ABS, ESP Currently Unavailable message

[steveq]

Last Sunday we were out for the day in my 2011 W204 C220 CDI. Shortly after starting the trip home I stopped at a junction and a message appeared on the screen:- ESP & ABS Currently Unavailable -- it was actually the symbols for 'ESP' & 'ABS' but you know what I mean.

I pressed OK, the message cleared but the ESP and ABS warning symbols remained. I continued on and the car seems to drive as normal.
We stopped later on and I switched off the engine. When I restarted the car the message reappeared. I pressed OK and the message cleared but the warning symbols remained.

When I got home I attached my trusty iCarsoft i980 to see if I could read the actual error codes. I assumed it was one of the speed sensors that had gone faulty.
The i980 showed the ESP option but when I selected it to view the values it showed 'Fault in Communication with Vehicle ECU' and 'Function may not be installed', 'Check ignition is on, Check OBD connection' etc.

Looking on here and elsewhere for that error, there were other reported problems which seemed to point to a failing ABS module.
Now we are getting serious !!??

I tried the i980 on my 2011 S212 E Class to make sure that I was looking at the correct function. I was able to go into the ESP function and show the values for each wheel.

I then started looking to see where I could get a secondhand ABS module.

I also tried updating the i980 to the latest S/W release which I hadn't tried since I bought it > 5 years ago. With a bit of difficulty and on an old laptop I was able to update it.
I tried it again on the C220 but no success.
I tried lots of options including saying that my W204 was a W212 (and other models) but still no success.
I also read that the battery condition is critical -- I charged the main battery and checked the small auxiliary battery in the boot (it was good).

I also looked up other OBD readers and after a bit of 'will I, won't I' indecision I have ordered an iCarsoft MB V2.0.

Today, I happened to google i980 and ESP and found out that there is an issue with the i980 reading the ESP values for a facelift C220 -- and, of course, mine is a facelift W204 !!

Hopefully the new MB v2.0 will get on better.

Of course, this won't actually solve the original problem but I am hoping that the diagnosis will turn out to be the biggest problem and the rest will be simple -- always optimistic !!!

Any tips or hints gratefully accepted.

I'll keep you posted.

 

[bertb1]

Fist thing is to get the car read
My w204 facelift did the same and it was a abs wheel sensor but when it broke it surged back to the module and damaged that

You may be ok and just the sensor needs replacing

I got the abs module from eBay and had it coded to the car


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[steveq]

Fist thing is to get the car read

Thanks for your response.
Yes, that is my plan when I get the MB v2.0 reader.

 

[steveq]

I received the iCarsoft MB V2.0 today.
It is definitely a big step up from the i980 in terms of speed, screen size, clarity and overall functionality.
More importantly for me with the C220 CDI facelift model, when I connected it up it was able to read the ESP module correctly.

I was able to clear the 'historic' fault which cleared the error off the dashboard display.
I then took the car for a run and almost immediately the error returned.
I looked at the stored error and it is C11202 "L6/1 Left Front axle RPM Sensor is unreasonable".
I then drove on with the MB V2.0 connected and looked at the wheel values.
Three of the wheels were showing the same speed as the speedo but the left front was just showing zero.

The good news is that it has identified the wheel and now it is a (simple?) matter of seeing if it is the wheel speed sensor or the reluctor ring.

 

[bertb1]

I had to change both on mine
That is before I had to then change the abs module


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mioba]

get both sensors changed across the axle. the other one will fail a week later.
don’t use non genuine parts. They will fail within a year.
It needs a good cleaning where the sensor goes.

if you do need a new module it needs coding to the car and they are not cheap

 

[bertb1]

get both sensors changed across the axle. the other one will fail a week later.
don’t use non genuine parts. They will fail within a year.
It needs a good cleaning where the sensor goes.

if you do need a new module it needs coding to the car and they are not cheap

I only had 1 sensor changed and it’s been fine
New sensor,new hug ring , module from eBay and coded all in £400 so not to bad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[steveq]

I unbolted the left front sensor from the hub and pulled it out.
The end of the sensor had grease on it -- maybe that is normal?

I cleaned off the grease and put it back in. No difference and the speed of that wheel still read zero.

I have ordered a new MB RPM sensor and will fit it when it arrives.

 

[mioba]

Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[steveq]

I received the new sensor and fitted it today.

It is reasonably easy to fit the sensor - the little size 10 bolt holding the sensor into to hub is awkward and needs an open spanner to remove.
The most difficult aspect is removing and refitting the rear half of the plastic wheel arch liner. A couple of bolts in the undertray plus the plastic nuts on the liner need to be removed to get it off. The plastic liner needs to be removed to get at the plug for the sensor. Refitting it is more difficult as each of the holes need to be lined up before any screws or nuts can be fitted.

When I got it all back together and I cleared the ESP fault and brought the car for a drive.
Good news -- No new faults were reported. I also looked at the speed reported for each wheel and the were all identical.
The near side sensor seems to have been the only fault.

I bought a genuine MB sensor but noticed that both the new sensor and the original faulty one that I replaced had the ATE logo.

 

[bertb1]

Nice one
Hopefully that’s the end of the problem


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Joseph Gill]

I have made a little video for this error as I couldn't find a fix anywhere on the internet. My solution was replacing the backup battery in the trunk of the car and that fixed my problem.

Here is a video explanation:

 

[steveq]

Well done and I hope the new battery resolves your problem permanently.

I replaced the nearside speed sensor last August as the speed on that wheel was zero while the other wheels were showing identical speeds.
Now, 4 months later but only a about 500 miles covered the offside front sensor failed. Same error as before and when I connected my new iCarsoft MB v2 OBD reader, it now showed zero on that wheel while all the others displayed identical speeds.

I replaced that sensor yesterday and all is well again. Again, I bought a genuine MB replacement part.

The biggest hassle for me was getting the plastic wheel arch liner refitted. It can be very fiddly getting it all aligned.

I know I was advised to replace both sensors when one failed last August but I just did the one that had failed.
To be honest, when DIYing the job it really doesn't matter whether they are both done together or as separate jobs. There is no saving in effort whether done together or separately.
I do understand that if they are being done by a garage it is probably better to get them both one together as it is more hassle and maybe more cost as well to get the car booked in and work done as two separate jobs.

 

[mattkh]

Thank you, great writeup.
Were you able to look at the reluctor ring. Any photos of the ring?

 

[steveq]

The reluctor ring is buried in the hub and not visible when replacing the sensor cable.
The sensor is attached to non-moving part of the hub by a small bolt and then the cable is plugged into into a socket (along with the brake pad thickness sensor) which is behind the wheel arch liner.