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Garage Rebuild

Discussion in 'Motoring Related Discussion' started by 00slk, Sep 16, 2020.

  1. Kev555

    Kev555 Senior Member

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    Good job if they give it a good wackering as seems to be in photos 00slk. Thats crusher run reclaimed hardcore by the looks of it with fair amount of soil or sand substrate in it. Should be ok if its wackered plenty or best thing for tightening it plenty of rain between now and plastic going down. With 6" of concrete and prob reinforcing, I dont think cracks will appear even if I am a bit concerned about the quality of the hardcore. Laser gets it accurate for ordering concrete amount and even Depth:D
     
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  2. davidsl500

    davidsl500 Senior Member

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    I presume you will be blinding the hard core layer with sand before putting the dpm down.....
     
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  3. Kev555

    Kev555 Senior Member

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    Dont think membrane is critical here (although good practice) if ground is fairly dry which looks the case unless a radon barrier is required. Mostly I find membrane is used more to stop concrete drying out too quick and cracking in warmer weather. 6" of power floated concrete wont show water topside unless theres a high water table at property location. Open the garage door in damp weather and a concrete floor will be soaking on topside more likely from moisture in the air like my own.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2020 at 1:39 AM
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  4. OP
    00slk

    00slk Senior Member

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    Lol........Never occurred to me that there was two ways of spelling, comes from watching too many videos :oops:
     
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  5. OP
    00slk

    00slk Senior Member

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    They ran the digger over it a good few times and then used that thacker thing, very noisey to compact it all further down.
    The plastic sheet was put down last night ready for Monday, it has been rained on over night so missed the extra pack down, hopefully the sheet cover in rain water will help? I am going to have a smooth floor in the garage, makes it a lot easier to manoeuvre cars on trolley jacks and wheel dollies to move about by oneself :D

    20201122_091851.jpg


    There was a bit of sand mixed in with the hard core (got it right now with a gap between d and c) :D so guessing that will be okay?
    I don't know too much about building so leaving it all up too everyone else. Mind you, you would have thought that I should have learned something by now after having and been around while there have been building projects going on all through my life. Even my Dad who was a Fitter and Turner could build houses, I was led down the wrong garden path at a very early stage by my uncle who was part of the mechanical draftsman team who designed the Auckland harbour bridge in New Zealand. (My Mum still has the original plans) He got me into cars, albeit American cars of the early '50's and '60's :cool: And look where I ended up........MB :shock:
     
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  6. WDB124066

    WDB124066 Senior Member

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    I'd love a copy of those.....They had to replace a strut the other day cause a truck got tipped by the wind and hit one!
     
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  7. Blobcat

    Blobcat Moderator

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    If you’re getting re-bar you could always go non-metallic...

    BE009532-04E5-463D-8E62-42D7BBE35639.jpeg

    It’s not exactly the cheap option...:rolleyes: and you definitely need gloves when handling it as the fibreglass fibres get straight into your hands.
    Non magnetic though and can take some very serious weight loading :cool:
     
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  8. EmilysDad

    EmilysDad Senior Member

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    they're both the same spelling .... ;)
     
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  9. Frontstep

    Frontstep Senior Member

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    It's not too late and very cheap to insulate the slab at this stage a simple layer of polystyrene will suffice and you will appreciate it.
    If it was mine I would do it.
    It not only keeps it warmer but drier.
    Cold lumps of concrete attract condensate.
     
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  10. Jim2

    Jim2 Senior Member

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    All in the mind EmilysDad....:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
     
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  11. Frontstep

    Frontstep Senior Member

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    I quite like this remote working, especially on a nice simple build :)

    In my head there is a pit with pump and power.
    The slab is reinforced where the ramp goes and in the floor is another drain for the inevitable clean-ups already installed.
     
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  12. Frontstep

    Frontstep Senior Member

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    Is there not a church to the mighty Benz we can all build somewhere?
     
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  13. OP
    00slk

    00slk Senior Member

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    I am so sure I have seen lumps of polystyrene used before on floor before the concrete has been poured?? Or am I dreaming it. I will talk with the builder on Monday and see what he says about this, it won't take much to drop some polystyrene in before the cement :)
     
  14. OP
    00slk

    00slk Senior Member

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    :oops::oops: just realised what I said there :rolleyes: spelling, meant two words not one, sometimes I do wonder about myself :confused:
     
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  15. EmilysDad

    EmilysDad Senior Member

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    they built a few sub-stations at the back of work last year. They appeared to fill the footing with a lot of large polystyrene blocks before the concrete floor was poured ..... only viewed from our brew area :D
     
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  16. davidsl500

    davidsl500 Senior Member

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    Normally, you design for the insulation so you can set your levels correctly. 50mm Polystyrene sheet was the norm but this means your finished slab level will be 2" higher.
    You either lay it on the sand blinded hardcore and then pour the slab or when building houses you can lay the polystyrene sheets on the slab and cover with V313 chipboard, not forgetting the DPM...
     
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  17. OP
    00slk

    00slk Senior Member

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    And in turn I'd have to have the roof higher too as I can't loose any height inside as the roof top at the centre can not be the same height as the top point of our Bungalow which is 2 storey. Plus the height is needed for the 2 poster and lorry.
    But I'll still mention the polystyrene to my builder.
     
  18. Frontstep

    Frontstep Senior Member

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    You just need to lose a bit of your crush and run hardcore to get some 50mm 2400mm x 1200mm sheets in.

    More would be better but 50mm is reasonable.
     
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  19. Kev555

    Kev555 Senior Member

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    Or as another cheaper option is to go with fibre in the concrete, really good job at combating cracks and adds floor strength. Ask your builder 00slk it only costs a few quid more a metre from memory and shouldn't really affect a polished finish on the floor
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2020 at 9:54 PM
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  20. Kev555

    Kev555 Senior Member

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    Afraid its too late now as levels have been set for concrete. To add insulation now would require two inches less of concrete on the floor at minimum. Builders will add to price re-adjusting floor height for insulation.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2020 at 9:55 PM
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