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Dear all, I need a new voltage regulator for my W123. It has the usual Bosch alternator. I'm considering a BERU voltage regulator but they come in differing voltages - which is correct for my car? 230TE 1983 auto MB part number is A 002 154 42 06 With thanks and greetings from Berlin.

Thank you - it is a 230TE - M102 - shall snap a pic once it stops raining and I've had a chance to clean the engine bay...

Hallo. I’ve installed a new replacement auxiliary air valve just yesterday. And adjusted idle to 800/850 (warm) with the gearbox in P. Unsure if there is much of a difference tbh. The car always started on the button but I felt the idle at cold was a little low. This has improved a little...

No judgements about the parking pole please ;-)

Dear all, I have a 1983 230TE here in Berlin, Germany. It has around 295,000km (183,000 miles). Oil pressure has previously been good, 3 bar at cold start, dropping to around 2 bar when warm. Now I have this issue, at cold start, the pressure is around 2 bar... the needle is slow to get to 3...

M102 is a good motor, but it has some weaknesses. Yes, the oil filter housing is at the top rear of the engine, tucked behind the air filter housing.

Interesting... the head was just off (2 weeks ago) for the head gasket job. My mechanic sent me photos of the work... no paint bubbles to speak of. I think this whole saga started owing to pilot error, mine, the engine flushes. I am happy I did them but at the same time, I should have dropped...

It's a 230TE so no oil cooler.

Revs are a little high as the engine is cold...

Oil pressure back to normal with the new Mann filter. To be honest, any new filter would have given this result. I can only assume the engine flushes have caused this issue.

See the residue/ crud [emoji51] Lots of it. Filter is doing it’s job.

I've been using Mahle or Hengst, I believe these are better quality than the Mann-made ones supplied by MB. I have always used 10w40 according to spec MB 229.1 - brand doesn't matter so long as the spec is correct. I have just installed a Mann filter today, and the Hengst one, very very new...

Dear all, My car has a bizarre issue. The oil filter is clogging very fast, causing a loss of oil pressure. This has happened three times now. To test the situation, I removed the 'old' oil filter, which had been in for less than 100km, and started the engine, for 7ish seconds, the oil pressure...

Yes but not in this case... it was the head gasket. All sorted now.

Also 1,6mm which I would never consider getting down to. Most of the time, this car carts my family around, and I don't want to take chances. But 4mm seems OK - I've seen a good deal on tyres for my old S123 and wanted to double check before spending the money. I've been after a set of Dunlop...

Dear all, Whilst the legal limit is 1,6mm - what is a sensible thread depth? My summer tyres currently have around 4mm (Uniroyal Rain Expert) - around 7 years old, I need to check the DOT. With thanks,

So it turned out to the head-gasket - but this has now been sorted and the car is running nicely. Hoping no more major works for two-years now ;-)

Is that with the blue liquid that turns yellow, if exhaust gases are leaking into the coolant? Or when you say block test, you mean a compression-type test? I'm a very basic home mechanic... so apologies for the stupid question.

Hello all, For the past 8 months I've noticed a little white smoke from the exhaust... and a loss of coolant, especially at motorway speeds. The oil cap is clean, no milkshake-like sludge at all... No bubbles in the radiator coolant... The exhaust smoke is not constant, certainly not bellows...