R230 Boot won’t open

[Ronnie11]

Hi all…..The lock on my SL350 has been a little problematic for a while but not a major issue until now.
Car been standing for a few weeks and tried to start it but key not being recognised by the ignition.
No connection whatsoever….
Aux battery definitely flat as no electrics, no command or hazards.
This is compounded by the fact the boot now won‘t open at all….
I have determined the only way to resolve the problem is to get in the boot and charge the Aux.
Searching the internet and I determined that the best way to open the boot is to remove the centre brake light
to access the locking mechanism….
Appreciate any advices on any other potential options, if not, any guidance on best practice and any dos/donts before I just simply “yank“ the lens out..

on

 

[Blobcat]

Have you cleaned and lubed the mechanical lock on the boot and tried the metal key?

 

[Ronnie11]

Have you cleaned and lubed the mechanical lock on the boot and tried the metal key?

Yea, I have performed ritual for sometime now, works for a while and then a little more lub and a wiggle of the key and a little bit of pressure on the boot lid and works a treat, until now !

 

[star]

Put the key in and out of the ign a few times and it should switch to the stater battery to allow the car to start.

 

[Ronnie11]

Put the key in and out of the ign a few times and it should switch to the stater battery to allow the car to start

I have been trying that and from memory it has worked before.
This time it doesn’t appear to be playing ball…but will give it a few more goes ..
Will
Advise if it does

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Yea, I have performed ritual for sometime now, works for a while and then a little more lub and a wiggle of the key and a little bit of pressure on the boot lid and works a treat, until now !

Hi, do hope you get in the boot some how. This flat battery business is one to keep on top of, unfortunately. I'm thinking of installing some fly leads to the boot battery and having them accessible from underside somewhere, so I can recharge if boot access fails. The ignition unit is famed for joints and connections going bad, some are easy fixable. On the point of the manual key and lubing, my lock doesn't fully rotate, it's gonna catch me out if I fail to prepare. Did you douse everything you can see from outside the car and on the key, using regular wd40 or similar? I hear graphite is best for locks.....

 

[peterws1957]

Hi, do hope you get in the boot some how. This flat battery business is one to keep on top of, unfortunately. I'm thinking of installing some fly leads to the boot battery and having them accessible from underside somewhere, so I can recharge if boot access fails. The ignition unit is famed for joints and connections going bad, some are easy fixable. On the point of the manual key and lubing, my lock doesn't fully rotate, it's gonna catch me out if I fail to prepare. Did you douse everything you can see from outside the car and on the key, using regular wd40 or similar? I hear graphite is best for locks.....

Ordinary WD40 on it's own is not much good for this job. PB Blaster is better. Regular spraying with graphite seems to do the trick. Last time we were faced with this I had to use pliers (but very carefully) to turn the key fully to open the lock. I've also considered the flying leads solution but since getting the SL into a garage with power and using a CTek it's not been necessary.

Hi all…..The lock on my SL350 has been a little problematic for a while but not a major issue until now.
Car been standing for a few weeks and tried to start it but key not being recognised by the ignition.
No connection whatsoever….
Aux battery definitely flat as no electrics, no command or hazards.
This is compounded by the fact the boot now won‘t open at all….
I have determined the only way to resolve the problem is to get in the boot and charge the Aux.
Searching the internet and I determined that the best way to open the boot is to remove the centre brake light
to access the locking mechanism….
Appreciate any advices on any other potential options, if not, any guidance on best practice and any dos/donts before I just simply “yank“ the lens out..

on

You can remove the centre brake light but it's a touch expensive to replace if you damage it! Unless the lock is broken or the operating rod has come adrift the key should eventually work with perseverance. Try PB Blaster and careful plier work. I wonder if both batteries are flat. Have you checked the starter battery for voltage?

 

[Ronnie11]

Hi, do hope you get in the boot some how. This flat battery business is one to keep on top of, unfortunately. I'm thinking of installing some fly leads to the boot battery and having them accessible from underside somewhere, so I can recharge if boot access fails. The ignition unit is famed for joints and connections going bad, some are easy fixable. On the point of the manual key and lubing, my lock doesn't fully rotate, it's gonna catch me out if I fail to prepare. Did you douse everything you can see from outside the car and on the key, using regular wd40 or similar? I hear graphite is best for locks.....

Key still not being recognised in the ignition.
Going to give it another go later.
On the boot lock, the metal key turns fully both ways. However, what I have notice in the past is that the “vacuum” or release mechanism needs to kick in and then it opens.
That’s not happening and I think it is because the Aux battery is completely dead..
Looks like the brake light needs to come off and get in that way..
Only option I can see at the moment

 

[Chrishazle]

On your car, do you have emergency jump points under the bonnet? I have on both my cars, and that's how I connect the conditioner to the SLK when she's in her garage. Might be a way of getting some juice into the system - not sure exactly how your dual battery system works!

 

[Ronnie11]

On your car, do you have emergency jump points under the bonnet? I have on both my cars, and that's how I connect the conditioner to the SLK when she's in her garage. Might be a way of getting some juice into the system - not sure exactly how your dual battery system works!

Problem is the key is not connecting to the ignition. It just goes in the slot and doesn’t turn
so a jump start will not happen

 

[Chrishazle]

If you can connect a charger to emergency jump points under the bonnet - if you have them, as I do on both cars - that may change things! As you can put the key in, seems you can open the car thus open the bonnet and see if you have similar emergency jump points - +ve will probably be hidden under a red plastic flip-up lid, -ve may be a brass rod close by - on the SLK I use one of the nuts of the top of the shock absorber mounting.

 

[Ronnie11]

The SL350 has a starter battery in the behind compartment, which I have access to, but with the key not engaging I cannot crank the engine…

 

[Ronnie11]

That should have read ENGINE COMPARTMENT

 

[ajlsl600]

Ordinary WD40 on it's own is not much good for this job. PB Blaster is better. Regular spraying with graphite seems to do the trick. Last time we were faced with this I had to use pliers (but very carefully) to turn the key fully to open the lock. I've also considered the flying leads solution but since getting the SL into a garage with power and using a CTek it's not been necessary.

You can remove the centre brake light but it's a touch expensive to replace if you damage it! Unless the lock is broken or the operating rod has come adrift the key should eventually work with perseverance. Try PB Blaster and careful plier work. I wonder if both batteries are flat. Have you checked the starter battery for voltage?

Wot about wd40 and a hair dryer. Hair dryer 1st get some warmth on then wd. Mind the paint.

 

[Ronnie11]

The starter battery is fully charged.
The key for the boot turns no problem, BUT from recollection there is a “release” switch that needs to kick in, this is more electrical than part of the lock mechanism.
This does not kick in and I am certain this is the issue.
I have seen a video online whereby you can force this manually by accessing the switch that needs to connect via the rear brake light..
Anyone actually tried this ? Or know if it will actually work

 

[s5tuart]

Worth a try?

 

[Ronnie11]

Worth a try?

Thanks for that but think it comes with risks of causing more damage than its sort, especially with myself having limited technical expertise

 

[Ronnie11]

This is the video I saw that gave me the idea…
Anyone with first hand experience if this that can recommend it being the best solution

 

[Ronnie11]

My concern is that there is no mention of it working if the Aux battery is flat

 

[s5tuart]

I wonder if it's worth taking the car to a local to you Indy to see if they can open it for you?