What is that on this picture ?

[Lexluthor]

Hi team.

It's my 1st post here so please, be cool with me cause each forums has its rules and I've perhaps missed someting (And I'm a frenchy and English language is not native for me).

Well, I'm a W211 diesel owner E220 and today, I've cleaned my EGR valve cause the engine sometime is going in low-power mode and smoking black. I've checked defaults by OBD and the DTC found told me it was probably the EGR valve (I've found a lot of help on this forum to do this work !!)

When I replaced my valve, I did a wrong move and I've lost a red part (A cap I think) into the engine bay, yes, it really disappeared

Now, I will make this part with my useful 3D printer and I want to know what is it exactly. I took a picture and now, I'm back to you to ask your help.


So... honnestly, I have 4 questions...

1st, what is this part for (On the picture).
2nd, where is the oil level rod (if there is one cause I know how to check on the cluster)
3rd : Cause I have to change it, which kind of oil do you use in this engine and which quantity ?
And 4th, I didn't find where to put my avatar in the control panel

Many thanks for any help.

 

[Wighty]

What is this on the picture

Don't know if it helps but a few threads down is a post for Diesel purge on an E270 (also posted today ) . The part you are asking about is clearly pictured as a red cap . Good luck

 

[television]

I am surprised that no one has answered, I know nothing about diesels but it may jog someone who knows.

 

[Headhurts]

No idea on your questions but welcome to the forum and this reply will keep it current.

 

[ZZZZ]

Hi & welcome from me too.

No idea about the engine stuff - my mechanical prowess doesn't extend beyond air filter change, but hopefully I can help with setting up your avatar: you should see this menu once you click on User CP:

Then, after you click on Edit Avatar, you'd see this:

After that it just a matter of either linking an external image or uploading one from your computer/tablet, etc - just make sure it follows the [very restrictive] size requirements, otherwise it'll be rejected.

 

[television]

You cannot have an avatar till 30 post done

 

[ZZZZ]

You cannot have an avatar till 30 post done

Ah ... D'oh! I forgot about that.
My apologies

 

[television]

Ah ... D'oh! I forgot about that.
My apologies

That does not matter, yours is a good post

 

[Lexluthor]

Thanx for your interest.
Question #4 solved
Questions #1, 2 & 3 are still relevant.

I'm surprised too noone replied about this mysterious orifice.
I would have bet 1 or 2 hours, no more ;-)

 

[television]

Thanx for your interest.
Question #4 solved
Questions #1, 2 & 3 are still relevant.

I'm surprised too noone replied about this mysterious orifice.
I would have bet 1 or 2 hours, no more ;-)

You are right, so sorry, now there are some replies maybe a better day tomorrow

If there is a dip stick tube, it will be on the exhaust side, or at the rear of the engine, if the car has the 722.6 gear box, the filling tube will be at the rear of the engine with a sealed cap. If the car has the 7g box then no filling tube, I mention this in case there are 2 tubes at the rear of the engine, the engine one if fitted will have a removable plug.

 

[star]

That's the engine dip stick tube (no dipstick on this model). It should have a red blanking plug in it. The gearbox filler/dipstick tube is on the exhaust side at rear.

 

[Lexluthor]

That's the engine dip stick tube (no dipstick on this model). It should have a red blanking plug in it. The gearbox filler/dipstick tube is on the exhaust side at rear.

Wow, that's what I tought but I was not sure.

Question # 1, 2 & 4 solved
Questions #3 is still relevant.

When I do some searches on Google, I find that :

...And it looks similar as the one I had (80% sure) before I lost it.
However, this design with a kind of rubber piece is more complex than a simple plug and I hope I didn't broken a piece of it inside the tube...
If I'm right, I just have to make a simple blanking plug acting like the one on a wine bottle correct ?

And logically, if there is no dipstick on this model, the only way to check oil level is by the dashboard ?

 

[rf065]

And logically, if there is no dipstick on this model, the only way to check oil level is by the dashboard ?

Or if you want to check the level & be sure it's 100% correct, buy a dipstick from e bay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111817045011?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Russ

 

[umblecumbuz]

Yep - cap it off with anything that does the job.
That's called a 'workaround'! Good engineers do it all the time.

Same with the oil really. Some on here are extremely particular about using MB approved low ash oil.
I'm a heretic, and I use fully synthetic 10/40 in my S204 (similar engine to yours) that may not have MB approved stamped on the can, and I always change the oil and filter in tandem. Nary a problem so far after decades of MB ownership.
Hopefully that gives one answer to your third question.

Umble.

 

[DREAMER NO2]

Welcome to the forum . My advice is dont start your car till you find the part you have lost down in the depth of the engine. If you do start it , then it may end up inside some moving part like the belt or some other vital part that can, and will damage the engine for good. Took me ages to find a bolt i droped inside .I did get to find it in the end ,and with a magnet lifted it out .The bolt was stuck in the pully for the power steering belt.

 

[Lexluthor]

...if you want to check the level & be sure it's 100% correct, buy a dipstick from e bay.[/url]

Perfect, that's what I'll do.

.../... cap it off with anything that does the job .../... I use fully synthetic 10/40 in my S204 (similar engine to yours) that may not have MB approved stamped on the can .../... Hopefully that gives one answer to your third question.

Yess it does, if 10W40 is what the engine need, I'll buy some 10W40 and no matter about Benz logo on it, and thanx for your "workaround" confirmation.

Welcome to the forum . My advice is dont start your car till you find the part you have lost down in the depth of the engine. .../...

I know that but the car is parked on the road side and I can't lift it, I'll pray and chance !!

Lot of thumbs and thanx for your support guys.
The knowledg level and sympathy here is definitely different than in my country.

All questions are solved now and I've learnt more again.

You made me happy

 

[Botus]

These days oil spec gets complicated, but there some basic stuff.
I would use a 5w40 B3 SL.

The B is ACEA European diesel spec, (Diesels run a higher detergent in the oil) A3 is most petrol cars, the higher the digit the better the oil. So if its tuned up or driven hard a B4 or B5 is better. The SL bit is American the closer to Z the last character the better the spec.

The 5w40 is cold and hot oil temp viscosity, the lower the first digit the better for cold starts but on older car I would go 5 not 0 and the last digits 40 is common for up to 35C ambient temp. But for emission and fuel consumption reasons only (with increased engine wear) many manu now say 30

The other common factors are

1) high shear (motorbikes with engine and gearbox sharing the same oil or odd ones like cars like VAG PD diesels where the pump rips the engine oil to bits)
2) wet clutch, motorbikes that run the clutch with the engine oil

In both of these instances std car engine oil, will induce mild clutch slip and gets smashed to bits in under 1000 miles by the gearbox and starts wearing everything out

When your car was made B2 SH could have been the best oil spec available

After all that, you should read the manual as it clearly says what they recco, not a bunch of amateurs on the internet

​

ACEA (Europe)
ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Européens d'Automobiles) performance/quality classifications are arguably more stringent than the API and ILSAC standards.

A/B: gasoline and diesel engine oils

ACEA A1/B1 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a high temperature / high shear rate viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s for xW/20 and 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s for all other viscosity grades. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

ACEA A3/B3 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines and/or for extended drain intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and/or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer.

ACEA A3/B4 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and direct injection diesel engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3.

ACEA A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate (HTHS) viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

​

API (American)
Engine lubricants are evaluated against the American Petroleum Institute (API), SJ, SL, SM, SN,

​

JASO (Japan)
The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) has created their own set of performance and quality standards for petrol engines of Japanese origin.

For four-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO T904 standard is used,
Particularly relevant to motorcycle engines. The JASO T904-MA and MA2 standards are designed to distinguish oils that are approved for wet clutch use, with MA2 lubricants delivering higher friction performance.
The JASO T904-MB standard denotes oils not suitable for wet clutch use.