worm - I assume most have some?
front wings at bottom, sills brake pipes and the anything that you can see

What colours are popular. blues, grey red silver,gold
What is the difference between the 12v and 24v;they are higher output sightly more efficient
Any other hints and tips (e.g. where to look for good examples)? Exchange and Mart Pistonheads Ebay

Looking forward to hanging around here a bit more!

welcome to the forum
 
OP
I

Irish(London)

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Thanks Malcolm. I had not thought of Exchange and Mart.

Better half wants something economical. The 300 is a 3 litre? Correct? If so I will have to claim it is a 1.6 and the 300 is just the model designation!

Adrian
 

television

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The 280-320 are very fast cars, and the best to drive, very nice looking as well, there have been a few for sale recntly
 

Richard Moakes

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CL500; ML500
300 12V has M103 engine, old school technology, not that powerful, but will run for years, uses KE engine management (mainly mechanical). Suffers from valve stem seal wear, and early engines suffer from valve guide wear.

300 24V has 24V head on old M103 block, its very powerful, but needs revs, also has LH or HFM engine management. I would avoid this one.

320 is 24V and is the M104 engine, the pick of the bunch when in good order, but is prone to head gasket failure, and there have been a lot of wiring loom issues due to bio degradable insulation being used, leading to expensive repairs.

I have experienced all 3 in different cars, and whilst the 320 is a 'modern' engine that idles super smooth and develops a lot of power the electronics and mechanical complexity can be an issue. The 300 12V is somewhat old school, so don't expect a perfect stable idle or instant starting in all weather conditions (sometimes it takes a 2nd turn of the key to catch), but I expect it would last for ever.

I have to admit to being a mechanical injection bigot, I like the simple principle of KE injection, and made sure both my cars have it, and also neither of them has the complication of o2 sensors or catalysts :)
 
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I

Irish(London)

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Richard,

Thanks for the above. Exactly what I am looking for. I am actually more interested in the agricultural engine that the modern nice tick over type (even if the engine bay looks like that from a 70s German taxi).

The current plant is get a cheap, unmodded, well serviced although rough around the edges car (project style) and move on from there.

My view of the market at the minute is that some people are wholly unrealistic on values and some spot on. Just have to find that gem!

Adrian
 

kth286

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Your Mercedes
E320 Coupe 95
You should not hang around to bag your 124 car (nor should anyone) according to a recent issue of the quarterly edition of "Mercedes-Benz Classic" magazine form Germany.

The edition in question featured a 124 for the first time (a cab) and it was showcased and driven in the German countryside along with two other classic 4 seater cabs in the same mould.

It gave typical values in Euros for each car in original good condition and they ranged

* from one million at the top end for the 540 K convertible C with Sindlefingin body down to

* 90000 to 10000 for the W111 cabrio to

* 25000 to 30000 for the w124 cabrio.

So, if the 124 follows the previous generation cars, and with ever more people able to afford a second car to use for high days, it bodes very well for future values.

Get yours now, is all I can say.
 

Apial

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300 12V has M103 engine, old school technology, not that powerful, but will run for years, uses KE engine management (mainly mechanical). Suffers from valve stem seal wear, and early engines suffer from valve guide wear.

300 24V has 24V head on old M103 block, its very powerful, but needs revs, also has LH or HFM engine management. I would avoid this one.

320 is 24V and is the M104 engine, the pick of the bunch when in good order, but is prone to head gasket failure, and there have been a lot of wiring loom issues due to bio degradable insulation being used, leading to expensive repairs.

I have experienced all 3 in different cars, and whilst the 320 is a 'modern' engine that idles super smooth and develops a lot of power the electronics and mechanical complexity can be an issue. The 300 12V is somewhat old school, so don't expect a perfect stable idle or instant starting in all weather conditions (sometimes it takes a 2nd turn of the key to catch), but I expect it would last for ever.

I have to admit to being a mechanical injection bigot, I like the simple principle of KE injection, and made sure both my cars have it, and also neither of them has the complication of o2 sensors or catalysts :)

I must have a unique 300CE-24 then, as it has a M104 engine and KEJetronic semi-electronic injection. Furthermore it had a new head gasket at 16 years old that was a modified design to stop the oil seep from the oilway close to the edge of the exhaust side. I also have a a catalyst and O2 sensors. It starts first turn of the key too.

The engine redlines at 7000 rpm and it has amazing "back to the future punch" unlike the more sedate 320.

Seriously, I would be more careful when buying a 320 if it hasn't had the wiring loom looked at. There is no reason to avoid the 300-24 engine.
 

Ade W124

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I have the 300CE-24v and can second Apial's comments :D

In the various cars I test drove (E320s and CEs) mine went much better than the slipping geared newer cars. I only drove one sorted E320 and I can't recall it feeling much different to mine... I suspect if you drove them back to back the differences would be clear.

My point would be to buy on condition and history rather than age or mileage.

I bought a low mileage car and am in the process of shelling out for its first swathe of relatively expensive repairs/maintenance... with hindsight a higher mileage well looked after car may have been a cheaper option :rolleyes:

Make sure you drive a few and happy hunting..

Ade
 

Richard Moakes

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CL500; ML500
I must have a unique 300CE-24 then, as it has a M104 engine and KEJetronic semi-electronic injection. Furthermore it had a new head gasket at 16 years old that was a modified design to stop the oil seep from the oilway close to the edge of the exhaust side. I also have a a catalyst and O2 sensors. It starts first turn of the key too.

The engine redlines at 7000 rpm and it has amazing "back to the future punch" unlike the more sedate 320.

Seriously, I would be more careful when buying a 320 if it hasn't had the wiring loom looked at. There is no reason to avoid the 300-24 engine.

I believe the 300CE-24V was a transition model between M103 and M104 engined cars, I did own one for a couple of years, so it was purely a personal opinion. In all honestly, it seemed the most powerful and rev happy of all 3 engine types I have owned, but the high revving nature of the engine in its power delivery didn't suit me.

As ever, all these things are personal opinion and perception.

I very much agree about being careful with the wiring loom on the later cars, and in all cases, look at the car in the round, if it's been well looked after, then it doesn't really matter which engine it has.

Sorry if I upset the owners of these cars/engines, it was not my intention, I love all CE class MB's, I just drew on my experiences of all three engines.

Cheers,
 
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I

Irish(London)

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All,

The above has been most helpful. I understand that interms of big bills the rear suspension and gearbox can be troublesome. Any idea as to cost?

Also is corrosion where the rear wheel arch meets the bumper anything to worry about?

Finally I presume that seat bolster repairs and a well trodden and (relatively) economical path?

Thanks again guys. My car is selling on Monday so hoping to move on a "project" coupe in the next couple of weeks.
 

Bolide

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BMW 525 Diesel Touring
The rear suspension on a coupe will most probably be springs & shocks. No surprises (or big bills) there

The stories of nightmares with rear suspension on the estates are, in my experience, totally wrong. Just because most garages don't understand it it's acquired an unjustified reputation of being expensive to work on

Nick Froome
www.w124.co.uk
 

Ade W124

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Things that I've spent money on since having the car:

Serpentine belt tensioner
Cylinder head gasket
Thermostat
Discs, pads and sensors
72k service: oil, coolant, brake fluid, air filter, fuel filter (age related rather than mileage which is 58k)
New battery
ATF and filter change

The above cost me about £2.5k in three hits :roll: and only the head gasket has been down to a failure due a design weakness, the rest is just necessary maintenance... I'd like to think I could have done a lot myself but its not working out that way at the moment....:rolleyes:

There are few things needing doing soon on top (tyres, rear springs, engine mounts) and hopefully that's all the essential stuff out the way for the next few years. (thats blown it :D) Then its just a matter of bringing a tidy car back to perfect but I suspect imminent sprog, flat refurb and work will get in the way a bit in the short term.

The car's my daily driver and its looking like I'll do about 10k miles a year in it. When its grubby and needs filling up with petrol after 200 miles of city driving I hate it. When its clean and were going somewhere nice, its a very enjoyable way to travel.

Ade
 

eyelight

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Nobody has mentioned the four cylinder coupés yet. Can't comment on the 230, but we have a 16 valve E220 and it's been reasonably economical. Judging by your user name you might be making the odd trip to Ireland in it. We've managed to go from London, to Holyhead, with a bit of driving around Dublin, and on as far as Mitchellstown in Cork before refueling. Have done that twice, so it wasn't a fluke.

Have a bit of rust on the front wings as usual, and a small bit on rear wheel arch where it meets the bumper. Currently getting a quote on fixing that. Only large bills have been two front ball joints, and one rear spring.
And the driver's door window regulator, which was replaced 2 years ago, and has just gone again. Different mechanism to the saloon, and more expensive to replace.
The 2.2 is a bit less refined on the motorway than the 6 cylinder cars, (we have a 280 estate as well), and really could do with a fifth gear, but will happily cruise at 80 mph all day.
 
OP
I

Irish(London)

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Nobody has mentioned the four cylinder coupés yet. Can't comment on the 230, but we have a 16 valve E220 and it's been reasonably economical. Judging by your user name you might be making the odd trip to Ireland in it. We've managed to go from London, to Holyhead, with a bit of driving around Dublin, and on as far as Mitchellstown in Cork before refueling. Have done that twice, so it wasn't a fluke.

Have a bit of rust on the front wings as usual, and a small bit on rear wheel arch where it meets the bumper. Currently getting a quote on fixing that. Only large bills have been two front ball joints, and one rear spring.
And the driver's door window regulator, which was replaced 2 years ago, and has just gone again. Different mechanism to the saloon, and more expensive to replace.
The 2.2 is a bit less refined on the motorway than the 6 cylinder cars, (we have a 280 estate as well), and really could do with a fifth gear, but will happily cruise at 80 mph all day.


Cheers eyelight. I am buying this as a cruiser for wafting around london and occasional trips to Ireland and the continent.

Let me know what your quote is for that rust spot as I may have the same issue in the future!
 

Ian B Walker

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300td
I have an E220 Coupe too. Went from Preston to Montpellier on 2 1/2 tanks of fuel. They cruise well :)
 

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