w210 rear suspension noise after changing struts

[w210chap]

Hi, I've just replaced 4 of the rear suspension arms/struts on my W210 saloon - all of them on both sides except the main arm that the spring and shock attach to. Did this to try and fix a shaking that only occurs when I turn right especially going around roundabouts. The final arms I changed were the thin straight ones that the brake cable attaches to, that have the ball joint on the outer end. Only after changing them I now get a clunking noise when going over bumps, and sometimes when pulling away from stationary. I've had the tracking done at a garage with a hi-tech laser system that meaures all the geometries - still get the clunking.
Could it be that the ball joint nut is either too tight or too loose - I don't know what the torque setting is for this particular nut - I just tightened it as much as I dare (using an allen key in the end of the joint bolt to keep it from turning while I did up the nut). Does anyone know what the correct torque settings are for the rear arm nuts/bolts, or what else may be causing the clunking noise?
Any ideas greatly appreciated.
The car is an E220 CDI elegance.
Thanks in advance.
ps the new arms are all Lemforder, but appear identical in shape and size to the MB parts I took off.

 

[wireman]

Very tight, but only tighten the rubber bushes with the cars weight on the wheels to put the suspension in its normal working position.
Have you checked the anti roll bar and its links?
Are the diff mountings good?
Are the subframe front mountings good? The cars handling and cornering is affected by these, check for lift/droop when you take the weight on a jack.

Were any of the old parts bushes in a sorry state?

The Haynes 124 manual has a list of torque figures for the earlier but very similar cars.
from said tome:-
ARB mount 20Nm, upper link 30Nm, lower link 20Nm
ball joint 35Nm
m10 nuts 45Nm
m12 nuts 70Nm
lower arm inner 70Nm, outer 120Nm

 

[w210chap]

Thanks wireman

I didn't tighten the ball joint with the car's weight on it - I'll re-tighten them.
The ARB looks OK - I have new ARB bushes but have been reluctant to replace them as the nuts that hold them in are slightly worn and I don't want to round them trying to get them off and then they're stuck - guess its time to be brave and do them. I replaced the rear ARB drop links 3 months ago.
I'll check the diff mountings. I've previously replaced the front pair of rear subframe mountings so they're good. I've also replaced the rear coil springs and rear shock absorbers this year.
None of the old bushes were particularly bad, just slightly worn. The car's done 112,000 miles and sailed through its MOT just 6 months ago (the shaking had started before the MOT so I was a little surprised not to get some kind of Advisory issue in the MOT).
Thanks for the torque settings. I'll check them.

 

[television]

if struts creak after fitting, undo the top mountings, bounce the car then re tighten, this is what it says in WIS

 

[michaelr1946]

Regarding your query towards the end of your post re; torque settings for rear "arms", if you mean the wishbone ,( the item with the protective cover )
the settings are , rear axle end = 7.0kgm ( 50ft/lb) .
And wheel carrier end = 12kgm ( 86.5 ft/lb )

Alterrnatively ,if you meant the camber struts , the strut to rear axle setting = 7.0 kgm ( 50 ft/lb )
and strut to wheel carrier = 4.5 kgm ( 32.5 ft/lb )

Hope to have helped
Cheers Mike R.