w211 intermittent loss of power no fault code

Karwan

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2007 E320CDI v6 sport 124000 miles.

Hello all,
First I must thank this forum and all users for helping and sharing your knowledge, I have gained lots of knowledge here during the past years.

Now my car drives fine except randomly loses power and gain power again without any input from me (no restarts or kikdown or manually down shifting), uphill or not this happens but more prone to on uphill. Some time lasts for 10 seconds sometimes for minutes, something doesn't happen at all especially when driven like Firari yes seen ESP flashing on kikdown around 10-15 mph (265 rear tyer dry condition). Sometimes restarts brings power back.
Once on motorway going 70mph car lost power (not uphill) on kikdown the gearbox downshifted 1 or 2 gears but still no power, I put the gear into neutral while holding the gas paddle at the same position the engine rev went beond 4000 rpm.

9 out of 10 times this happens and no fault codes in the dash or DAS C4, the only fault I see in DAS is "front driver and passenger seat belt emergency retractor under voltage...replace" (but are working fine).

1 out of 10 times I get fault "actuation of torque converter lockup is not possible"
And "2802 no signal from ETC" please see photos. IMG_20200816_185613486_HDR.jpg IMG_20200816_191145465_HDR.jpg

Brought this E class back to life from needing a couple restarts and D and R selections to drive off by changing ATF and filter, changed glow plugs and preheat control module, O2 sensor, both air and fuel filters and turbo o ring, changed rear wheel speed sensor and magnetic ring, both side front lower control arms bolts, linkage, inner and outer steering tie rods.

I need help please anyone know what is wrong with the car any ideas and advise.
I do have access to DAS and C4 anything I should check using DAS.

Thank you.
IMG_20200816_191403853_HDR.jpg
 

Uncle Benz

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Do you get an odd shunting feeling from the driveline on long downhill coasting with your foot off the gas? Rear abs reluctor rings break up. The intermittant loss of signal does not record as a fault. The car thinks a wheel is locked or spinning, depending whether your foot is on the gas or not, and it will take the power away or dab the brakes. Watch the live data for any wheel speed irregularities
 
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Karwan

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Thank you Uncle Benz for your reply I have put a dealer abs ring on but the sensor was an aftermarket. But I have driven the car and monitoring the wheel speeds all 4 were reading okay during the power lose. Unless one wheel speed drops for seconds were the scanner don't see it.
Do you think I should get a dealer or bosch abs sensor and see.
 

Uncle Benz

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Have you replaced the reluctor rings on both sides?
 
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Karwan

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Not both I have only changed one side and the abs sensor
 

mioba

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Abs sensor will show up in the dash.
Actuators starting to fail do not.
Before blindly throwing money at and hoping you get the fault, have you reputable Indy at hand. Explain the issue and they more often will have seen it before.
 

Uncle Benz

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Abs sensor will show up in the dash.
Actuators starting to fail do not.
Before blindly throwing money at and hoping you get the fault, have you reputable Indy at hand. Explain the issue and they more often will have seen it before.

Not always. I’ve seen loads of rotten reluctor rings which go round with the driveshaft but occasionally pause or stop. The ECU doesn’t see a fault, it sees a wheel which has momentarily stopped spinning. It will cut the power and/or cycle other wheel brakes. It’s following the pre-programmed proceedure for that scenario. It doesn’t see an open circuit or a short circuit. The sensor is correctly reporting what it sees. It can’t be ruled out at this stage.
 
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Karwan

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Thank you for your inputs and here are Updates.
I and the garage mechanic (fitter really not a fixer) test drove the car and saw something like "calculated gear or calculated speed implausible" while watching live gearbox data. The mechanic decided to open-up the conductor plate and check sensors and solenoids, everything looks fine except the far corner one has burnt or overheating marks on it please see the plate photo. Cleaned and put everything back in and test drove the car for over 5 miles testing all gears and mods everything is fine until the power lose again. Didn't turn the car off until power came back, when we got a junction while standing still I turned the ESP button off drove off again for another 4 miles made no difference to the power lose. However around the corner from the garage (about 100 meters) we heard a grinding nose from the rear twice, we continued to the garage and stopped to park the car, put the gear into reverse engaged and moved backwards but put it into D not moving forward.

Mechanic suggested that solenoid is defective and needs changing, changed with a new Blue cap one but the car still moves backwards only.

Jacked the left rear wheel and turned the ESP off via the Dashboard cluster and steering buttons the wheel picks up speed going forward, while in D lowered the car and move the jack away drove around the corner I could hear the wheel drifting in normal acceleration.
Stop restart the car not moving forward only backwards

Garage said will check on Monday.
 

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fadihanna1

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Thank you for your inputs and here are Updates.
I and the garage mechanic (fitter really not a fixer) test drove the car and saw something like "calculated gear or calculated speed implausible" while watching live gearbox data. The mechanic decided to open-up the conductor plate and check sensors and solenoids, everything looks fine except the far corner one has burnt or overheating marks on it please see the plate photo. Cleaned and put everything back in and test drove the car for over 5 miles testing all gears and mods everything is fine until the power lose again. Didn't turn the car off until power came back, when we got a junction while standing still I turned the ESP button off drove off again for another 4 miles made no difference to the power lose. However around the corner from the garage (about 100 meters) we heard a grinding nose from the rear twice, we continued to the garage and stopped to park the car, put the gear into reverse engaged and moved backwards but put it into D not moving forward.

Mechanic suggested that solenoid is defective and needs changing, changed with a new Blue cap one but the car still moves backwards only.

Jacked the left rear wheel and turned the ESP off via the Dashboard cluster and steering buttons the wheel picks up speed going forward, while in D lowered the car and move the jack away drove around the corner I could hear the wheel drifting in normal acceleration.
Stop restart the car not moving forward only backwards

Garage said will check on Monday.
Hey i have exactly the same problem, did you solved you problem?
 

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