W210 E300TD Oil Change - Another stupid question I'm afraid

[DaveK]

Hi again,

Sorry to ask a question which probably has a very evident answer, but is there anything unusual involved in changing the oil and filter on an E300TD? I assume it's just a case of removing the sump plug, draining it out, and replacing the sump plug using a new copper washer (I assume it does have a copper washer). I've seen talk of pumping the oil out through the dipstick tube. This really doesn't appeal as I'm sure there would be sludge left behind.

As for oil, what's best to use? I haven't even had a chance to work out what viscoisty is required. I notice a lot of debate about brands in the past with no real conlusion so I guess all I want to know is viscosity and whether to use mineral, semi, or fuilly synthetic.

Please bear with me on the stupid questions. I come from a history of Vauxhalls so I need to come up to speed on MB. But I can profer some advice - never use engine flush on an older engine. I have seen plenty of cases where this has caused engine failure. Any baked on oil deposits can become loosened and may then block an oilway with disasterous consequences.

TIA
Dave K

 

[imported_dieselman]

W210 E300TD Oil Change

The spec is 10W40 diesel oil to MB 228.3.  Most semi-synth will meet this.  I run on Millers full synth 5W40 to give better extended life.

Engine flushing is a good thing but obviously if the engine is really sh*t up the sump needs removing to scrape the coke out first.   The main problem is that the pickup filter becomes blocked with coke from the sump.
Coked engines are not normally a problem for diesels run on diesel specific oil due to the extra dispersants in the oil and diesels running cooler around the head.  Coking is normally caused by a low grade oil or inadequate changes.
Warning:  Dont run a petrol engine on diesel specific oil as the ash content will cause a build up on the piston crown which  can cause pinking and so damage.

(Edited by dieselman at 8:31 pm on Aug. 8, 2002)