W210 AC Faulty

[Smaltze]

When i first bought the car early 2015 i had an uncomfortable summer because my AC wasnt working atall, wouldnt blow atall cold in general let alone with the ac on. I didn't bother getting it refilled.

Now its winter and its the opposite, it wont blow even remotely hot. I finally got it refilled and they did say it was very empty but it has made no difference. Still pure freezing cold air and no hot no matter what i try... im FREEZING.

I got my reading/codes, here they are, i took them just after i got back from getting it refilled. anyone have any idea what i can do.

1-11
2-25
3-05
4-04
5-02
6-91
7-09
8-28
Codes:
E61 - 416, 231, 232, 233, 234, 235, 416, 419, 422. E-FF

I have now cleared the codes and run the car briefly but havn't driven it and no codes have returned.

 

[television]

The duo valve is the first thing to check, with the car set on max heat, feel the inlet pipe to the duo valve and it should be warm, then feel the 2 outputs, these should feel warm, when I say warm if the valve is opening, then they will or should be hot

 

[Botus]

When i first bought the car early 2015 i had an uncomfortable summer because my AC wasnt working atall, wouldnt blow atall cold in general let alone with the ac on. I didn't bother getting it refilled.

Now its winter and its the opposite, it wont blow even remotely hot. I finally got it refilled and they did say it was very empty but it has made no difference. Still pure freezing cold air and no hot no matter what i try... im FREEZING..

the AC element of your vehicle doesn't and can not provide any heating, its cooling and or humidity control, the heating is provided via the heater matrix just like a vehicle without AC.

You can have both on and it takes the humidity out of the air the matrix heats up and stops windows misting up, which is why its great to have the AC element working and use all year round.

I'd go with what Television says,

 

[bob 6600]

B1226 - In-car temperature sensor (B10/4)
B1227 - Outside temperature indicator temperature sensor (B14)
B1228 - Heater core temperature (B10/1)
B1229 - Heater core temperature (B10/1)
B1230 - Evaporator temperature sensor (B10/6)
B1231 - ECT sensor (B11/4)
B1232 - Refrigerant pressure sensor (B12)
B1233 - Refrigerant temperature sensor (B12/1)
B1234 - Sun sensor (B32)
B1235 - Emissions sensor (B31)
B1241 - Refrigerant fill
B1416 - Coolant circulation pump (M13)
B1417 - Duovalve (Y21y1), left
B1418 - Duovalve (Y21y2), right
B1419 - Electromagnetic clutch (A9k1)
B1420 - Idle speed increase
B1421 - Pulse module (N65)
B1422 - Series interface (K1) connection to instrument cluster (A1)
B1423 - Switchover valve block (Y11)
B1424 - Activated charcoal filter actuator (A32m2) open
B1425 - Activated charcoal filter actuator (A32m2) closed
B1432 - Non-USA DTC
B1459 - Series interface (K2) connection to instrument cluster (A1)
B1462 - Wide open throttle (WOT) position signal: diesel engines

 

[Smaltze]

The duo valve is the first thing to check, with the car set on max heat, feel the inlet pipe to the duo valve and it should be warm, then feel the 2 outputs, these should feel warm, when I say warm if the valve is opening, then they will or should be hot

ill be checking them tomorrow, i assume ill need to have run the car for a while for it to be noticable. And if the inlet pipe isnt hot that would mean the problem is further down right? in which case what would it be?

 

[television]

ill be checking them tomorrow, i assume ill need to have run the car for a while for it to be noticable. And if the inlet pipe isnt hot that would mean the problem is further down right? in which case what would it be?

The engine does have to be hot, this inlet pipe to the duo valve must be hot as it comes direct from the engine, though the duo valve is known to fail in the hot mode, when very bad the internal rubbers swell up preventing the valves from opening. You can also measure the voltage over the 3 pin plug. Center one is the common ground and each outside connection is fed from the control unit. One connection for each side of the car.

 

[Smaltze]

The engine does have to be hot, this inlet pipe to the duo valve must be hot as it comes direct from the engine, though the duo valve is known to fail in the hot mode, when very bad the internal rubbers swell up preventing the valves from opening. You can also measure the voltage over the 3 pin plug. Center one is the common ground and each outside connection is fed from the control unit. One connection for each side of the car.

atm im literally just freezing in my car, im reading in places that i could just take out part of the valve if it isnt working and set it to hot at all times. that would be absolutely fine by me haha. i will definitely have a go this seems like the likely cause! good news

 

[bob 6600]

It's not difficult to remove and check on a W210. They have been known to stick, sometimes a tap (hard tap) with a hammer frees them. If not, then a second hand unit is fairly cheap and cured my problem.

 

[Smaltze]

I took it apart and managed to break the umbrella shaped valve bits in the process, but i know you can leave them out, so i cleaned up the corrosion off the springed bits etc and its working great now all fixed

 

[television]

Pleased you did not get cold feet doing this, every one breaks the umbrellas I have a few spare, but too big for the 210.