Loud turbo spoiling noise on my SL600 2006

V6Matty

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Probably a little more expensive, the problem you’ll have is sourcing the right box for your car, the 600/63/65 had different internals to take the larger tourque from them, that said if it’s only from warm then maybe just a fluid change will help, when was it done last?
 
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Ahmed Maki

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Probably a little more expensive, the problem you’ll have is sourcing the right box for your car, the 600/63/65 had different internals to take the larger tourque from them, that said if it’s only from warm then maybe just a fluid change will help, when was it done last?
I just checked, it was done only 15000 miles ago in July 2015!
 

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try dumping the trans oil and filter, esp if you dont know when /if done previously ,not much to loose and when you see filter you might learn something .outside chance of improvement. could be slipping due to crxp in the system/restricting something , clutching at straws a bit but its where i would start you get away with it for 10 min cos oil cold at start up,i would suggest.

just seen post ref oil change, would still do it. as well as looking at filter take a good sniff of the oil if slipping you should be able to see color and smell a big difference between new and old, if it ,as likely smells pretty burnt and is a darker dirty color yr in for a rebuild or replacement. at that point i would go for a reputable, warrantied rebuilt, i could not face fitting a used box and having to repeat the performance again getting that in /out wont be a five min job....
 
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@Ahmed Maki - where do you live? - maybe someone can recommend a good independent MB specialist to you, who has a STAR diagnostic - and can check and repair the car correctly.
 

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Thanks matty. The slipping only starts after half an hour of driving. Would a rebuild be cheaper than a complete replacement (used)?
Used might turn out cheaper, try Dronsfields or 3 pointed parts amongst others
 
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Ahmed Maki

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@Ahmed Maki - where do you live? - maybe someone can recommend a good independent MB specialist to you, who has a STAR diagnostic - and can check and repair the car correctly.
I live in Holloway, London. I found a place nearby called hornsey transmission. Do you know anywhere else?
 
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Ahmed Maki

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try dumping the trans oil and filter, esp if you dont know when /if done previously ,not much to loose and when you see filter you might learn something .outside chance of improvement. could be slipping due to crxp in the system/restricting something , clutching at straws a bit but its where i would start you get away with it for 10 min cos oil cold at start up,i would suggest.

just seen post ref oil change, would still do it. as well as looking at filter take a good sniff of the oil if slipping you should be able to see color and smell a big difference between new and old, if it ,as likely smells pretty burnt and is a darker dirty color yr in for a rebuild or replacement. at that point i would go for a reputable, warrantied rebuilt, i could not face fitting a used box and having to repeat the performance again getting that in /out wont be a five min job....
Thanks for this, it's the best plan of action. There is a chance that the coolant may have leaked in the transmission system, so checking the oil and filter is going to be my first step.
 

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post when you find out.hope you wriggle.
 

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changing trans fluid won't resolve worn components,

at that age and having never had an oil change, two major issues are very likely and the third worth doing when the whole thing comes out for a refurb

1) I would very much expect the 600 quid electro plate has died (they do that) y3 6n is related to that component

2) if your getting errors for slipping, its again likely to go back to damaged seals due to the oil being so dirty and full of material its ripping O rings to bits.

3) TC clutch will be shot, may as well swap whilst rebuilding the rest

13 year old fluid will be black, smell of trashed innards and have lots of metal in it.... and that's what to expect from a low power model that's still OK
 

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Don’t know how you feel about a bit of a run to AMF Automotive, @alexanderfoti is a real enthusiast and has a 65 himself so knows them very well.

Thanks Matt, @Ahmed Maki it does sound like you have an internal fault in the box, but proper diags do need to be done. Rebuild will be more costly than second hand replacement, but the V12 does like to eat boxes so the second hand box may be the same.....

You will need to source a 722.649 for your car, but feel free to give me a call if you have any questions.
 

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changing trans fluid won't resolve worn components,

at that age and having never had an oil change, two major issues are very likely and the third worth doing when the whole thing comes out for a refurb

1) I would very much expect the 600 quid electro plate has died (they do that) y3 6n is related to that component

2) if your getting errors for slipping, its again likely to go back to damaged seals due to the oil being so dirty and full of material its ripping O rings to bits.

3) TC clutch will be shot, may as well swap whilst rebuilding the rest

13 year old fluid will be black, smell of trashed innards and have lots of metal in it.... and that's what to expect from a low power model that's still OK
Aft flush and change 15k and 3 years ago so it has been done.
 
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Ahmed Maki

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Don’t know how you feel about a bit of a run to AMF Automotive, @alexanderfoti is a real enthusiast and has a 65 himself so knows them very well.
If my local transmission specialist can't deal with it, then will talk to AMF (I hope the car can make 50 miles!)
 

alexanderfoti

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If my local transmission specialist can't deal with it, then will talk to AMF (I hope the car can make 50 miles!)

We can arrange recovery for you too!

Does sound like it could potential have a boost leak in addition to the gearbox issue.
 
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Ahmed Maki

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changing trans fluid won't resolve worn components,

at that age and having never had an oil change, two major issues are very likely and the third worth doing when the whole thing comes out for a refurb

1) I would very much expect the 600 quid electro plate has died (they do that) y3 6n is related to that component

2) if your getting errors for slipping, its again likely to go back to damaged seals due to the oil being so dirty and full of material its ripping O rings to bits.

3) TC clutch will be shot, may as well swap whilst rebuilding the rest

13 year old fluid will be black, smell of trashed innards and have lots of metal in it.... and that's what to expect from a low power model that's still OK

When the transmission warms up, that distict smell comes out already, almost like burnt rubber and plastic!

It turns out the transmission oil has been changed 4 years ago, 15,000 miles ago, with was done by the previous owner.

The sound only occurs after about 15 mins of driving, then another 15 mins and power is completely lost as if it is in neutral. So then I would turn off the ignition then on again straight away, then I get a bit of power for 5 mins and so on...

The fact that this problem occurs only when the transmission is warmed up, is giving me false hope that it might just be dirty oil and filter with possible leakage from coolant into the system.

Thanks for the information. I actually think that you are right and there is component damage ranging from the solenoid, clutch, to the gears inside. I'm preparing for that scenario, but also hoping that it is just an oil job!!
 
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Ahmed Maki

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We can arrange recovery for you too!

Does sound like it could potential have a boost leak in addition to the gearbox issue.
Hi Alex, thanks for your reply! Have you ever had this type of issue with your SL65?
Mine is a 5 gear one.
There is no turbo boost issue at all, I made a mistake initially thinking the sound was spooling! The diagnostics show that it is a transmission issue. Also the sound is coming from the bottom of the car.
I'm just going to analyse/change (with assistance!) the oil and filter. If the problem turns out to be bigger than this, then I will call you directly!
 

LostKiwi

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The internal gears rarely wear enough to give trouble. The most usual problem with automatic gearboxes is burnt or worn friction materials in clutch packs and/or brake bands. On occasion sprag clutches also fail.
Star should be able to read fill times which will give a pointer to clutch pack state.
 

alexanderfoti

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Hi Alex, thanks for your reply! Have you ever had this type of issue with your SL65?
Mine is a 5 gear one.
There is no turbo boost issue at all, I made a mistake initially thinking the sound was spooling! The diagnostics show that it is a transmission issue. Also the sound is coming from the bottom of the car.
I'm just going to analyse/change (with assistance!) the oil and filter. If the problem turns out to be bigger than this, then I will call you directly!

It does sounds like you have potentially fried a clutch pack or a one way roller has broken up. How it goes into neutral on a test drive will determine where the fault is.

I have done worn TC lockup clutches and main clutches and done valve bodies with TC lockup issues as well. These engines kill the K2 and K3 clutches and they wear much quicker than others. I have fully rebuild the box in mine.

I will think you will find debris in the pan, potentialy from a failed bearing. A whineing noise is often the oil pump in the gearbox failing, but see what the oil change does first.
 
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Ahmed Maki

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It does sounds like you have potentially fried a clutch pack or a one way roller has broken up. How it goes into neutral on a test drive will determine where the fault is.

I have done worn TC lockup clutches and main clutches and done valve bodies with TC lockup issues as well. These engines kill the K2 and K3 clutches and they wear much quicker than others. I have fully rebuild the box in mine.

I will think you will find debris in the pan, potentialy from a failed bearing. A whineing noise is often the oil pump in the gearbox failing, but see what the oil change does first.
Thanks Alex. I may be guilty of wear the one way bearing. A year ago on a few occasions i stupidly engaged transmission from high revs i.e. switched from neutral to first on 3000 rpm. Ever since I started to feel the car roll back whilst in first (min revs) on an incline. I have to accelerate to remain stationary!!
I think that is what started this current problem. I was stupid, and definitely regret doing that.

I will post an update on the oil/filter change very shortly.
 


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