We did the ATF change on 1997 W210

Parrot of Doom

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Did the job today, although I was really a spectator as my mate did most of the work. Its actually quite straightforward, and I took some piccies as well. Most of the piccies are from the rear, looking forward (you can see the exhaust and cat on the right).

1) Make sure the engine and gearbox are up to running temperature

2) Drive car onto ramps, leave in neutral with engine off

3) Lift the car up on the ramps

4) Remove the plastic cover protecting the pan (about 8 self tapping bolts with washers)

5) Remove the drain plug (allen key) and drain the ATF into a bucket, only a couple of litres will come out of here:

drain%20plug%20removed%20from%20pan.jpg


6) Leave until its stopped dripping, and then remove the pan (6 torque bolts). Gasket is attached to the lip of the pan. Be careful there will be a litre or so of fluid in the pan, so hold it steady! Once its stopped, you should be looking at this:

pan%20off%20and%20old%20filter%20in%20place.jpg


7) Remove old filter, this is the hole it plugs into:

old%20filter%20removed.jpg


8 ) Wait for drips to stop

9) Reattach the pan, loosely - this stops more ATF dripping on your head while you're draining the torque convertor

10) Hunt for torque convertor drain plug - as luck would have it, the bugger was nowhere to be seen, so my mate pushed the flywheel around with a thick screwdriver. It took about 10 minutes, but slowly he managed to turn the flywheel enough and reveal the drain plug. He was pushing the wheel to the right as he stood - thats anti-clockwise as you're behind it (ie facing forward). You can see the plug below:

torque%20convertor%20drain%20plug.jpg


11) Remove drain plug, hold bucket underneath. About another 3-4 litres should come out of here, and quickly too:

torque%20convertor%20drain.jpg


12) Wait for everything to drain, then reattach the plug. We fitted the washer backwards, to make a better seal.

13) Put new filter into position

14) Clean the pan, put new gasket on the edge (fits beautifully), bolt back into position. The design of the bolts means you can't damage the pan by overtightening, which I thought was clever.

15) Put the drain plug back on the pan, and nip tight. Its an aluminium bolt so be careful.

16) Put the plastic cover back in position

17) Lower car on ramps, open bonnet, remove filler cap (screwdriver may be required)

18 ) Get a funnel, and pour the new ATF down. Go slowly.


We didn't have a dipstick, so we filled her up with the same amount as what we drained. I did this by collecting the old ATF in the same bucket, and pouring it into each empty bottle of new ATF we used. Once the bucket was empty, we stopped filling it up. I'm going to take it to a nearby indy and have it checked just to be on the safe side.

The differences are quite subtle, certainly upchanges are much smoother, although downchanges are most pronounced, particularly after using kickdown. The car moves into gear from neutral more quickly, I'd say maybe 1-2 tenths of a second quicker.

The old ATF was very dark brown. It didn't smell burnt, and there were no metal filings or particles anywhere to be seen, so I'm assuming the box is fine and its just never been changed (167000 miles). My mate said we could have been draining the engine oil it was that black!

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tom.jeffs4/car stuff/merc tech/atf change/old atf.jpg

Obviously it goes without saying that we cleaned everything in sight with a rag and cleaning fluids, including the pan.
 

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Congratulations to be one of the few in the UK to do this, its quite common place in the USA and Sweden. You will find the box much better and smoother. Its mind over matter.

Malcolm
 

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This is a very good writeup - saved onto my computer for future reference :) Thanks very much!
 

malcolm E53 AMG

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Brilliant write-up!
I've saved the info for future reference. thanks for posting it.
Pity Haynes can't be bothered, hopefully sometime soon they will get round to the 210. Mind you, they would have to do a good job to match your efforts.
 

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Hi All !
This is an interesting thread.We have just chopped our A170 cdi in for an E320 cdi estate.The gearbox oil change is an important issue.
A Friend of mine runs a Chauffeur company and advises me to change the oil in the box of the new 320 asap. Most of his problems are gearbox related and have dissapeared since he started having the oil changed once a year.
Imagine my surprise when I rang my local indy to book the car in for a gearbox oil change "You don't need to change the oil its lifetime don't you know ? ".
Having read the numerous threads on this forum about autoboxes playing up guess what I'll be doing next week when it arrives !.
I can't wait to collect it and hope it's as good as you all say the 320cdi is on here.:D
Cheers
 
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Parrot of Doom

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Its certainly a lifetime fill - but that depends how long you want the lifetime of the box to be :)

Most people seem to say around 30k is the correct interval, but its certainly less than 167k!!!
 
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Just to add, once you've filled her up, start the engine and work the gearbox (with the parking brake on) through the gears, back and forth and back and forth again and again. It'll take a minute or two before the ATF works its way around the gearbox. A bit like pumping brake fluid really.
 

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oil

Thanks Parrot
As said by others great write up and pictures say a thousand words.
One question though approximately how much ATF does the gear box take
To fill.
Once again Thanks
Mike J
 
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Parrot of Doom

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7 litres apparently
 
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Parrot of Doom

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Right, Greenvale in Whitefield very kindly checked the level for me, and it was about 1/4 - 1/3 a litre short. Thats not bad IMO, I was pretty close :) They also ran a diagnostic on the gearbox and the car in general, which came up with no problems.

Didn't charge me for it either, which is superb service (I slipped the guy a fiver for a pint though :))

The dipstick for the gearbox is a very simple bit of equipment. Basically all you need is a long spring (like you find on a drainpipe auger), the important bit is the plastic tab at the end which has the measurements on. If I could get a copy of that tab then it would be very easy for anybody to make one up. The length of the spring handle is unimportant, quite a bit of it pokes out the top when the measurement is taken.
 
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Parrot of Doom said:
Most people seem to say around 30k is the correct interval
My local indy reckon every 80K, i.e. annually for me, but ATF degrades over time and 30K could equate to up to 5 years judging by some members' mileages which would be quite as long as I'd want to leave it.
 

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just a word!

just a word of warning!!!!! please please please ensure you use the correct fluid. ie: if the switch next to your gearshift has w&s you MUST USE FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL. if it has e&s atf dextron 11 is fine.
the reason being that the electronic boxes must only have fully synthectic.
i have personaly seen 2 electronic boxes rendered useless because of incorrect fluid.

sorry if i scared anybody.
kind regards ted
 

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Very good pictures. I have done this often on a W124. A couple of points. I change fluid at 18K and fluid and filter at 36K. Oil costs £10, gearbox costs £2000!
I would not leave the gearbox exposed longer than you need to as the gearbox MUST be kept very clean. Leaving the sump off can expose it to dust from blowing grit etc. Better to drain the torque converter and then have the sump off quickly.
Finding the draining plug is difficult. But once it is established, I then painted a white mark with Tippex at 6 o/clock on the front engine pulley. In 18k miles time you can find it easily.
 

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OK, I had my Yr 2000 E320CDI W210 026 in for an ATF change at my MB dealer today. Watching the tech do the change I was concerned that the Torque Converter was not going to be drained (had been told by one of the team leaders previously that it was not possible to drain it). I had the team leader I normally deal with show me the car and he and the tech said that there was no drain plug for the torque converter on mine but earlier 210's had one. The tech said he had been turning the flywheel and showed me whilst I watched, but there was no drain plug.
Now re-reading Parrot's guide his mech took 10 mins to turn the flywheel until the drain plug became visible.
So is there really a drain plug on mine and they didn't find it :confused: :confused: :confused: or have I had half a job done correctly. Only 4ltrs of ATF was refilled so the torque converter was still full of old ATF :( :(.
 

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Blobcat said:
OK, So is there really a drain plug on mine and they didn't find it :confused: :confused: :confused:

I believe it was around the year 2000 that MB discontinued fitting drain plugs to their torque converters.
 

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panason1c said:
I believe it was around the year 2000 that MB discontinued fitting drain plugs to their torque converters.

Feeling slightly better - thanks :neutral:.
Can anyone (Malcolm) let me know definitively?
 

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Parrot of Doom said:
The dipstick for the gearbox is a very simple bit of equipment. Basically all you need is a long spring (like you find on a drainpipe auger), the important bit is the plastic tab at the end which has the measurements on. If I could get a copy of that tab then it would be very easy for anybody to make one up. The length of the spring handle is unimportant, quite a bit of it pokes out the top when the measurement is taken.


Here is a pic of the 722.6 tranny dipstick........the recommended level is halfway between the max and min marks on the upper 80 degree scale with the tranny at full normal working temperature.
 

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Blobcat said:
Feeling slightly better - thanks :neutral:.
Can anyone (Malcolm) let me know definitively?

There isn't one,if it's there it take's no time at all to find it.Turn the engine over
using a socket on the crank nut...not the method shown using a screwdriver.
The way to change the oil is to disconnect the oil cooler lines
running to and from the radiator and pump oil in under pressure.
If the equipment to do this is not available I would suggest the dilution principle...change the oil again in the near future.
This may be beneficial as any accumalated dirt will not be disturbed.
As your not dropping the pan next time it's no different than changing your engine oil... DIY easy.



adam
 
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panason1c

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Blobcat said:
Feeling slightly better - thanks :neutral:.
Can anyone (Malcolm) let me know definitively?


I found this on a US site, the subject is regarding the TC drain plug on the 722.6 box....looks fairly definitive enough to me ;)


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Those (TC drain plugs) were elimated in the 2nd production month od 1999....however on some cars we have found that they were not on any 1999 model year car!
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panason1c said:
I found this on a US site, the subject is regarding the TC drain plug on the 722.6 box....looks fairly definitive enough to me ;)

Those (TC drain plugs) were elimated in the 2nd production month od 1999....however on some cars we have found that they were not on any 1999 model year car!

Thanks - Now feeling a lot better :)
4/7's of the ATF is new as is the filter so although it wasn't a complete change it is better than not at all. The old ATF although not red was not black either, more of a browny-red (I'm sure there's a name for that colour), which IMHO after nearly 6 yrs and 107K miles is not bad.
I was not having any gearbox related problems, I just want to prevent my car from having any.
 


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