W124 Changing ATF

White230CE

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Hi all,

I need to change the ATF on my 230CE coupe. I have a Haynes manual which tells me how to empty the gearbox and the torque converter, so hopefully that will guide me most of the way. However, any practical tips would be appreciated.

Oilman has also advised me on which oil to use, so will be ordering that this week.

My question is about access and working environment.

Firstly, is it ok to do this job outdoors? Haynes says it should be a clean and dust-free environment, but I'm not sure what that means in practice.

Secondly, assuming that the car has to be level, is it safe to perch it on four axle stands? If so, where best to locate the axle stands? When I did my exhaust, I located them on the front sub-frame and the rear sub-frame, but not all at once. My concern is that when the stands are located on the sub-frames, they are quite inboard, and may not therefore be secure enough.

Is it ok to locate the axle stands on the jack stops? If not, where else?

Would really appreciate advice, as I do not want to be crushed, and it was scary enough doing my exhaust with only one end up at a time.

Many thanks
 

roadhog

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Are you changing the filter at the same time? For that you'll have to drop the sump and I would suggest that it's best done indoors.

Personally I would not get under any car which is propped up on four axle stands, wherever they may be located. The car only needs to be level to get the fluid level correct.
 

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I too cant really agree to using 4 axle stands, and getting right under the car. I use a stand or 2 stands plus the trolley jack, with 4 it could easily tip over.

I have left a car on 4, but not working under it, only when the wheels were away
 

turbopete

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i can only agree with Malcolm and roadhog. a car can all too easily be knocked off axle stands. the reason theyre used at all is in case a jack fails so the car wont drop onto you!
 
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White230CE

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Thanks guys for that crucial advice.

In that case, and if the car being level is only to get the correct level on filling, I will prop up only one end. Which end should I prop up in order to drain the gearbox and torque converter completely? Or is it a case of lifting one end, then the other???

I was thinking of changing the filter, but if that should be done indoors, then I will remove the fluid pan, take it indoors, change out the filter, then re-install the fluid pan. Would that be ok?

Thanks once again.
 
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turbopete

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i think that the filter is bolted to the bottom of the box. you remove the fluid pan then unbolt the filter if i remember right. thats how it looked on the last one i saw pics of posted up on here!
 
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White230CE

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Thanks Turbopete. According to Haynes, if I unbolt the fluid pan and take it off the underside, the filter is indeed bolted to the pan. It then says that I should unbolt the filter from the pan, give the pan a good wipe, bolt in a new filter, then refit the fluid pan to the underside. So I'm hoping I can unbolt the fluid pan then take it indoors to do all that, then put it back on the car.

Just that, while I'm busy sorting out the fluid pan and filter indoors, the underside is exposed and would that be ok if the car was outdoors on a dry day?
 
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White230CE

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Thanks Jet Tech. With the wind risk, I may have to consider letting a garage do it, as I have no way of doing it indoors. Will think on it.

BTW, do you (or anyone else reading this) know the torque settings for the various bolts that I have to undo, or is it not that crucial for this job?

Thanks.
 

brianbrian

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The filter is bolted to the bottom of the g/box four phillip bolts, not the pan. you need filter, rubber gasket and two new grub screws, plus 7.3litres of mercedes atf from dry . Hope this helps
 

The Crooner

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I did mine outside.

Whilst you have the sump off check it very carefully for rust, mine was just about to go through and it needed to be welded up, or replaced. We welded mine.

Nick Froome has also commented on having to change them.

I regret to say that on todays cars the sump would no doubt be plastic - in this instance a better choice of material.

Ouch, hurt me to say that.

Tony
 

Tashman

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I think the torque setting is crucial on the transmission sump.
Too tight and you can crush the rubber seal, too loose and it can leak. I remember thinking that the setting was looser that i had expected it to be.
 

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Is not the setting something like 7 or 9 mn
 
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White230CE

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Thanks all. I will monitor the weather forecasts and proceed accordingly.

Should I also have new O rings, seals, etc to hand? I aleady have a new filter, courtesy of previous owner.

As for torque settings, any definite confirmation of 15, 9, 7, or other number would be appreciated.

Thanks again.
 
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White230CE

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Socket size for crankshaft pulley

Hi again,

Can anyone please tell me what size of socket I need to turn the crankshaft pulley, to expose the torque converter drain plug? I can't check without removing the fan cowl, and I don't want to do that until I'm ready to do the whole job.

I seem to recall reading somewhere that it is 27mm and if so, I'll need to go get one before I start.

Thanks
 

television

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If its easy to take the sparking plugs out you can then turn it by the belt

The bolt does not look that big.,,I dso not know how I can check the size

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.412&CT=M&cat=504&SID=03&SGR=015&SGN=01


The drain hole where the plug comes out may enable you to turn the flywheel by the starter ring and a large screwdriver

I will look the torque settings up in the morning as the are higher on this box.

So that you do not come unstuck with a bad bolt,,slack each one by ½ a turn befre you take them all out,,so that you kow that they will all come out OK
 
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White230CE

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Thanks Malcolm, especially for the 'slacken every bolt' advice.

Is the nut number 47 on the Russian diagram?

Also, should I use new O rings and rubber seals when I refit the filter and pan?
 
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television

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A new gasket seal would not do any harm for what they cost.

Another thing re the bolts,,do take car with the ones in the corners, and do not apply to much pressure on these,,it has been known for folk to break the gear box casing in these area's-

yes 47 is the one,,when I look up the torque settings I will see if the size is mentioned,,but it seldom is
 

kth286

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crank bolt is 27mm and only turn it in one direction which must be the normal one.

torque the bolts as follows:

drain plug on T/converter 14 Nm

drain plug on oil pan 14 Nm

bolts on oil pan 8 Nm

New oil pan seal highly recommended.
 
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White230CE

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Thanks very much guys.

Kth, sorry for a daft question, but which direction is 'normal' please?

As an alternative, I've also been thinking of turning the crank by removing the spark plugs as Malcolm suggested, because the plugs are due a change, so could kill two birds with one stone, and avoid removing the fan cowl. Haynes recommend a particular type of Champion plug, so is that the type I should go with or are there better ones now?
 

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