Sounds good to me too.
What's your plan for removing the engine?
This could turn into a very interesting thread when the rebuild starts. Count on costs escalating +20% they always do when you are dealing with the unknown
Yes, I knew about mid & rear engined cars --e.g. Porsche 911, etc.On his it will come out the top.
Some cars have to go out the bottom with the subframe. Typically rear engined and mid engined cars will go out the bottom .
Original minis will go either way though in my opinion out the top is quicker.
My local engineer skims heads for £40 each. £2k is therefore a lot of work done!
Yea it's pretty decent here alright. They actually have a lift that they will be finishing the install of soon so if I want to drop it out the bottom with subframe, I should have that option too.Very good.
That sounds like a great setup you have.
I presume that the engine comes out the top?
I saw a video recently where the mechanic removed the engine by leaving it attached to the front subframe and disconnecting the subframe including all the suspension, brake pipes, etc. from the body and lifting the body up on the car hoist.
Thanks Malcom. I would say 90% of his work is agri/diesel cars so he is probably keen to get into this.Good luck with it Conor should be a very interesting build from the rebuilders point of view as well, quite a lump and 4 valves per cylinder. Don’t be tempted to tune the old girl though
Thanks Dave.The powered lift you have available (forklift) is a great advantage and a super confidence builder. So long as you can secure the engine okay/safely when removing/re-installing that's a heck of a lot of weight off your shoulders (sorry... pun intended just for fun)!
Just keep at it in good temper Conor and you'll come out a real winner! The really great thing is that if problems arise there's a terrific resource for advice and guidance if you need anything - right here!
Very different engine but I had exactly the same on my w124 (huge cloud of smoke after booting it after idling a long time and general misfire. Also on over 200k at the time.
Diagnosed as head gasket and stem seals. So new seals, skim and head gasket was done in local garage all in in the UK for 900 pounds. And I didn't do anything. I know you've got two heads and a more complex engine but if it's most likely stem seals could you not do that yourself or pay a garage a few hundred to do it and then run it to the ground? It's a huge leap from that to a 5k engine rebuild!
A2720161520 | Head gasket left | 1 |
A2720161620 | Head gasket right | 1 |
A2760160069 | Head bolt left | 8 |
A2760160069 | Head bolt right | 8 |
A2722001001 | Water pump | 1 |
A2721800701 | Oil pump | 0 |
Coolant | ||
Valves | ||
A2720500226 | Intake valve left | 0 |
A2720500226 | Intake valve right | 0 |
A2720501527 | Exhaust valve left | 0 |
A2720501527 | Exhaust valve right | 0 |
A0000535158 | TS Sealing left - set | 3 |
A0000535158 | TS Sealing right - set | 3 |
A2720530025 | Spring retainer exhaust | 12 |
A2720530125 | Spring retainer intake | 12 |
A2760530025 | Valve spring retainer left | 12 |
A2760530025 | Valve spring retainer right | 12 |
A2720530620 | Valve spring exhaust left | 6 |
A2720530620 | Valve spring exhaust right | 6 |
A2720530720 | Valve spring inlet left | 6 |
A2720530720 | Valve spring inlet right | 6 |
A0000531126 | Conical valve keeper left | 24 |
A0000531126 | Conical valve keeper right | 24 |
A2720500133 | Rocker arm left | 12 |
A2720500133 | Rocker arm right | 12 |
A6420500080 | Compensating element left | 12 |
A6420500080 | Compensating element right | 12 |
Chain Drive | ||
A0009930676 | Roller chain | 1 |
A2720521316 | Slide rail (Clamping rail) | 1 |
A2720520016 | Slide rail bottom left | 1 |
A2720521216 | Slide rail top left | 1 |
A2720520216 | Slide rail top right | 1 |
A2720500811 | TS Chain tensioner | 1 |
A1660520074 | Pin Sliding rail to cylinder head | 1 |
Timing chain kit (Includes all above ex. Pin sliding rail) | 1 |
To be fair I had the same dilemma and had no diagnosis or estimate until it was taken apart. No idea of exact cost breakdown but after a few hours labour once the head was removed the rings/pistons were declared "as new" and the work defined and priced up immediately. I can't see how it's all failed at the same time or all worn... there will more likely be one (or two) failure points and the rest as new or 95 percent of life left. My w124 did 110k miles after the seals/gasket/skim (to 310k miles) and is now sorn with engine still working perfectly and not a single other engine problem or excessive oil loss in that period.
That's exactly what I did with my Dad's MKII Granada V6 a few years back. He'd had the heads off, rebuilt the heads, put them back on the car but was left with a bag a seals left over ..... Doh! I made a tool to push the valve spring down .... a bit Heath Robinson, but it worked.I'd do similar Conor. The only difference is I'd do all the seals on that bank (why not when you're that far down the disassembly?).
To do the seal in situ use cord fed into the sparkplug hole (make sure you keep an end out!)
Wind the engine by hand so the cord is compressed into the combustion chamber. This will prevent the valve moving into the cylinder. Compress the valve spring retainer, remove the collets and remove the valve spring and cap. Swap the seal over and repeat for the next valve. Remove the cord and repeat for the next cylinder(s).
Will you have time with all the forums you’re on…Hello everybody.
Quick update on this.
I still wouldn't have gotten around to this as my Clio track car is still not ready... but getting there
Anyway. I have decided that (despite the advice of everybody who knows what they are talking about) I am going to go about getting just the valve stem seals done on two cylinders.
My logic is as follows:
* Any time I explain the symptoms the explain - it's the valve stem seals.
* But, when I announce that I am going to do the seals, those same people tell me i'm wasting my time if I am not doing piston rings of valve guides too.
* Funny that, when I asked fist time around there was no mention of these other items..
* Now here is where most of my decision has come from. As far as I understand it, rubber wears out quicker than metal. I find it hard to believe that all of a sudden, the metal components have ended up worn at the same time as the rubber.
* I have seen a guy do seals with engine in site (rocker cover off) M112, mind, on YouTube. I feel I can do this job myself, given enough time and it will be fun. A head rebuild or bottom end rebuild is an outsourced job and a lot more money.
It also just going to be cylinders 2 & 3 - Because any time I sit in traffic or idle the engine, it's always these ones that trigger misfire codes afterwards, as a result of too much oil in the cylinder.
I'd do similar Conor. The only difference is I'd do all the seals on that bank (why not when you're that far down the disassembly?).
To do the seal in situ use cord fed into the sparkplug hole (make sure you keep an end out!)
Wind the engine by hand so the cord is compressed into the combustion chamber. This will prevent the valve moving into the cylinder. Compress the valve spring retainer, remove the collets and remove the valve spring and cap. Swap the seal over and repeat for the next valve. Remove the cord and repeat for the next cylinder(s).
Good to hear the plan is still in place, Connor and good to see supportive comment from LK. Not too much additional effort to do all the seals - versus stripping it all again if they have to be re-done a short while later.
Good luck etc...
That's cool. Have you any pics of the tool by chance? I will need all the inspiration I can getThat's exactly what I did with my Dad's MKII Granada V6 a few years back. He'd had the heads off, rebuilt the heads, put them back on the car but was left with a bag a seals left over ..... Doh! I made a tool to push the valve spring down .... a bit Heath Robinson, but it worked.
Will you have time with all the forums you’re on…