POR 15 versus Fertran, Kurust et al.

[dieselman]

If only surface rust you can get this all cleaned up really well with the strip-it wheel i mentioned earlier. These are only a few quid and again do a far better job at cleaning a rusted surface than a sander or grinder will do as it wont take away any good metal ( or very little in comparison)

£7 each at Machinemart...got one today..

The question now is where can I buy a soda blaster for low air volume..

 

[falcoron]

£7 each at Machinemart...got one today..

The question now is where can I buy a soda blaster for low air volume..

Low air volume wont work with blasting. but the strip it wheel will cover 99% of cleaning duties and actually gets well into pits.

as long as you get some good zinc rich primer on quickly after cleaning ( wipe with white spirit and dry before painting as well) you will have some protection againt rust. depending how rusted it actually is and no water or damp ingress is getting through the metal from the other side you can pretty well get a good result with this method. just make sure to use a good filler primer after you zinc prime the bare metal, then cover this with the finish coats.

 

[dieselman]

Have you heard of Bilt hamber rust remover gel. They claim it actually removes the rust right back to shiny steel unlike a converter, which converts the top layer..

http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html

What do you think?

 

[falcoron]

Have you heard of Bilt hamber rust remover gel. They claim it actually removes the rust right back to shiny steel unlike a converter, which converts the top layer..

http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html

What do you think?

No this is a new one to me and like all adverts certainly reads well
its cheap enough to try i suppose and if it actually does get the rust away then all to the good as far as im concerned. May buy a small quantity and get it into work for a trial on mild steal i have left out in the elements for a while, if i ever get the time that is.
This web page is very useful as they do a good zinc primer which has a high zinc content of 90% this will give good protection. seem to get rave reviews from the classic mags (if you believe in such reviews)
better than anything you will buy from a car accessory shop. I think i'll get some and give it a go on my wee bits on the inner wheel arch lip then stone chip over to stop the stones breaking through again. I'll let you know how i get on with it.

 

[wemorgan]

To repair rusting suspension arms I've just bought this PO15 kit from Frost. It contains 3 pots of PO15 and 3 pots of chassis paint.

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9306&frostProductName=Chassis

It implies I use only the POR15 then chassis paint. But now in this thread I've read that after the POR15 I should use a zinc primer before the top coat.

Can anyone please advise.

Thanks.

 

[dieselman]

To repair rusting suspension arms I've just bought this PO15 kit from Frost. It contains 3 pots of PO15 and 3 pots of chassis paint.

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9306&frostProductName=Chassis

It implies I use only the POR15 then chassis paint. But now in this thread I've read that after the POR15 I should use a zinc primer before the top coat.

Can anyone please advise.

Thanks.

The zinc primer won't act as a sacrificial layer if not in contact with the steel.
It's a dilemma isn't it. I've previously used Bilt-Hamber hydrate-80 to good effect but this time have opted to use their super zinc-rich primer after de-rusting.

I think it's going to depend on how effectively I can de rust. It's no good painting zinc primer over any rust.

Of course, just when I want to get going it's raining..

 

[wemorgan]

The forecast for this w/e looks decent.

I plan to get the car on axle stands Firday after work, ready for an early KO Saturday. In between painting I've to; change HT leads and spark plugs, change gear linkage and replace all rusty under tray bolts. If I'm lucky I might even drive it over the w/e too.

 

[dieselman]

The forecast for this w/e looks decent.

I plan to get the car on axle stands Firday after work, ready for an early KO Saturday. In between painting I've to; change HT leads and spark plugs, change gear linkage and replace all rusty under tray bolts. If I'm lucky I might even drive it over the w/e too.

Ha ha, I know the feeling...

I might be busy over the w/e...might go to Stratford on Avon for a car do...and if truly nuts might even go and buy another from Gloucester en route..It's not really what I'm after being petrol, but it's a high spec in really good order, got T&T, low mileage and is going to be crushed otherwise...

Too many dilemma's, too little space...

 

[falcoron]

rust

just like to state that the pictures shown are not a merc. its my old mazda bongo. thinnest metal ive ever seen on any car.

only zinc primer on bare cleaned steel. you can apply a good 2 pack primer over the treatment then paint on the chassis paint

 

[pancholi]

Fantastic thread..
so is POR 15 all that it is claimed to be?
I used it 2 years ago on a 1971 Porsche floor pan. Seems to be still going strong..

 

[Rappey69]

To repair rusting suspension arms I've just bought this PO15 kit from Frost. It contains 3 pots of PO15 and 3 pots of chassis paint.

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9306&frostProductName=Chassis

It implies I use only the POR15 then chassis paint. But now in this thread I've read that after the POR15 I should use a zinc primer before the top coat.

Can anyone please advise.

Thanks.

The por15 starter kits have marine clean,metal ready(zinc phosphate) and then the por15 itself.
That is the rust protective coating.
On top of that would say you then paint straight on with your chassis paint.

 

[HERBIEMERCMAN]

it's horses for courses, no one can beat waxoil, but not in all instances. i have old cars and an old aluminium boat. if you go back to basics, you either seal from moisture and air or neautralise the surface.

how many of you remember "ziebart" it just kept out the moisture and air, but where the coating missed, the holes came.

people treat their central heating systems with anti corrosion additives, sentinel 100 and others, BUT unless the radiators are removed and fully flushed out then the additive is useless, as the sludge barrier at the bottom of all downstairs radiators will never see the additive and this is where the corrosion takes place, same happens on diesel engines where the cylinder liners and seals get below the sludge level. the radiator and engine manufacturers keep this info quiet, i wonder why?

with cars and boats you have to keep at it, nothing to date IMHO can be treated and forgotten, in humans it's called, cancer. herbiemercman.

 

[wemorgan]

To give an example of the job I have this w/e here's a photo of my wishbone

I guess I need to be careful not to get paint on the brake lines and rubber bushes?

 

[Rappey69]

with cars and boats you have to keep at it, nothing to date IMHO can be treated and forgotten,

Hmm, I too have an aluminium boat, built properly out of the right materials and will last a long long time as the only paint on it is the antifouling so practically zero maintenance.
the bare ally looks as good as it did 15 years ago.

 

[falcoron]

To give an example of the job I have this w/e here's a photo of my wishbone

I guess I need to be careful not to get paint on the brake lines and rubber bushes?

Strip it all out and clean as much as you can. Give that stuff Dieselman was talking about that removes rust ( not the crap that claims to change rust into solid metal again ) Well worth a punt and if it does actually clean back to clean steel then a good wash and degrease and paint with zinc rich primer, then 2 good coats of good filler primer ( preferably 2 pack ) then a good 2 pack chassis paint.

I had an old austin once and coated all that sort of stuff underneath with hammerite ( i was young and this was the bees knees at the time). I still know the car well and the guy that bought it from me has never repainted anything in the 17 years he has had it including the stuff i did all those years ago
but bare in mind this wee car only gets out about a dozen times a year and kept in a dry warm garage its still impressive performance for a pot of paint that only cost £2 at the time and was applied straight onto well cleaned bare steel.
Come to think of it i have an old gate out back i painted about 10 years ago with mammerite and that still is black, shiny and rust free.

 

[dieselman]

To give an example of the job I have this w/e here's a photo of my wishbone



I guess I need to be careful not to get paint on the brake lines and rubber bushes?

Fortunately that's all heavy duty steel with only surface corrosion.

I have used jenolite chassis paint in preference to Hammerite as it just seems so much more resistant to chips and breakdown.

I've had a look at my arches tonight and do believe the Bilt Hamber gel is actually dissolving the rust, though time constraints are now forcing me to move to the next stage, so I will go forward with their Hydrate-80.

Your bits would be easier to do as you can apply it thickly, leave it wrapped in clingfilm and tape it up for several days.

I will have some other bits to de-rust in a week or so so will try their dissolvers again.

 

[GEORGEROV]

Have tried all the usual suspects over the years as regards rust convertors/primers and the best for me is the one my company uses offshore. 'Aquasteel' , a Bayer-wood product. £45 for 5 litres on Ebay.

 

[wemorgan]

Photos of wishbones after two coats of POR15. Tomorrow I will add two coats of chassis paint. The small pots, 118ml, go quite far as I was able to paint 12 wishbones per pot.

 

[dieselman]

That looks good Will. How much prep did you have to do to the rust before applying POR?
Mine is going much slower as I keep having to wait for coats to dry. So far I've ground back, used the rust remover gel, painted hydrate-80 on in two coats, waited 24Hrs then sprayed a coat of stone chip protect.

Now waiting as I want to get another coat of stone chip protect on tonight.

Could do with top coating it inside the lip as well as I'm supposed to be busy tomorrow.

 

[wemorgan]

I sprayed it liberally with a degreaser.
Left to soak.
Attacked with a wire brush and cloth with bucket of diluted degreaser
Left to dry.

In all honesty, it's not a great job, but I hope at least it will slow the rust down. I guess only time will tell how effective it's been.