Reduced performance due to boost solenoid?

[ManLikeEnes]

Greetings fellow Mercedes-Benz Owners,
I bought a lovely W203 C270 CDI a few months ago and I've had loads of happy motoring with it. However when I initially bought the car, I had to replace the boost solenoid since the present one was causing limp mode. When I ordered a new one, it arrived with a broken piece but after super gluing it with silicone sealant, it somewhat worked but I decided to order another one since it was only planned on being a temporary fix. However when I received the other solenoid, it threw the car into limp mode again and threw up codes so I ditched that one and requested a return as well as ordered ANOTHER solenoid with a vacuum filter but I was wondering if there was potentially other causes such as a vacuum leak or even a faulty MAF?

0-60mph takes about 15 seconds (when it should take about 9 secs) and I have noticed the car seems to very slightly fluctuate on idle here and there (only by about 100 revs or so) although I'm not sure if this is because of my botch job on the solenoid.

I don't suspect it could be the filters or injectors although the glow plug light does stay on for about 45-60 seconds after starting the car before going away, would appreciate feedback, thanks.

 

[DSK]

What codes were thrown up? Some members may be able to ensure you are heading in the right direction.

Glow plugs - may be a faulty plug, short on a plug or relay. To be honest due to age, I’d just replace the entire lot as a routine service item, if you are keeping the car. This should solve your glow plug light.

Again due to age, I’d want to see live values for engine sensors to ensure they are optimum. You can also smoke test your system for leaks, as so much gets past the human eye.

Try a decent injector cleaner like archoil.

What are the air filter(s) like? These are key for diesels but, are another item the manufacturer has blindly put stupid service intervals on to provide idiots with illusion of cheaper service costs.


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[brandwooddixon]

+1 getting codes read again.
Low performance may be caused by split boost hose (turbo to inlet manifold).
Does the engine revolution limiter cut in at a lower rpm than before, say 3000rpm?
Vacuum lines become brittle with age and can be easily broken when being handled. A smoke or vacuum test will confirm.
With regard to new parts throwing faults, ensure that the part is from an OEM manufacturer if not purchasing from MB, pattern parts often do not perform well.
If you suspect the MAF, try disconnecting it and see how the car runs, on a petrol at least the engine management resorts to a fixed default map and can often appear to cure running issues.

 

[ManLikeEnes]

Good afternoon chaps, I had error code P0238 pop up on the last one but I did have a P0035 the other day as well. I have thought about replacing the glow plugs in the next upcoming service too.
By the way I checked the MAF yesterday and it looked brand spanking new although when I disconnected the MAF cable, the throttle response felt much better but it was capped at 2000RPM. With the MAF back on the RPM didn't cut off (went all the way to 4200RPM) but it just feels quite slow in comparison. I haven't checked the air filter yet though.
I do appreciate the advice and I'm sure there's something I may not be seeing so I do intend on taking her to the garage to inspect for vacuum leaks even if the new part works just in case.
I should point out she is also on 209,000 miles