W203 brake problem and car doesn't start

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Here it is again with the hole right at the bottom on the right just above 77
index.php
 
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mattuk

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when u say large and small terminal what do u mean?
 

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The large terminal has a big fat wire going to it, that has 12 volt all the time.

The other wire is still large but smaller, this one should have 12 volt when the key is turned to start.
 
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Looks like i need to lift the car up to gain the access.

I'll try to get it checked somehow and update later.
 

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The only other way is to remove the nearside wheel and rear section of the front wheel arch liner and that will give you room to test but not change it if faulty, when the key is turned to start you should hear a click from the starter, if all voltages are there, then a faulty starter
 

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Not read all the tread but there is a "mod" on the starter ring gear for this fault when the starter tries to engage and doesn't, it just sort of clicks. Mercedes have a special graphite grease that you put on the ring gear. You have to wind the engine round by hand and apply with a brush, not too much as it will contaminate the crank sensor.
 

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Not read all the tread but there is a "mod" on the starter ring gear for this fault when the starter tries to engage and doesn't, it just sort of clicks. Mercedes have a special graphite grease that you put on the ring gear. You have to wind the engine round by hand and apply with a brush, not too much as it will contaminate the crank sensor.

Thank you Ian, the car has been very dead, and no cranking at all so maybe starter motor.

The graphite grease is for where the car cranks but does not start due to static on the flywheel, this static voltage confuses the CPS, the rev counter is the clue on this one where when the car will not start the rev counter flicks up to about 2k, we have had a few doing this this year. Please not this info is for other members reading.
 

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Thank you Ian, the car has been very dead, and no cranking at all so maybe starter motor.

The graphite grease is for where the car cranks but does not start due to static on the flywheel, this static voltage confuses the CPS, the rev counter is the clue on this one where when the car will not start the rev counter flicks up to about 2k, we have had a few doing this this year. Please not this info is for other members reading.

Not always, the starter tries to throw in, but just clicks or chirps with no rev counter movement. I have done loads but not so many receintly. Could be a starter but grease is much cheaper to start with.
 

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It's not jammed is it ? ie. stuck on the ring gear.
I know it was a cause of lot of starter faults years ago.
 
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Hi guys

No luck with starter.

I'd like to work out with battery. My batt reads 12.33v as usualy was. I spoke over the phone with se electric/electronic guy and he said that voltage in this scenario isn't only one thing. What is important how strong is battery with amps. If battery is old and hasn't been driven often it looses is strength and will never recover as cranking needs a lot of ampers to turn starter or something like that.
Well battery is old and yes i didn't drive car a lotin last few months but i never had problems.

Because i don't know what to do now i decided to maybe jump start to see if works. Of yes then i know that need battery if not then i'll give car to someone for repair

I have seen jump start method on our forum but can't find it now. Does anyone got jump start instruction for mercedes please?(sensitive electronic issues)

Thanks
 

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Easy to check your battery for starting, turn the headlamps on, then try and start, if the headlamps go out while trying to start, then battery flat.

Not good jumping an early 203
 
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Easy to check your battery for starting, turn the headlamps on, then try and start, if the headlamps go out while trying to start, then battery flat.

Not good jumping an early 203

No lights don't even dim.
 

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No lights don't even dim.

Then possible starter motor, have you checked for 12 volt on the small terminal when trying to start
 
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yes everythink and everything is OK.

just been looking at fronnt Sam diagram and relays.

because i got n15/5 n15/3 and 47-5 communication codes and obviously starter issues so fuse 52 53 54 for starter

55 and 56 for unit n15/5 n 15/3 and 47-5. these fuses are OK but when i look at http://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/137604-relay-diagram-w203.html and download relay diagrams i see that these fuses are based on circuit 87. I haven't check relay K (terminal 87 chassis) and relay R (terminal 87 engine). if these relays are blown then there will be no power or current going to fuses 55 and 56 and 53 and 54. does it make sens or it's my own imagination?

what is terminal 87?
52 fuse is under circuit 50 what is it?
and also terminal 15 ?

please

thanks
 

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That is a lot to work out there, I will try later in the day
 
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Guys!

Please

i just pulled relay K (terminal 87 chassis) which is response for circuit for fuses 53 54 55 and 56(starter fuses, ignition i belive and n15/5 n15/3 and n47-5) i read Ohms and it vary from -0,015 to 0.432

as i was told good relay should read about 70-80 ohms. all relays read between 70 to 80ohms even R(terminal 87 engine)


does it mean that this Relay K is faulty and could be culprit?

thanks!
 
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SOLVED

OK guys

i went to eurocarparts for new relay. installed in front SAM and...crank and engine started without hestitation!! gearbox works i can change p r n d again and brakes are OK either. i left car running and everything is spot on back again!!!
i had esp message but i pulled steering wheel to the right then to the leff and to center. engine off, engine on again and no more malfunctions. i think that i did it correct right?

I am soooo happy at the moment. i am going for test drive this evening so will update if everything is OK on the road.

Thanks for Your help!!
 
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ok

i just went back from test drive.

everything is spot on as was before

Once again Thank You so much for You help !
 

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You have struggled but got there, more important you have learnt so much now, so pleased its all OK :D:D
 


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