Has anyone got or used a Pivot/Tilt Car lift?

Blobcat

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Looking good :)
 

ajlsl600

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Good for 2.8 tonne.
 
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John77

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Well the first job done was to replace the bottom crankcase breather pipe and valve on a 2005 Eclass. As you have to get at the bolts under the compressor you really need the car up. Made it so much easier. I will do a gearbox fluid and filter change when I get chance. When I was under it, you seem to have good access to it all.
 

alexanderfoti

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Well the first job done was to replace the bottom crankcase breather pipe and valve on a 2005 Eclass. As you have to get at the bolts under the compressor you really need the car up. Made it so much easier. I will do a gearbox fluid and filter change when I get chance. When I was under it, you seem to have good access to it all.
Yeah, if it's a Kompressor engine, those three bolts are a 5 minute job from underneath or a 60 minute job from above.
 

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I bought one of these in late 2017. Made locally and delivered from Barnsley. I opted for the galvanised version. They come in several lengths and weight capacities. I ordered the big one, and it takes the s211 comfortably. the garage takes the estate with a modicum of clearance. The jack pictured didn't come with it, that was mine before. you can have it in the up, tilt, or flat on the floor position, depending on mood and need. Details can be found if needed.
 

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Myros

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the added bonus is , one you have the car up, you can remove the saddle and have a free run to trolley things out through the middle. I ought to add the ramps are thick steel, and weigh a fair bit. You have to add that on to the weight of the car and the lifting cabablity of your jack, which has to be of the low-slung variety. Mine is a 1850kg unit, and has managed all the cars. In reality, you aren't lifting the entire combo, just the portion of it over the saddle. Fetch the forum physicist...
 

HiltonMGray

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I have also purchased one of these John, but I'm struggling a bit to find a suitable power source - what sort of drill/driver are you using?
 
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John77

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I have also purchased one of these John, but I'm struggling a bit to find a suitable power source - what sort of drill/driver are you using?
Hi yes a drill will not cope with it. I just use a socket set and crank it by hand.
 

ajlsl600

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I intend to replace my lathe, Mill and scissor lift in the early. Mid spring of 24 lathe is already in the UK waiting transport opportunity.
 

HiltonMGray

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Hi yes a drill will not cope with it. I just use a socket set and crank it by hand.
Thats what I did the first time! But I'm getting old (and lazy), so I asked Autolift and they gave me the follow spec to lift a 3 ton car: Dill/driver with power rated at 1050 W and torque of 48 nm. I am enquiring now with various manufacturers to try and find one - so far Draper have said no.
 

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Electric rattle gun is what you need.
My 1/2" drive Ryobi claims to do 400Nm but definitely does at least 120Nm..
 

HiltonMGray

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Electric rattle gun is what you need.
My 1/2" drive Ryobi claims to do 400Nm but definitely does at least 120Nm..
Autolift unfortunately say specifically not to use an impact driver or hammer drill as it will stress the drive shaft and may damage it.
 

malcolm E53 AMG

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Autolift unfortunately say specifically not to use an impact driver or hammer drill as it will stress the drive shaft and may damage it.
I find it odd that Autolift can’t recommend a propriety drill for doing this I assume they think all users want to crank a handle for x minutes
 

HiltonMGray

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I find it odd that Autolift can’t recommend a propriety drill for doing this I assume they think all users want to crank a handle for x minutes
They have reccomended - but unfortunately being a Czech company they've reccomended tools that are not reddily available in the UK (and don't have particularly good customer reviews for reliability). And hand cranking takes about 30 minutes after which your arm is in no condition to do any work on the actual car!
 

malcolm E53 AMG

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They have reccomended - but unfortunately being a Czech company they've reccomended tools that are not reddily available in the UK (and don't have particularly good customer reviews for reliability). And hand cranking takes about 30 minutes after which your arm is in no condition to do any work on the actual car!
The Dewalt 1300W 240V drill might be man enough it’s rated to 40Nm
 

s5tuart

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My Ryobi drill would do it I'm sure. I don't know the specs but woe betide your wrists if it gets stuck and the clutch isn't working!!!
 

supernoodle

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Can't you use a torque wrench to work out the torque needed for your set up? I guess the weight of vehicle being lifted will mean everyone's requirements are different.
A dial wrench would be best, but I guess not everyone has one. If not set a normal wrench to say 60Nm, try and turn, if it moves without clicking off, turn out down 5Nm and try again. Eventually you'll find the torque needed. You can then use that figure to find a suitable drill/driver.
 
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John77

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The difference bet
Can't you use a torque wrench to work out the torque needed for your set up? I guess the weight of vehicle being lifted will mean everyone's requirements are different.
A dial wrench would be best, but I guess not everyone has one. If not set a normal wrench to say 60Nm, try and turn, if it moves without clicking off, turn out down 5Nm and try again. Eventually you'll find the torque needed. You can then use that figure to find a suitable drill/driver
The difference to using a torque wrench to LIFT a 1-2 ton vehicle would of course cause so much more stress than to just undue a bolt for example and would probably damage the torque wrench. I use hand crank as I do not have a drill that will work on this and it doesn't take that long to lift a car. Also how often are you actually need to lift your car a year?
 
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John77

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There must be a way of adapting/welding a correct size socket to one of these to crank it quicker.
11.jpg 11.jpg
 


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