W211 blue smoke after idle

[R0SSY]

I’m having same problem I got the car with the oil cooler seals gone so I changed them all new turbo n manni gaskets n seals was wondering if mine was from a broken piece of the batwing allowing oil into turbo but I have now got the uprated blue pipe on there was hoping it was just oil build up burning off in the exhaust but with all the posts I’m seeing about only smoking after idle for 5-10mins not to sure now so was gonna change the crankcase pvc and add a catch can see if that stops it I didn’t even consider the velve stem seals as it doesn’t smoke all the time just if idling and for a couple mins after left idling soon as I’m down the road it’s clear again get a little puff every now n then if I boot it but that’s manly after sat in a few sets of lights hope we can find out as it’s doing my nut in

I have the blue pipe mode too on the bat wing....it was I think originaly for the same motor in the Jeep (does not have the bat wing)...but as its the same motor and turbo it does the job!
So many have this issue but so few have a defo fix....I'm even thinking of trying Restore Engine Restorer as by many many accounts its one thats NOT a snake oil and realy does work! So if mine is blowby....and it gets better after using at least I know...if not its not going to do any harm......

 

[oigle]

I only do about maybe 3000 a year as have two Mercs...1 for Winter the ML (Limited to 3k a year) and then a CLS55K AMG as my toy (only did 1300 last year)! so a total of 4300!!!
Also its kinda had 3 services in that time.....I did my own service as I alway do for peice of mind when I got it Oct, then oil and filters with the remap Nov, same again last week with the inlet manifolds comming off and the oil cooler job! So hard to say!! LOL

I''ve not ruled out injectors....but only have iCarSoft MB and tho there are mixed things said about themneeding to be "coded" and then only needing that if NEW as no point coding if remanufactured one as they self learn tho again this only seems to be if the odd 1 is changed and I would want to change all 6. (if ones gone then the rest are not far behind obv) There are sets of 6 reman from Germany for £411 all in, which is certainly doable as new ones start around that for 1....but having just spent £2k its another load of dosh I will only spend if its a guarentee.....and I'm just not sure....
Would said leaking/dripping injectors give the impression there is more blowby? usualy wet bore = higher compression = less blowby?
When the Indi did the all the above they told me they had set the current injectors to "re-learn" mode....as a test...
And then theres the 3 turbos all wet on the hot side...i.e. the original (Which had play but the turbo place said its was only leaking from the back also)....the replacment recon I fitted, then the return under 5 year g/tee of the recon that they recored....but even the turbo place said they only ever seen them weap from the rear hot exhaust side with blowby or blocked DPF (mine is none DPF...i.e. never had one, not had one then removed, another reason I went for this one) I wondered if restriction on the exhaust (cats in my case) could potencialy give impresson of higher blowby?
I'm still convinced the "recored recon'd turbo" is still dripping but that its not faulty....that oil's being forced out because for whatever cause it cant get out as quick as its going in.....
Whats your honest thought on changing all 6 injectors for remanufactured.....i.e without coding via xentry/star?
Only ask as think I could do that myself....I did fit the 1st recon turbo....but oil cooler+purple seals/swirl flaps and motor I just new was a job for the Indi! (Which as it happens ended with the same turbo having a fresh core....hence effectivly 3 since Oct)!!

and....still smokes but ONLY when at operating temp and left to idle for 20min or so....so wierd...and trust me when I say I'm loosing sleep over it.....I am!!

Thats a long time to idle. Most vehicles will puff a bit of blue/black after a long idle like that.

 

[R0SSY]

Thats a long time to idle. Most vehicles will puff a bit of blue/black after a long idle like that.

Wish I had a Pound for everyone that said that...and they are not wrong....and its not a little puff, I be very happy if it was only that, but taking it to the Indi I got stuck in Morning traffic.....I do not think the cars behind appreciated it!
The point is, wether its a long time or not....you should be able to on any engine! So there is somthing wrong...

 

[Doug1234]

My Jeep (om642 ) did this after ticking over one morning when I left it idling for around 20 minutes while I read the days papers before work , drove off and smoke covered both lanes for hundreds of yards and eventually cleared after some hard throttle.
A new crankcase breather sorted it out, the old one would not close under suction /the diaphragm had split.

 

[R0SSY]

uncle benz,

Whats your honest thought on changing all 6 injectors for remanufactured.....i.e without coding via xentry/star?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-Piec...445115027-0445115064-A6420701387/223273988568

 

[R0SSY]

My Jeep (om642 ) did this after ticking over one morning when I left it idling for around 20 minutes while I read the days papers before work , drove off and smoke covered both lanes for hundreds of yards and eventually cleared after some hard throttle.
A new crankcase breather sorted it out, the old one would not close under suction /the diaphragm had split.

Mine is new, one of the 1st things I changed,,,but whats strange is, as you say, its open at idle so it only causes the issue if broken and it seals at idle and not just under load....
I asked this on another forum too, apparently there is a "modified" or "updated" PCV for this engine.....but the actual part number list the PCV and the pipe with heater and new orange seal. My thought is that the actual only differnace is the orange seal the rest is the same. But asked if anyone knows if the Valve itself is the same internaly as its that what fails....the seal does too but you can simply get that for a few quid with the new turbo one too. Again this is what I did....
Also still waiting for an oil flow diagram or somone who rebuilds these engine to explain...the oil pump is on the front left driven from cam? (Again I only think this) how is oil "pumped" to the turbo and what does the return look like to the sump?
I just want to understand it in my mind....help me figure this out...

 

[Uncle Benz]

uncle benz,

Whats your honest thought on changing all 6 injectors for remanufactured.....i.e without coding via xentry/star?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-Piec...445115027-0445115064-A6420701387/223273988568

Those look remarkably cheap. I think I’d be wary. Loads of places can code them, and I’d strongly advise it. Its just a hexidecimal string that needs inputting. My SnapOn tool does it perfectly and I tend to use that if I’m pushed for time. My Xentry takes ages to start. I can have six coded and the car out before the start screen comes up on the laptop.

 

[R0SSY]

Those look remarkably cheap. I think I’d be wary. Loads of places can code them, and I’d strongly advise it. Its just a hexidecimal string that needs inputting. My SnapOn tool does it perfectly and I tend to use that if I’m pushed for time. My Xentry takes ages to start. I can have six coded and the car out before the start screen comes up on the laptop.

Could also be the others are remarkably expensive! They are from Germany, which I thinks a good sign....
Out of interest....what you charge for changing them and coding then?

 

[Uncle Benz]

However long it takes We charge by the hour. Remove and replace six, tidying up the seats, it’s a good mornings work. If they come out easy...

OM642, most times they come out easy.

little tip, write the injector codes down before you fit them. They can be hard to read after you’ve installed them

 

[R0SSY]

See thats another thing about mine....its spotless on top of the injectors...no sign of black death at all....doin my head in...

 

[Uncle Benz]

See thats another thing about mine....its spotless on top of the injectors...no sign of black death at all....doin my head in...

Don’t mean a thing for this fault though

 

[R0SSY]

Don’t mean a thing for this fault though

Sorry I know, I ment from the point of they "should" come out easier. as not gunged up in black death ....and its also quite a common thing....point I'm making is engine is clean....even cleaner now after the cooler done as leak free LOL

 

[R0SSY]

Found what I read on another site.....Just wanna know if this would still apply to changing all 6 at once....and how the hell does it know each individual injectors trimmed right without knowing the imission on each cylinder anyway?
What I found and highlighted the relivant bit:-
The injectors probably need to be coded in order to immediately fall within emissions requirements, as every single injector will flow a tiny bit differently than another. The injectors get flow tested and the code gets printed to the injectors so they can be scanned in, and the engine immediately gets the correct trim for that injector. This poses a few problems however, rebuilt injectors will not flow the same amount as they did when new, so unless they are re-tested and a new code printed on them, the code on them is irrelevant. Also, if you need to fix your car, replacing an injector is quite easy and a miscoded injector is certainly better than a stuck injector washing down your cylinder. I can tell the rebuilt injector in my case eventually got trimmmed correctly as that cylinder is no longer louder than the others. The initial difference was audible, especially at idle, the rebuilt injector's cylinder was louder. The most affected part of the injection cycle is probably the pilot injection phase, where tiny differences in fuel flow will change how loud that cylinder will be. This has gone away with some driving though.

Its just at £412 for a set of 6 injectors is quite a good DIY option that for must would see the car still on the road....but at £235 each so £1410 for a new set plus fitting or even DIY would make most right it off...or just change the one/two when in reality if all the same age they are all being better off changed at once....which I want what I'd do!

 

[Doug1234]

It detects cylinder imbalance and then adjusts fuelling for that cylinder on the next firing... its very very clever.

My old school thinking is the pcv valve is open at idle so it is drawing oil fumes in but they just sit and accumulate until revs and airflow rises enough to drag them through to be burnt.
It may be the engine finds it easier to draw crankcase fumes than draw air through the air filters ?.
After about a week or so plodding around in my Jeep if I open it up and hold to near max revs for around 30 seconds it will throw smoke out and quite a trail of it but the smoke only starts to come out around the 20 second mark, once I have done this its impossible to repeat until it has done at least another 4-500 miles.

Mine is definitely burning off excess oil it has built up.
Even after I fitted the new pcv valve and pipe rubbers I did notice some oil in turbo inlet only about 2 thousand miles later when changing fuel filter so even with new pcv it still gets oil in.
That pcv has now done 20,000 miles and engines been running biodiesel nearly all that time.
So would it smoke if you disconnect pcv unit and vent it to atmosphere / block pcv pipe that goes to turbo inlet ??

 

[R0SSY]

It detects cylinder imbalance and then adjusts fuelling for that cylinder on the next firing... its very very clever.

My old school thinking is the pcv valve is open at idle so it is drawing oil fumes in but they just sit and accumulate until revs and airflow rises enough to drag them through to be burnt.
It may be the engine finds it easier to draw crankcase fumes than draw air through the air filters ?.
After about a week or so plodding around in my Jeep if I open it up and hold to near max revs for around 30 seconds it will throw smoke out and quite a trail of it but the smoke only starts to come out around the 20 second mark, once I have done this its impossible to repeat until it has done at least another 4-500 miles.

Mine is definitely burning off excess oil it has built up.
Even after I fitted the new pcv valve and pipe rubbers I did notice some oil in turbo inlet only about 2 thousand miles later when changing fuel filter so even with new pcv it still gets oil in.
That pcv has now done 20,000 miles and engines been running biodiesel nearly all that time.
So would it smoke if you disconnect pcv unit and vent it to atmosphere / block pcv pipe that goes to turbo inlet ??

I thought this...the only issue I see is the original PCV valve intself which would as descussed, close on boost....if vented direct to atmosphere it would be open ALL the time...and the worry would be oil being forced out.....empty sump and well, we know what that would lead too.
It why I'm think of the filter being added to my catch can....but putting a one way valve under it so under boot the vacume will close that to atmosphere and close the PCV as its spoosed too but allowing some to be drawn into turbo and some (most I hope) vent to atmosphere on IDLE.
Thats the plan anyhew...

 

[Doug1234]

Have a look on some Jeep forums , they mostly vent them to atmosphere in the USA without issue apart from stink of oil fumes.
Interestingly is Jeep USA recommend 5w40 oil to be used now,I will find and paste the article about it.

 

[R0SSY]

Also those injectors I listed earlier...if you read they even come with new CODES.....worth knowing me thinks!

 

[R0SSY]

OK can't believe I've only just noticed this.....but from what I have researched it seems wrong way round...
When I 1st start the engine from cold there is like NO blowby from the oil filler cap (Just splashes of oil as accepted) but when I have checked and seen the smoke/fumes etc and more "air flow" is when its at operating temp??

It does not use hardly any oil and the coolant is 100% so what could this be.....does the EGR open when the car is hot to reduce temp and could this some how increase blowby gasses?

I seen Videos on line with OM642s at operating temp and the amount of blowby looks the same as mine so its not excessive...but why does it increase with temp going up and not the other way around as seems to be expected????
Took it for a long run yesterday....inc a trip on the motorway......no signs of any smoke at all.....and no oil in the catch can!

Going to take for an emissions test only...then if it passes book for MOT early as not due for few months....

 

[Doug1234]

Have a read through all of this thread
https://www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/om642-oil-cooler-replacement-2012-ml350-bluetec.11186/

 

[oigle]

OK can't believe I've only just noticed this.....but from what I have researched it seems wrong way round...
When I 1st start the engine from cold there is like NO blowby from the oil filler cap (Just splashes of oil as accepted) but when I have checked and seen the smoke/fumes etc and more "air flow" is when its at operating temp??

It does not use hardly any oil and the coolant is 100% so what could this be.....does the EGR open when the car is hot to reduce temp and could this some how increase blowby gasses?

I seen Videos on line with OM642s at operating temp and the amount of blowby looks the same as mine so its not excessive...but why does it increase with temp going up and not the other way around as seems to be expected????
Took it for a long run yesterday....inc a trip on the motorway......no signs of any smoke at all.....and no oil in the catch can!

Going to take for an emissions test only...then if it passes book for MOT early as not due for few months....

Think you have the bull by the tits mate. When the motor heats up, the oil heats and thins. The oil has fuel dilution in it which normally evaporates somewhat when hot. There is also water condensation inside a cold motor. (mayonaisse inside oil filler cap) As the motor heats, the water evaporates as does the fuel dilution and creates blowby.
Secondly the oil is thicker when cold and provides better ring sealing against compression gases, thus reducing blowby. A heavier grade oil often would reduce the amount of blowby.
It is very common for hot engines to "blow". In the old days with venting to atmosphere, with older motors, the amount of blowby was quite obvious when the motor was hot - you could see it coming out.
PCV has hidden the effects from sight.
I'm not surprised that you have nothing in your catch tank. Most of the blowby is not oil - it is water and combustion residues. When you do eventually get some liquid in the tank (will take quite a while) it will be as described above - not oil.
EGR has absolutely nothing to do with more or less blowby. It just mixes its crud with the blowby to create our favourite inlet manifold gunk.

Ian.