Latest update re my C220 Majestic Beauty!!!!

[alexanderfoti]

Um, we can only see the bottom we cannot get in to use tissues. Unless there is a way to get in that we’ve not tried yet?



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If you remove the sender/pump you can go through the resulting hole.

 

[NBurns]

Was the inlet manifold removed at the time?

Nope!!



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[alexanderfoti]

Nope!!

...... ...

 

[NBurns]

If you remove the sender/pump you can go through the resulting hole.

Is that the one under the passenger rear seat?



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[NBurns]

...... ...

Okay. Even more concerned now. What have I done now?



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[alexanderfoti]

Is that the one under the passenger rear seat?



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Both sides can be used.

 

[alexanderfoti]

Okay. Even more concerned now. What have I done now?

The other end of the inlet manifold is connected to the engine.

The engine that was locked due to previously ingesting water.

That has now had more water blasted into the cylinders.

Once you get it running (if), the oil will need changing as its probably mayo.

 

[Blobcat]

I think I’ve found the “how to” video you’ve been watching...

 

[NBurns]

The other end of the inlet manifold is connected to the engine.

The engine that was locked due to previously ingesting water.

That has now had more water blasted into the cylinders.

Once you get it running (if), the oil will need changing as its probably mayo.

Again?!!! Oh heck (harsher words used but not publishable!!!). I bought and did a complete oil and filter change while changing everything else.



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[alexanderfoti]

Again?!!! Oh heck (harsher words used but not publishable!!!). I bought and did a complete oil and filter change while changing everything else.
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Get the thing running first. Deal with the other issues later!

 

[LostKiwi]

I will reiterate. Never ever jetwash under the bonnet.

I need to understand the sequence here to know what your next steps are.

What (in chronological order) did you do/replace? This is important as it will determine the corrective steps to take.

 

[NBurns]

Get the thing running first. Deal with the other issues later!

Yep. That’s really helpful. Thank you. Been through quite a bit of c**p since this all went wrong. And my depression has had lots of lows and highs.



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[alexanderfoti]

If you can get the car recovered to me. I will be happy it spend a couple of hours to see if I can rescue it, for free.

I will only charge for parts needed.

The offer is always available, but I cannot garuntee it will run again.

 

[LostKiwi]

Some background info here.
The inlet manifold joins to the cylinder head. At the head the air flows from the manifold into the inlet port. At the end of the port are inlet valves. These open and close under the action of the camshaft. When the valve is closed the port is a closed pipe (note this is not a perfect seal and liquid over time will deep past). When the valve is open the inlet port flows air into the cylinder. When an engine stops it can stop at any point in the cycle so valves may be open or shut and without visually checking we cannot be sure. Within the cylinder is a piston. This seals the bottom of the cylinder and is under the control of the crankshaft (which also turns the camshaft via a 2:1 reduction). Like the valves the pistons are not a perfect seal. At the top of the cylinder we have the exhaust valve. When open it allows gas from the cylinder into the exhaust port and then out into the exhaust manifold.

So when you filled the inlet manifold with water one or more valves was open. This allowed water into the cylinders. Some of the water will go past the pistons (and sealing rings) into the bottom of the engine where the oil sits. This contaminated oil cannot be used.
When you tried to start the engine some of the water was still in the cylinders. As the crankshaft turned it shut the valves at the top of the cylinder. As we know water is not compressible hence the engine locked up. Removing the injectors and turning the engine over then allowed the water to be forcibly expelled.

So now we know how the water got in there.

Potential issues:
1. Turning over the engine with water in the bores can damage conrods. We won't know if this is an issue until it starts. If it had happened it requires an engine strip down to replace the conrod(s). Conrods connect the pistons to the crankshaft.
2. If the water has sat for any length of time it may have corroded internal parts. Valves and cylinders are most likely. Again we won't know this until it's started and again to rectify will require a strip down.
3. Water in the fuel can damage pumps and injectors.
4. Water and paper element filters don't get on well together. Any paper element filter that has got wet should be inspected and ideally replaced. Paper filters are used for air, oil and fuel filters.

So once we understand the sequence properly of what was done, what was replaced etc the plan to recover can be put together.
The simplest recovery is ditch everything (filters, fuel, oil) and replace with new before doing anything else but obviously that's also not necessarily a financial option.

 

[LostKiwi]

If you can get the car recovered to me. I will be happy it spend a couple of hours to see if I can rescue it, for free.

I will only charge for parts needed.

The offer is always available, but I cannot garuntee it will run again.

That's incredibly generous Alex!

 

[NBurns]

Oh yes. Where do we ditch the contaminated diesel and white stuff to? Something neither my girlfriend nor I have had to do before.



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[NBurns]

If you can get the car recovered to me. I will be happy it spend a couple of hours to see if I can rescue it, for free.

I will only charge for parts needed.

The offer is always available, but I cannot garuntee it will run again.

Thank you. Much appreciated.



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[LostKiwi]

Oh yes. Where do we ditch the contaminated diesel and white stuff to? Something neither my girlfriend nor I have had to do before.



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Most council waste sites have facilities for dumping oil. Treat the diesel as oil and put it in plastic containers to empty into the waste drum.

 

[LostKiwi]

This may help:

 

[umblecumbuz]

By removing the two inspection covers on either side of the fuel tank you could sponge out the residue using a cloth on a stick.

Check your sump oil level carefully. If it has risen since your last check, then you've got water in the oil because of washing the inlet manifold. Fresh oil and filter is the safe way forward.

Electrical gremlins may well be your next headache, but get the motor running first, and they can be sorted later.

I can't ever remember a saga as convoluted and painful as this. Possibly, once you car is running, you could write a self-help book on this learning curve? Who knows - it might be an all-time winner.