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cl500:/

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Also worth checking the sensor links arm, they tend to seize up with rust. ( in the plastic cups) , and then the arm part of the sensor does not move and could snap off. Imrepalced all 4 but kept this as it cleaned up perfectly. What CL500 do you have? 216? 215?
View attachment 86302
Thanks for your reply,
W215, i have tested the wire connections on each sensor it seems to be a wiring problem I think not sure no power coming to the connector resistance at 100ohms either I have a break in the wire or there is a fuse for those wires which is blown and I can not locate the fuse if it has one I did see one video of a guy removing the carpet where your feet go and there is a bunch of wires with fuses on them I did remove the passenger side nothing there driver side same thing under rear driver side fuses good unless those wires are run by relays which I haven't checked

Any help thanks
 
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cl500:/

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A fuse would explain why all four are showing the same issue
That's what I was thinking so I tested all fuses from 50 amps to 5amps all are good under the rear driver seat 2 under the bonnet and the one on passenger side dashboard they are all not blown although I did not do a power test on them all which I need to to make sure power is going through them but they are not broken that's what I know for now the next test I will do is check if they're getting power

I appreciate everyone's help and information means alot to me thank you all
 
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cl500:/

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Hi all, I have spoken to a garage they told me to lift the rear from the diff and switch the car on they said the suspension is probably squashed and not able to push it self up and if nothing happens after 10 to 30 minutes then loosen the bleeder nipple if nothing is coming out then they said the pump/ rear valve block is not pumping to the rear struts might be pumping the fluids to the lines but not enough pressure going to the struts so I will be trying what they told me
 

LostKiwi

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'93 500SL-32, '01 W210 Estate E240 (RIP), 02 R230 SL500, 04 Smart Roadster Coupe, 11 R350CDi
If it's like my SL good luck getting a jack under it:
PXL_20230917_124338105.jpg
 
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cl500:/

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Hi all I took it to my workplace today and tested some wires the two on the rear valve block giving me completely different voltages 1 is at 9 to 8 v a bit low the other one is at 0v tested the connection on the level sensor no voltage will be sending it in to get looked at by a electrical car shop hopefully this week will keep you all updated
Thanks again all
 
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cl500:/

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Hi all so the update still not able to lift the car up nor down the front did go down after 3 weeks almost by it self, went to a Mercedes specialist last week and he told me that my pressure is too much and i must have used the wrong hydraulic fluid so of course he told me to buy the original oil although I did put chf11s before I read online its the same soi will be buying the Mercedes dealer oil 4l for £97 Inc vat I believe shambles I paid 53£ for 4 liters of chf11s. Anyway will be trying that this weekend hopefully I am 100% certain it's not going to work, I did ask him if it doesn't go up then what he literally did not even respond but if nothing happens I will be going back to him and telling him to repair it also I think the hydraulic line I got made might be a little to long it was a struggle to get it in place however it did go in and there was a little amount of fluid in the bleeder pipe so I think the high pressure might be from that but I'm not sure I can go get it re made its like 3cm longer. So I didn't see an issue when I got it but anyway I'm still stuck and looking for answers, oh yeah o asked the mechanic about the voltage and everything he said as long as I have resistance its fine but that's where he caught me off guard, doesn't high resistance mean there is a break in the wire/ bad ground or blown fuse so yeah I'm not sure anymore
If anything changes I will keep you all updated
Thank you all once again
 
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cl500:/

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Hi all I took it to my workplace today and tested some wires the two on the rear valve block giving me completely different voltages 1 is at 9 to 8 v a bit low the other one is at 0v tested the connection on the level sensor no voltage will be sending it in to get looked at by a electrical car shop hopefully this week will keep you all updated
Thanks again all
The electrics shop told me just go to a Mercedes specialist use the star tool and you should find your problem I guess Leicester is just full of rubbish
 

Richard Moakes

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Hi all so the update still not able to lift the car up nor down the front did go down after 3 weeks almost by it self, went to a Mercedes specialist last week and he told me that my pressure is too much and i must have used the wrong hydraulic fluid so of course he told me to buy the original oil although I did put chf11s before I read online its the same soi will be buying the Mercedes dealer oil 4l for £97 Inc vat I believe shambles I paid 53£ for 4 liters of chf11s. Anyway will be trying that this weekend hopefully I am 100% certain it's not going to work, I did ask him if it doesn't go up then what he literally did not even respond but if nothing happens I will be going back to him and telling him to repair it also I think the hydraulic line I got made might be a little to long it was a struggle to get it in place however it did go in and there was a little amount of fluid in the bleeder pipe so I think the high pressure might be from that but I'm not sure I can go get it re made its like 3cm longer. So I didn't see an issue when I got it but anyway I'm still stuck and looking for answers, oh yeah o asked the mechanic about the voltage and everything he said as long as I have resistance its fine but that's where he caught me off guard, doesn't high resistance mean there is a break in the wire/ bad ground or blown fuse so yeah I'm not sure anymore
If anything changes I will keep you all updated
Thank you all once again
Find a better specialist, he is guessing.

Pentosin CHF11S is the same fluid you will buy from Mercedes at twice the price.
Without diagnostics showing pump output pressure, there is no way to know the pressure is too high.
 
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cl500:/

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Find a better specialist, he is guessing.

Pentosin CHF11S is the same fluid you will buy from Mercedes at twice the price.
Without diagnostics showing pump output pressure, there is no way to know the pressure is too high.
I forgot to add that he did plug it in and the pressure was 255bar also he did say its meant to be at 198bar or 195bar so what do you reckon I should do? Shall I buy the original oil
 
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cl500:/

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Not MB approved, doubt it’s causing your issues, but I wouldn’t want it in my system and would change it
OK I will drain it and buy the mb oil thank you yeah I doubt it aswell this all happened after I replaced the rear hydraulic lines I got them re made they work some fluid does come out when I opened the bleeder nipple however its like there is no pressure going to the pipes and all the sensors (abc related )are flagged up on the scanner I did upload a picture on the previous page, I am getting not enough voltage to the wire and the rear valve block Is not making a sound, all the wires for the abc are not working however I was able to lift the front with the scanner
 

ajlsl600

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clk3202001,sl6002003 with everything regrettably sold ,A class 170cdi auto. NG/TF1800 ML250
I forgot to add that he did plug it in and the pressure was 255bar also he did say its meant to be at 198bar or 195bar so what do you reckon I should do? Shall I buy the original oil
The oil is filtered after its circulated any rubbish thru ur system!!! However excess press is inductive of a restriction. And or a bad relief valve. Or one that's been tampered with but at least for now Yr pump is providing pressure.
 
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cl500:/

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The oil is filtered after its circulated any rubbish thru ur system!!! However excess press is inductive of a restriction. And or a bad relief valve. Or one that's been tampered with but at least for now Yr pump is providing pressure.
I got my hydraulic lines repaired basically and they made the rear left side about 3 cm longer and it did take me time to get it into angle to screw it into the valve block do you reckon that might be the issue I was thinking of disconnecting it and try and see what the pressure would be id assume there wouldn't be any but would it be worth the try? Or getting the pipe shorter by 3cm
 


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