W164 Audio 20 -> Comand Upgrade

M

MB_Owner

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SO, I just purchased a Comand APS NTG2.5 unit from eBay (yes, I know :neutral:) - and am a bit worried that I'll run into difficulty installing it.

I have a 2009 ML 320CDI with an Audio 20 + Bluetooth phone (no CD changer or Amp or anything)

Does anyone have any tips for installing? Things to look out for, gochas etc??


Thanks!
 
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npuk

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Pretty simple as you have a 2009 car and audio 20 with bluetooth already. Just install the unit and gps antenna. You may need an aerial splitter. Comand Online sell it. STAR coding will be needed to activate navigation on the cluster.

Headunit removal guides on www.mercupgrades.com
 
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Thanks npuk! I'll go order a splitter...
 
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...Waiting for reply from Comand online....

I had a look at the removal guide and had a go at trying to remove the heater controls below the unit. It is NOT for budging!! (And I now have skinned fingers) :(

The guide makes it look easy - does anyone have any idea how to get this panel to budge?
http://www.mercupgrades.com/COMAND+APS+Retrofit+++ML++GL+and+R+Class-article-33.html

I am pressing and pulling HARD and it wont move - Im probably going to crack the plastic if I try any harder! arrg.
 
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npuk

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The panels are very tight. You will need to give it a good old tug.
 
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Command Online came back to me and said that they couldn't tell and to pull the radio out and look...

..... I *Finally* managed to get the panel off! :)

It's actually not that difficult once you know where to push etc... anyway, back to the antenna splitter question; there are 3 connectors in total at the back of the radio: the main wiring loom, a white double round connector and a single yellow/mustard one.

Am I to assume that I do not require a splitter as the this white one is already a dual one, and the yellow one is the mic connector?

Many Thanks!
 
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npuk

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You dont need it. Yellow isnt the mic.

For A/B/W203-C&CLC/ML/GL/R class and W211-E/W219-CLS/R171-SLK MY2009 onward (i.e) NTG2.5
Double White = FM/AM antennas
Mustard = Bluetooth antenna
Blue = GPS
Green = Reversing camera
The video AUX or TV input is on the 18 pin connector
 
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Cool. Thanks. Well that's 40 bucks saved!
 

gizze

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Does it work without coding on the w164?
Not for cluster, but to pair it to the car?
 

glassdome

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Hi there. Great post. I am thinking of buying a 2008 Mercedes-Benz M Class ML280 CDI Sport 5dr Tip Auto 3.0. It only has an audio 20 HU and I want to have sat nav.

I have been looking at upgrade options and would like to know if the same process applies to this model to upgrade to the comand system?

Also, there seem to be a few aftermarket head units with more functionality coming to the market such as:

http://www.autocarplaza.com/car-dvd...ash-player-fm-ipod-rds-bluetooth-can-bus.html

Has anyone got any experience with these? Are he they any good and easy sy to install (are they just plug n play or need wiring loom changes to pins, etc)?

Thanks in advance
 

zenman63

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ML63 AMG slk 350 slk 55 AMG
No go with the NTG2.5.

As for the antenna splitter, in the vito they now fit an antenna amp self powered with two inputs that come from the ntg2.5 so it now works as it should with diversity tuner.
The splitter into two is not good, it works but not how it was designed to.
 

Comand

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No go with the NTG2.5.

As for the antenna splitter, in the vito they now fit an antenna amp self powered with two inputs that come from the ntg2.5 so it now works as it should with diversity tuner.
The splitter into two is not good, it works but not how it was designed to.

I disagree. The splitter does work and works well. Ive installed literally dozens of NTG 2.5's.
 

Comand

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...Waiting for reply from Comand online....

I had a look at the removal guide and had a go at trying to remove the heater controls below the unit. It is NOT for budging!! (And I now have skinned fingers) :(

The guide makes it look easy - does anyone have any idea how to get this panel to budge?
http://www.mercupgrades.com/COMAND+APS+Retrofit+++ML++GL+and+R+Class-article-33.html

I am pressing and pulling HARD and it wont move - Im probably going to crack the plastic if I try any harder! arrg.

Open the tray below the panel. On each side tucked up under neath the panel are two clips. Push them up and pull the bottom of the panel towards you.
 

JW72

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W164 ML320 Cdi
A slightly different issue. I had a command 2 in my 2006 ML when I bought it and upgraded it to a version 2.5 as the old unit kept on freezing. I now have 2 spare wires (see photos), no radio signal and no microphone. I am guessing one spare relates to the old iPod line in and the other is the aerial? But where does if go? Do I need an adapter? That leaves me with a green, blue and double white empty...? Any help appreciated!
20181103_161540.jpg 20181103_161928.jpg 20181103_161650.jpg
 

Alfie

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A150 manual, smart forTwo, W205 AMG line premium plus.
You need a fitting kit which converts the wiring for you.
email me your VIN number to sales@comand.co.uk and I will advise accordingly.
 

Ardveen1

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Ml270 CDI 2006,. SL320 1996,
Hi, Fitted Comand NTG2.5 to 2008 ML320 (W164) originally factory fitted with Audio20. I used Star / DAS to code the unit to get past the anti theft warning. This coding worked offline and did not require a SCN code. The issue was radio reception being nil. The Comand set up does not power the antenna amplifier located inside the rear tailgate and thus no radio reception at all. I removed the tailgate to locate the antenna amplifier, mounted above the glass at the top. Single red wire (power) going in one side with red and black on the other side connected to glass implanted antenna. power from the rear cigarette lighter on right hand side and placed an inline 5amp fuse on the line. I cut back a bit of the red insulation on the single wire going into the antenna amplifier and wrapped the power line ( from cigarette lighter ) around it to power up the antenna. The comand radio now works perfectly with reception for all stations on FM. Problem is the rear cigarette lighter only powers up on full ignition so the radio looses reception when in key position 1 or 0. I could not find suitable power in the rear tail gate as they are switched with lights etc. This powerline has to be fed through the rubber wiring sheath on the top of the tailgate. Got a reverse camera fitted and working also with the rear tail gate lining removed, again DAS activated it without SCN coding. I believe the later, facelift models, 2009 onwards need SCN coding to activate comand / camera retrofit. My comand unit fitted was from a 2009 model ( with SD card )
 

Blobcat

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Hi, Fitted Comand NTG2.5 to 2008 ML320 (W164) originally factory fitted with Audio20. I used Star / DAS to code the unit to get past the anti theft warning. This coding worked offline and did not require a SCN code. The issue was radio reception being nil. The Comand set up does not power the antenna amplifier located inside the rear tailgate and thus no radio reception at all. I removed the tailgate to locate the antenna amplifier, mounted above the glass at the top. Single red wire (power) going in one side with red and black on the other side connected to glass implanted antenna. power from the rear cigarette lighter on right hand side and placed an inline 5amp fuse on the line. I cut back a bit of the red insulation on the single wire going into the antenna amplifier and wrapped the power line ( from cigarette lighter ) around it to power up the antenna. The comand radio now works perfectly with reception for all stations on FM. Problem is the rear cigarette lighter only powers up on full ignition so the radio looses reception when in key position 1 or 0. I could not find suitable power in the rear tail gate as they are switched with lights etc. This powerline has to be fed through the rubber wiring sheath on the top of the tailgate. Got a reverse camera fitted and working also with the rear tail gate lining removed, again DAS activated it without SCN coding. I believe the later, facelift models, 2009 onwards need SCN coding to activate comand / camera retrofit. My comand unit fitted was from a 2009 model ( with SD card )
You can get an antenna adapter that gets 12v from the ISO connectors and feeds it into the antenna wiring. Did that in my VeeDub when I fired a Kenwood head unit.
 

Ardveen1

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I looked again and the centre red wire to the rear wiper motor had switched power so that is an easier way to power the antenna. Anyway, got the whole thing set up only to discover that phone mic does not work. My car was prewired for phone with audio 20, bluetooth module device in center glovebox. Phone works and audio etc except with no mic i can only listen, not talk. Anyway more wiring issues so i parked the comand until i can get whatever is required to activate the mics
 

Ardveen1

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Hi, A bit of progress on this. The radio amplifier needs power ( +12v) to allow radio reception. Problem is that on Audio 20 is powered by Pin 13 on Block A ( grey black wire ) and this Pin 13 on Comand NTG 2.5 is blank so power not getting through and hence the amplifier remains dead.. On Comand power for the amp comes out of Pin 7 on Block B. Thus Pin 7 on Block B has to be connected to Pin 13 on Block A. Your car may / mayt not have a connector Block B in the quadlock harness. Mine did not. So get a plug that slots into Block B ( i had one from on older Merc quadlock ) and splice a wire between Pin 13 on Block A and Pin 7 on Block B. this block is also required for the phone Mic set up.
Assuming you have phone pre-wire with mics in mirror ( as I did) then remove the centre light, pull down from front end ( opposite side to windscreen ) and it will snap out. The connector block for mic is located behind the head lining on the right side, disconnect and you will have female end of mic to wire into. I did not figure out where the other end the male side of this cable ends up, but had I known I suspect the job would be easier. You need to wire a cable from Block B, pins 1, 2, 3 & 9 and connect to the 4 wires in this block at the centre mirror. That will get the mic working. The wires change colour but from memory in this connector there is a space between 2 of them which I took to be mic 1+ and 2 + and the other 2 have no gap in the loom so i took them as mic ground and mic shield, it worked in my case. For ease of wiring across from mic across and above headliner remove handle above door, loosen off bolts to sun visor to make a bit of room and you can feed a coat hanger wire across to pull the cable, pull back door seal, feed cable behind A pillar, remove plastic side panel on dash and feed the wire down and into void below steering wheel area and cable across to comand, i did mine on drivers side. All very tidy and easily routed. Leave A pillar in place as plenty of room to tread cable down ( I did not have the correct cable so used CAT4 and modified an old terminal to link into mic loom in head lining
If you want AUX then you need the other slide-in terminal to Block C in the quadlock, which I did not bother about, but you can fit an ipod kit or 3.5mm jack here if required.
I did ( by the way ) buy the adapter cable from a german website but it was absolutely not suitable for my conversion, pity as it would have saved a bit of grief trying to work out and adapt things.
The main point is to get a Block B terminal and wire up as per attached pinouts and cross over Audio 20 pin 13 ( grey/black) to Pin 7 on block B. All fairly straightforward once you understand the pinouts
 

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