W204 C220 Sound of blowing air and lose of power

[Vympel]

Hello everyone,

I'm running into an issue with my W204 C220 from 2011 and unfortunately for me even mechanics seems to struggle to find the real
culprit.

The issue is characterized by a lack of power, when I press the pedal it's soft and there is basically no power under. When it reaches around 1.8-2000 RPM and upper
you can hear(driver side) its blowing air from somewhere in the engine bay I guess. If I drive with the window down you can clearly hear air leaking from somewhere but I have no idea from where or what to check.

If I drive the car long enough on the highway the engine light pop out as well.

I bought an icarsoft to try and investigate it by myself and I had various faulty codes but what is even more curious is that when I clean them there may be new codes appearing.

For example at first I had P200A75 - P227962 when cleared I got P024872 and even some DPF ones seeing that the ashes are full or something.

Been to a few mechanics everyone told me if there is blowing air sound its most likely linked with the intercooler or the turbo intake duct.

The red turbo duct from the passenger side was indeed in bad shape I don't know if it was punctured somewhere, but I changed it.

The black one on the driver side after inspection seemed to be in relative good shape, no sign of any apparent puncturing.

Nothing really changed after I changed the turbo duct. We then investigated the intercooler, but again it was good, no sign of cracking.

Does anyone ran into something similar and can maybe share some thought about this issue ?

Thanks !

 

[LostKiwi]

Leaking intercooler hoses. They tend to split and will appear ok until under load.
They can also leak at the joints to turbo/intercooler/inlet manifold at the O ring seals.
Failing that holed intercooler.

You can try running a pressure test (smoke test) on the inlet tract.

 

[star]

Inlet manifolds leak too.

 

[Vympel]

I will try to replace the black one then and hopefully it will finally fix this because honestly I am fed up with that issue
Thanks guys !

I keep you updated

 

[Vympel]

Inlet manifolds leak too.

Any tips on "how to be sure" or investigate it's the inlet manifold, or the only way is to take it out ?

 

[Vympel]

So little update regarding my issue.
Both intercooler hoes are changed and the blowing air sound is still here.

I'll bring it to a new mechanic and investigate more thoroughly.

I hope it's just another hoes somewhere and not the inlet manifold itself.

 

[tpn]

The inlet manifold leak is very subtle at first. Will bring up the code when you accelerate. It is usually the second bolt from the front, on the bottom that shears, though some have developed cracks and holes elsewhere.
If you can get a scope put it down in the area of the cooler. You will usually see black gunk on top of it.

I changed one not so long ago, but I did not have any signs of blowing air etc. Just the code, limp mode and mil when I ask for boost. When I put out the light it did not return again until I asked for a bit of performance.

If you are sure it is on the drivers side-..and you do not have a LHD-it is not the inlet manifold.

One thing to be careful about is that the DPF will not regen while you have a code and you will finish up with DPF problems also,...if you do not already have them.

 

[Vympel]

I made a highway trip after changing the other turbo hose and I felt that the car was responding pretty well despite the "air noise"
Prior to this, my icarsoft wasn't detecting any default and I checked the DPF status.

It was filled at 163% (I do know Mercedes software state a theoric value between 1-300%). After that I had a small highway trip and when I checked once again the level was 50%.

I made another trip and my car went into limp mode, no power again and the usual issues that goes with this mode. After checking the DPF level, it was at 197% with 8g of soot.

So currently I have 2 default (no engine light so far maybe tomorrow at ignition? )

1. P024872 - Output 2 for low pressure turbocharger is faulty, actuator does not close.
2. P246309 - The soot content of the diesel particulate filter is not OK. There is a component fault.

@tpn so it seems I'm starting to get those DPF problems as you mentioned ...

 

[tpn]

I made a highway trip after changing the other turbo hose and I felt that the car was responding pretty well despite the "air noise"
Prior to this, my icarsoft wasn't detecting any default and I checked the DPF status.

It was filled at 163% (I do know Mercedes software state a theoric value between 1-300%). After that I had a small highway trip and when I checked once again the level was 50%.

I made another trip and my car went into limp mode, no power again and the usual issues that goes with this mode. After checking the DPF level, it was at 197% with 8g of soot.

So currently I have 2 default (no engine light so far maybe tomorrow at ignition? )

1. P024872 - Output 2 for low pressure turbocharger is faulty, actuator does not close.
2. P246309 - The soot content of the diesel particulate filter is not OK. There is a component fault.

@tpn so it seems I'm starting to get those DPF problems as you mentioned ...

Don't tempt fate with the DPF, I think it is at a 251% fill level that the car will refuse to regen-just have a mental block on it at the moment- even if every thing else is ok. The car will normally regen at 100% without any need to increase the revs etc. After 251% fill you will have to do a forced regen.

If your fill level was at 400% with the P246309 it would be a false flag and indicate a defective DPF differential sensor; but that is not so in your case.

Looking at the sequence of your faults, has anybody looked at your pressure transducer Solenoid valve? or indeed the vacuum tubes.
Well worth a check

 

[Vympel]

Don't tempt fate with the DPF, I think it is at a 251% fill level that the car will refuse to regen-just have a mental block on it at the moment- even if every thing else is ok. The car will normally regen at 100% without any need to increase the revs etc. After 251% fill you will have to do a forced regen.

If your fill level was at 400% with the P246309 it would be a false flag and indicate a defective DPF differential sensor; but that is not so in your case.

Looking at the sequence of your faults, has anybody looked at your pressure transducer Solenoid valve? or indeed the vacuum tubes.
Well worth a check

No all the mechanics and even the Mercedes center where I managed to have a person coming to inspect my car said that the typical blowing air is usually either turbo hose or even intercooler (now we definitely can exclude all three). Only one independent mercedes specialist and the mechanic I went today told me it may be the inlet manifold (but they have to investigate and with everybody rushing into vacation they have no availabilities at all in the short term so)

Regarding your question no nobody checked the pressure transducer Solenoid valve nor the vacuum tubes.

Where is the pressure solenoid located on an OM 651 engine if I may ask ?

 

[tpn]

Well I think you said the air noise is on the right hand side, whereas the inlet manifold is on the left hand side ( sitting in driving position as regards left and right)
The transducer is in a very stupid place, as all most of the Mercedes sensors,.
It is down below the mixer chamber which is underneath the inlet manifold.
Rough guide, if you look down at the back of the EGR adjacent to the battery housing it is down there where the two almost inaccessible egr retaining bolt are.
You will not see it from the top, but if you shine a torch up from underneath you can just about see it.
Have a look at this, it will give you an idea of where things are.

https://tikobv.nl/m/CDI.pdf

 

[Vympel]

Air noise is on the left side which is the driver side (EU car steer wheel on left should have precised this !)
I hear it coming from the air vents.

I was hoping the valve is more accessible like the pressure boost sensor or the MAF .
@tpn Thanks for your help I'll see with the mechanic next week, hopefully we can sort this of.

In the meantime, I may try with a camera to see if I see any cracks or oil on the inlet manifold.
Will update the thread if anything new !

 

[tpn]

You are on a .org.uk site.
The steering wheel in UK and in Ireland is on the Right Hand side.
Was wondering why things were not adding up, thus the suggestion about where the steering wheel was.
I would also check all the vacuum pipes and the vacuum storage/ distribution box sitting on top of the egr cooler.
Again continuing to drive it will lead to DPF problems.
Keep us posted of developments

 

[Vympel]

It's very hard to find actual forums with good quality threads and info, and when you do find them they are always English based one

I drove in 2nd gear for a few miles with my carsoft on and I was checking if the DPF started cleaning itself, and it did.

After parking the car I could hear the "usual" noise it make after being into regeneration (it's very typical) so I assume it worked as intended.
Current values are DPF filled at 12% and 1g of soot.

I was also looking at the B28/8 differential pressure sensor for the DPF standing at 0 bar when I was idle after I drove in 2nd gear for so long.
Looks pretty odd to me, it is at 0 bar.

 

[tpn]

It's very hard to find actual forums with good quality threads and info, and when you do find them they are always English based one

I drove in 2nd gear for a few miles with my carsoft on and I was checking if the DPF started cleaning itself, and it did.

After parking the car I could hear the "usual" noise it make after being into regeneration (it's very typical) so I assume it worked as intended.
Current values are DPF filled at 12% and 1g of soot.

I was also looking at the B28/8 differential pressure sensor for the DPF standing at 0 bar when I was idle after I drove in 2nd gear for so long.
Looks pretty odd to me, it is at 0 bar.

I have a 2012 Blue efficiency, so similar. You do not need to drive in 2nd gear etc to trigger a regen. It will do it automatically at normal driving, even at 1000rpm.
Once the codes are not there/deleted it will do a regen at 100% fill and up to 250% fill.
Reach 251% fill and it will no longer do it without a forced regen.

0.00 at idle is not correct for the Dif Pres Sen. when my sensor was failing it was doing this from time to time.
I would not even bother testing it at 1500rpm and 3000rpm if it is 0.00 at tick over.(it is basically a diaphragm, so prone to leaking)

You should check your back pressure also as they are inextricably linked with the Dif sensor when analysing a problem.

I would rarely know when my car is doing a regen, or indeed afterwards, if I did not have the diagnostics on; but I guess if you are thrashing it in 2nd gear the exhaust will be creaking for a while afterwards.

 

[Vympel]

I have a 2012 Blue efficiency, so similar. You do not need to drive in 2nd gear etc to trigger a regen. It will do it automatically at normal driving, even at 1000rpm.
Once the codes are not there/deleted it will do a regen at 100% fill and up to 250% fill.
Reach 251% fill and it will no longer do it without a forced regen.

0.00 at idle is not correct for the Dif Pres Sen. when my sensor was failing it was doing this from time to time.
I would not even bother testing it at 1500rpm and 3000rpm if it is 0.00 at tick over.(it is basically a diaphragm, so prone to leaking)

You should check your back pressure also as they are inextricably linked with the Dif sensor when analysing a problem.

I would rarely know when my car is doing a regen, or indeed afterwards, if I did not have the diagnostics on; but I guess if you are thrashing it in 2nd gear the exhaust will be creaking for a while afterwards.

In the case I try to replace the dif. pres sensor should I do anything with the carsoft or it will detect the new sensor and calibrate by itself ?

 

[tpn]

In the case I try to replace the dif. pres sensor should I do anything with the carsoft or it will detect the new sensor and calibrate by itself ?

That is a little bit of a grey area. It is suggested that holding the engine at 2000rpm for 15 min will suffice.

After fitting mine I had a regen loop- regenerating too often and not completing. Down to 12% restarting at 75% etc, etc.

But I was after replacing the inlet manifold complete with flaps, the fuel filter housing and the thermostat; plus a forced regen.

I would have thought that the regen trip at the higher revs should have been enough, but no.

I got a snap on to tell the ECU that a new DPF was fitted and that sorted it out

 

[Vympel]

Hey everyone!

Small update on my issue.

I got the differential pressure sensor replaced and it's still showing almost no pressure (it's never reaching a bar). The absolut best It reached was 0.09 bar or so.

Didn't manage with the icarsoft to reset and make it believe I changed the dpf it finish the operation with a failure.

Got a new fault code (That I already got in the past few weeks)

Also worth noting today at a red light my engine started chattering and the same happend a bit later after parking the car.

Other question can the fuel filter be responsible for such issues?

I got it replaced last year but maybe it's already really dirty due to bad fuel?

 

[M80]

Is there a reason you haven't had a smoke test?

 

[Vympel]

Is there a reason you haven't had a smoke test?

Mainly because I can't find a trustworthy mechanic to do it due to annual vacation leave.
Mercedes have availability around August and same for my independent garage.

So I am stuck.