Waxoyle or something else ?

S.Speed

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Hi everyone,
I had the opertunity the other day to view my car underneath whilst it was up in the air on a 4 wheeled lift.
There were rusty areas mainly to the rear on the Diff housing and suspension linkage bolts and surface rust to the various suspension control arms / rods..
The rust isn,t rerrible but as the guy at "wheels in Motion" said, "You need to nip it in the bud before it sets in"..
I found the most annoying was the fact the bolts were the most heavily corroded..

My inclination is to spray waxoyle all around these areas..

My questions are:
Is it enough just to coat all affected (and unaffected) parts with Waxoyle or do I need to pre treat with something else first, then waxoyle..
I know Waxoyle claims to stop rust in its tracks and to cure it, but is this a fact?

What would you do?
 

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Wax oil every time and the best in my view.

Heat it up to around 18c and the spray outfits really work well, they only cost about £12

While you are at it, clean the lip around the wheel arches, just soak them in water and use an old tooth brush handle to get all of the mud out, dry it off and waxoil them well. I use a brush on the arches.

One small tub will do all of the car, there is no point in doing the plastic parts, and you have many plastic panels under the car including the insides of the bumpers
 

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Wax oil every time and the best in my view.

Heat it up to around 18c and the spray outfits really work well, they only cost about £12

While you are at it, clean the lip around the wheel arches, just soak them in water and use an old tooth brush handle to get all of the mud out, dry it off and waxoil them well. I use a brush on the arches.

One small tub will do all of the car, there is no point in doing the plastic parts, and you have many plastic panels under the car including the insides of the bumpers

Waxoil user for years on several vintage vehicles I have, rub the rust off with some coarse abbrasive, or wire brush, best is paint the waxoil on with a brush, it saves getting it everywhere, do on a hot day, and top up every year
 
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S.Speed

S.Speed

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Thanks for the replies..
Do you think there is any merit in removing the plastic wheel arch liners and spraying Waxoyle behind them on the inner surfaces of the wings and any other visible metal work?

Does anyone use the Tetraseal underseal?
I suppose this is just preventative and not a "cure" for rust thats allready established.
 

5907

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Thanks for the replies..
Do you think there is any merit in removing the plastic wheel arch liners and spraying Waxoyle behind them on the inner surfaces of the wings and any other visible metal work?

Does anyone use the Tetraseal underseal?
I suppose this is just preventative and not a "cure" for rust thats allready established.

I took the wing liners off when I was undersealing the wheel arches, it's definitely worth doing it properly and the liners aren't difficult to remove once the car is jacked up with the wheel off.
 

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I took the wing liners off when I was undersealing the wheel arches, it's definitely worth doing it properly and the liners aren't difficult to remove once the car is jacked up with the wheel off.

Few more tips for using Waxoil, best buy 5 litre cans, have paid as little as £13, the black is best for external, clear for inside panels or where white.

We allways brush on external, if you you do in colder weather, boil a bucket of water, and stand waxoil in, with cap loosened, goes on lovely.

Every new hgv I buy as a cab and chassis is allways wax oiled first Job.

If you are doing a rusty older vehicle, the rust on the bad patches will come back, when it does perhaps a year later, do again, and again, it will stop the rust in the end ! .............................. Proven user
 
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S.Speed

S.Speed

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Thanks for the advice..
Luckily the fine weather is not far off so I know what I shall be doing in the evenings after work..
I tend to do one quarter at a time then I dont rush through boredom..
Who knows, if I have my Porridge I may even do half at a time..

Thanks again..
 

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Waxoyl? on an older car

Hiya

Just bought a 230CE 1983, should I use the same approach to have it waxoyled or is it diffrent with an older car
 

Gonzo

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Hiya

Just bought a 230CE 1983, should I use the same approach to have it waxoyled or is it diffrent with an older car

Same boss ! you can follow the spray approach, or the basic like mine brush coat, read the above posts carefully !
 

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I waxoyled my old Beetle last year and I can see rust coming through, on my Mercs I use a paint brush and paint on old used engine oil, put plenty of news paper down first and just paint it on, not too wet mind as it drips.
also keep it away from any sensor connections.

jib
 

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I waxoyled my old Beetle last year and I can see rust coming through, on my Mercs I use a paint brush and paint on old used engine oil, put plenty of news paper down first and just paint it on, not too wet mind as it drips.
also keep it away from any sensor connections.

jib


I bet the poor sucker that has to MOT your car, curses you ! Rubber gloves up to his elbows !
 

HERBIEMERCMAN

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#1 10-04-2009, 12:53 AM
HERBIEMERCMAN
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Diy rustproofing "waxoil" & "hamerite".

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

hi everyone, i bought an e300. td. 7 seat. est. in 1997. at the 5 yr old point i waxoiled all the doors, tailgate, inner wings, bonnet cavities, fuel tank, cills and chassis. you mix 50% waxoil, 25% cheap engine oil and 25% white spirit. you drill 10mm holes at appropriate points and you buy some plastic plugs from your car bar to cap the injection holes. you need a decent oil gun and a compressor capable of misting the mixture such that the oily mist can be seen at the outlets on the section you are injecting. this completes the inner cavities which are not seen. now the hard part is the painted bodywork, you have to remove all the door seals, top and bottom suffer the most as they are wet even in summer months due to the sponge rubber. after drying and removing any loose rust you apply rust neautraliser fluid, it looks like milk, after 5 mins it turns black, the fe02 is now nuaeted. the black area is now coated with hermetite epoxy paint, this seals the affected area. inner edges of the wheel arches are done the same, it's only the outer visible edges as the inside of the wings, above the plastic mud shields are coated in the waxoil mixture. i accept this is a messy operation but it works, i do not have any rust. when i move my car or open a door etc. the water just runs off, just like the ducks back. it is very sad that mercs are in need of this treatment unlike the bmw's, but i have a merc and rust has to be a non starter, like many things on the merc's list of woes you have to sort things yourself unless you can afford a post 2004 model with the galv. treated panels. i am quite happy with my waxoil mix, my father introduced me to it in 1960 on an austin sixteen which he wanted to stop rusting. herbiemercman.
 

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I waxoyled my old Beetle last year and I can see rust coming through, on my Mercs I use a paint brush and paint on old used engine oil, put plenty of news paper down first and just paint it on, not too wet mind as it drips.
also keep it away from any sensor connections.

jib

Please excuse me from saying so but used engine oil will make it rust faster. There was a big article in the trade press last year that gave all of the reasons why one should not use old engine oil.
 

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Thanks for the replies..
Do you think there is any merit in removing the plastic wheel arch liners and spraying Waxoyle behind them on the inner surfaces of the wings and any other visible metal work?

Does anyone use the Tetraseal underseal?
I suppose this is just preventative and not a "cure" for rust thats allready established.

Tetra seal was developed for the Swedish market and is very thin and hard to use, the idea being the you could treat your car in winter at minus degrees. It is good and has excellent self healing properties
 

Xtractorfan

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Many people believe that mixing waste oil and waxoyl is a good idea... It will certainly make the product go further, but in general waxoyl has been manufactured to creep into cavities and inacessible areas, and works perfectly well at stopping rust.. The only time I mix it is with the body schutz or black underseal when doing chassis rails or exposed areas as the waxoyl stops the underseal from hardening and cracking...
 
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S.Speed

S.Speed

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Hi Everyone,
This afternoon I decided to take the bull by the horns and do the rear of my car..
I removed both rear wheel arch liners and have to say that it is in excellent condition under there.
I have a Pump up Garden sprayer (I think its called Killerspray or something) which holds about 5 litres of various liquids for fence spraying / weed killing etcetera..
I thought I would give this a go as the spray attachment you can buy with the waxoyle system leaves a lot to be desired..
I thinned it but only very slightly.. I would say I added about 5% white spirit and shook it up in the sprayer..
I pumped it up and then set to work under the wheel arches and also on anything metal atound the suspension and final drive unit..
The Garden spray worked very, very well indeed. It was actually quite enjoyable to do..
I set it on a fine mist and then did all the suspension components and even the springs (Which are brand new on the rear). I used a brush to paint in on all the suspension/anti roll bar bolts etc. I also brushed around the lip of the wheel arches..
In fact I got quite carried away and went grovelling under the car on my back to spray all around the chassis cross member..I Literally sprayed everything made of metal..
I did take the precaution of covering the discs / calipers in a plastic bag.

Have you ever noticed that after you have got covered in muck and grime when doing some form of DIY, your car seems to drive so much better and feel so much smoother..
The only downside is that it stinks at the moment of the white spirit but this will pass in a day or two.. Its a small price to pay for piece of mind.
The rust I had noticed a few days ago whilst my car was up on the ramp at Wheels in motion, was nothing like as widespread as I feared..
When we next have a fine evening I intend to do the same treatment to the front.

Lastly I bought a Clarke 3 ton jack from Ebay a few days ago and it makes childsplay of lifting up even the weight of a Merc..
I particularly like the very wide lifting height range.. 125mm - 520mm
Its a heavy beast but its so very well made and easily up to the job of a keen car DIYer.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=180345798669

My old jack was past it and untrustworthy even to lift the car up for axle stands..

All in all worth every penney I think.
 

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I love the way that you are getting stuck in so soon,, I think that it is one of those jobs that if you do not do it in the first few weeks, it never gets done.

I think that the smell is quite nice, I use an old spray gun, as I have a spray plant, and yes the car does drive nicer when its done, but I have never found out why
 

HERBIEMERCMAN

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hi malcolm / simon, i like waxoil fans, following the waxoil treatment you have carried out one does get a feeling of assonance ( the feel good factor ), however the mechanical facts also support your feeling in that there is a noise and ease of movement reduction in the many ride quality components, also on a dry day following a previous wet day, just move your car, lift your bonnet or open a door and watch all the corrosive water run out. i mix 25% clean new mineral oil with my waxoil, only for spraying, everywhere else waxoil goes on neat. old engine oil is acidic and smells, after some weeks when the esters have evaporated ( the anti corrosion good bit ) then you are left with the corrosive acid bit, this is still better than no protection, but not good. just a final tip, if you are treating an area say under a wheelarch where there is driven water, then bitumous underseal is better, even waxoil will decay in this environment. the post 2004 mercs are galvanised, but this is only the inside of the panels, the rest of the car is NOT protected, this only concerns long term owners not the 3 yr car swap guys. herbiemercman.
 
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S.Speed

S.Speed

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Herbiemercman..
The under wheel arch I refer to is actually behind the wheel arch liner.. Therefor there is no direct contact with the spray from the wheels..
In the absence of a wheel arch liner then I would definately agree that a bitumen type sealer (Tetra seal for example) is the way to go..

Many years ago when I first started to use Waxoyle I read on the tin how it "repairs" itself if scratched off..
Being a naturally pessimistic type I used a screwdriver to scrape some away from the wheel arch.. The next day it had indeed healed over..

Yesterday I almost by accident discovered how very good the garden sprayers are for applying Waxoyle..
The one I use is below:
http://www.garden4less.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=4518

It really does make the job easy and enjoyable.. The "Long Lance" gets to the nooks and crannies that would be very difficult with a paint brush..
 

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And I think that in 2 years time,just one morning doing the important bits again is not much to ask, At the same time it gives you a chance to look at disc and pads along with bushes etc.
 

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