W204 C220 Sound of blowing air and lose of power

[M80]

Mainly because I can't find a trustworthy mechanic to do it due to annual vacation leave.
Mercedes have availability around August and same for my independent garage.

So I am stuck.

Don't treat iCarsoft as gospel. It can be confused with its readings, sometimes the information needs clarifying to be sure it's reading the sensor you think it is.
It is generally v useful though.

But beyond that until you've investigated any possible compromised integrity of the air route I don't see you can make progress.
I think you say you have eliminated intercooler and boost hoses??
There is still the inlet manifold and riser to it.
iCarsoft should have identified if the throttle valve is faulty at least.

Maybe someone here can point you / us toward a reasonably priced smoke test kit.

 

[Vympel]

Don't treat iCarsoft as gospel. It can be confused with its readings, sometimes the information needs clarifying to be sure it's reading the sensor you think it is.
It is generally v useful though.

But beyond that until you've investigated any possible compromised integrity of the air route I don't see you can make progress.
I think you say you have eliminated intercooler and boost hoses??
There is still the inlet manifold and riser to it.
iCarsoft should have identified if the throttle valve is faulty at least.

Maybe someone here can point you / us toward a reasonably priced smoke test kit.

Thanks for your input !

I will try to have the inlet manifold tested.
At the moment, the only thing I can say about is that after having inspected it with a camera.

I didn't see oils spots nor cracking around the bolts, and they were relatively in good condition, but a leak is a leak it can be
tiny and in a complete different spot.

 

[tpn]

Hey everyone!

Small update on my issue.

I got the differential pressure sensor replaced and it's still showing almost no pressure (it's never reaching a bar). The absolut best It reached was 0.09 bar or so.

Didn't manage with the icarsoft to reset and make it believe I changed the dpf it finish the operation with a failure.

Got a new fault code (That I already got in the past few weeks)

Also worth noting today at a red light my engine started chattering and the same happend a bit later after parking the car.

Other question can the fuel filter be responsible for such issues?

I got it replaced last year but maybe it's already really dirty due to bad fuel?

Ok let's get this clear. Replacing a DPF differential sensor will not sort your air noise problems.
The differential pressure sensor reading is not supposed to go to 1.00bar.
Usually 0.02 to 0.04 at idle and then to 0.08 OF A BAR.
You will need a Snap on diagnostic, or like, to tell the ECU that there is a new dpf fitted. MB 2 will not do that.

Your car will not regen while a fault is present.
On a small screen, but I think you suggested that the flap for turbo is not opening. Correct me if I am wrong...I will lose my post if I go back to see.

That is vacuum operated, so if it is not seized it is a vacuum/ solenoid/sensor problem, so back to the other vacuum sensor I previously mentioned...and check the vacuum pipes coming out of the black vacuum reserve on top of the EGR cooler.
Also check the pipe going into it.

If you get hung up on targeting the result rather than the cause you will not get anyplace

 

[tpn]

Actually, now on more mature recollection perhaps it was the swirl flap code you got...and that is back to inlet manifold once again.
An electric motor operates those

 

[Vympel]

Ok let's get this clear. Replacing a DPF differential sensor will not sort your air noise problems.
The differential pressure sensor reading is not supposed to go to 1.00bar.
Usually 0.02 to 0.04 at idle and then to 0.08 OF A BAR.
You will need a Snap on diagnostic, or like, to tell the ECU that there is a new dpf fitted. MB 2 will not do that.

Your car will not regen while a fault is present.
On a small screen, but I think you suggested that the flap for turbo is not opening. Correct me if I am wrong...I will lose my post if I go back to see.

That is vacuum operated, so if it is not seized it is a vacuum/ solenoid/sensor problem, so back to the other vacuum sensor I previously mentioned...and check the vacuum pipes coming out of the black vacuum reserve on top of the EGR cooler.
Also check the pipe going into it.

If you get hung up on targeting the result rather than the cause you will not get anyplace

I spoke about the turbo not opening because this was the fault code gave by icarsoft saying the low pressure turbo actuator does not close.

Thanks for your clarification on the dif. pressure sensor. I'm aware that this will not fix the air issues but 2 years ago I had EML and loss of power and the culprit was that little sensor so hence my "focus" on that.

I did check but not thoroughly the pipes coming from the black vacuum reserve, there was one at the connection with the black box that was a bit damaged, but the plastic pipes from the box was way deeper inside the rubber pipe so it could not leak from that one.

The rest of the pipes going from the vacuum reserve seemed fine at inspection, but I will start this over again and try to go step by step without making any assumption.

I will try eventually to check the inlet manifold by myself at least to have a better idea of its state.

Thanks again. Keeping you updated.

 

[tpn]

Not easy to check the inlet manifold.
The oily substance on the oil cooler is a giveaway for a sheared bottom bolt.
You will need a probe to see that

 

[LostKiwi]

Also check the hose to the PCV valve if you haven't already. That has boost pressure.
It's around 3/4'to 1" diameter.
Once again oil presence is a good clue but not definitive.

 

[Vympel]

Hey everyone !

An update regarding my issue that has been finally fixed !

Got super lucky and found an appointment on a Mercedes center 2 weeks ago and since then the car was there for repair.

So Mercedes changed a bunch of things, starting by the intake manifold and all the seals. The air duct that connect to the air filter and to the turbo was split somewhere as well.

So in the end it was definitely the intake manifold. It cracked as usual, and the seals were very worn.


A big thanks to everyone for the help and the insight on my issue.