SL500 R230 - Charging consumer AUX battery with boot stuck locked

[Philedge]

SH0X,
[FONT=&quot]
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[FONT=&quot]The disconnection of these wires isolates the following:-[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]S118/ 1&2 Left and right Right tubular frame locked limit switch[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]S69/2&3 Vario-roof "locked" limit switch (left and right rotary tumbler) [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]In plain English(!) what this means is that the roof control module thinks the roof is partially open, so will allow it to open or close further (not sure if that was plain!)[/FONT]

Great plain english description! So with the switches frigged to the part open position, does the roof still operate if the conveinience functions are disabled due to low battery?

 

[SH0X]

Great plain english description! So with the switches frigged to the part open position, does the roof still operate if the conveinience functions are disabled due to low battery?

My roof now opens and closes (previously didnt as had boot separator open)
However no convenience functions work still so I am charging the consumer battery

 

[television]

I will study the circuits to find a charging point elsewhere, and add it to the thread, we know the battery goes to the pre fuse box, but that is horrible to get to.

 

[Philedge]

My roof now opens and closes (previously didnt as had boot separator open)
However no convenience functions work still so I am charging the consumer battery

If you've reinstated the limit switches then I dont think the roof will operate with the conveinience functions disabled which suggests your battery is charged enough and should be able to power all the locking.

 

[television]

The above is true as my roof will not open if the main battery down to 11.75 volts.

 

[Philedge]

 

[television]

I see, so you did not know that the consumers cut off at 11.75 volts.

 

[Philedge]

at the positivity of post 25

 

[AMGeed]

^^ C'mon guys, kiss and make up. Life's too short for tiffs on the forum.

 

[SH0X]

Guys I'm loving the access to the boot and the answer to my initial query has been solved with your help but I am now stuck without any consumers and I need to open the fuel flap to fill up.

Not sure where to go with this.
tried hooking my other cars battery up to the aux battery via jump leads to no joy

When I press the lock button on dash or unlock I hear a click but nothing happens. I can't remote central lock the car. It is behaving the way a low consumer battery would do.

Battery has been trickle charged over night.
Roof works at normal speed.
20 a fuse is ok aswell

My boot was always a little damp nothing drastic but I knew the seal needed attention and this was my time to do it.

If I could fill her up I'm sure the car would sort itself out like it has been doing.

Any ideas guys? Thanks

 

[television]

Your problems are with the PSE pump, if it has got wet, or even damp, then many problems can arise. You can lift the vacuum pipe carrier off the pump and blow or suck through each pipe in turn, and the fuel flap should open.

These vacuum pipes do have codes, but I do not have that info to hand as to say what one does what.

You can remove the connectors by levering off with an open ended 7mm spanner.

 

[David Arnott]

OK, first thing, the “consumers offline” (unavailable) will give you the following:-
- seat heaters inoperative
- seat fans inoperative
- Vario roof can only be raised
- AAC blower is regulated up to a maximum of 50%
- rear window defroster inoperative
- parktronic switched off
- radio volume limited

The central locking (PSE pump) is NOT part of the above.

So you have a PSE problem, is the click from the PSE? It should be a motor running noise not a click.
Have you had the central locking working previously?

To unlock the fuel flap (if the PSE is not working), you need to apply a vacuum on the yellow pipe on the PSE marked “TD”
You can buy a cheap hand vacuum pump (brake bleeder) from Halfords etc.

 

[television]

Will members please note that most of the information in this thread does not all apply to the 230 as of model year 09

 

[SH0X]

Hello

Thank you both for the replies and the very usefull information. I'm sure it will also help others.

The click sounds like something attempting to turn.
I'll have to get someone to press whilst I have a listen to the pump.

Central locking has always previously worked unless battery was low and needed a jump start and which case I need to use blade.
However currently I am having to use blade but car starts fine so not sure if this is linked.
I have noticed that keyless handle operated entry and start is always working.

I will try the td marked lines manually as you say with the 7 mm spanner to remove and see where I go from there.

I feel if I can get this car fueled I can take it from there and see what happens. I may have to start using my car cover until I fix the seal just to prevent any fur the ingress.

I shall update you as soon as I get a chance to work on the car.

 

[SH0X]

Guys you have nailed it

I followed the above and lifted the roof pump then moved out the PSE pump
Removed TD hose with small flat screw driver to pry it out
Sucked on the hose and heard a pop... my fuel flap released!

So this means I can now drive my car. You guys I owe you one!

When I get time and a clear day I will get as many pictures as I can to help anyone else in this position.

So I now have everything back to normal, bar the central locking which I am hoping will sort itself out from a bit of driving and another charge perhaps on the trickle charger...

The only thing I havent got working again is the boot wont unlock. There is no red light on the drivers pull to open button either. Im thinking to try suction on the HECK hose?

If I can get my boot unlocking I want to now ASAP proceed to do the epoxy mod, rust treat and refit my window seal and epoxy my boot lock diaphragm as it used to leak when I opened the boot

A link also another thread which I just stumbled accross where I can see you guys have identified the PSE connections which may help others searching for info : http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=134158

 

[television]

You have got to get the PSE pump running, and all the locking and boot control will be back to normal.

 

[SH0X]

You have got to get the PSE pump running, and all the locking and boot control will be back to normal.

Sorry

I forgot to say, I heard and felt the PSE turning over randomly and it wasnt wet however the foam below it was wet

 

[David Arnott]

SH0X

As Malcolm says, if you need a PSE I always have them (see fleaBay).

On the manual boot opening, The boot lock works on pressure, there is an elecrtical solenoid as part of the boot lock and this diverts the pressure to the black plastic element to unlock the boot.
To "soft close" the boot, the pressure is diverted (by the solenoid) to the white plastic element, to pull the boot lid down.

"Heck" is the required pipe. I don't know if you can blow enough, maybe.

 

[SH0X]

thanks again for the responses

I will bare your PSEs in mind should I need one

I might give it a go, what the HECK have I got to loose

I think Maybe Ill try it with roof closed and see if I can lead HECK pipe down via hole in boot floor and gain access from under the car

 

[SH0X]

Hi guys

Just a repeat thank you to everyone on the forum that took the time to share their experience and suggestions to help in this sticky situation, I remember every time Im in the car.

During the past few months have been doing my best to make the car better and future proof and have picked up a few bits and bobs Id like to share - its been going around in my head for months just struggling to find the time to get it posted!

On this subject Id like to share some tips I have discovered:

1. Whilst the center console / arm rest is accessible it may be a good idea to remove the screws for the rear arm rest cover (pics will follow) - this will allow you access to the yellow vacuum lines which control the GLOVEBOX ARM REST AND REAR CUBBIES. This means you can SUCK or BLOW as above mentioned by very helpful experienced members in order to open or close these areas should you be locked out.

2. The boot lock diaphragm can sometimes break the epoxy seal (if you have done the epoxy repair) so what I did with mine was (after it broke the seal again) use thin wire to tie the diaphragm thus ensuring it doesn't pop and there is less pressure on the epoxy seal.

3. The PSE pump / Central locking pump in the boot can play up if moisture gets to it (caused by leaks big or small / brake light / boot seal / rear lights) . I find the factory foam used to enclose the pump holds moisture which is no good and makes it worse so I have ditched this all and raised the pump on polystyrene so it is not sitting directly on the boot floor.

My central locking stopped working - I had to get a blade style key made up to make it easy to lock unlock the car as it was annoying pulling the blade out of the main jey each time. I did this for several months. Then in the summer one day I loaned the car to my best pal and when he brought it back the central locking was working?? Im putting this down to two things - the car wasnt driven much as I had another 2 cars and giving it a long drive helped charge the batteries somehow & secondly the pump must have dried out in the very hot (convertible) weather over the summer months.. I got lucky! I would suggest anyone who thinks theres moisture or a damp pump dry it out with a hairdryer perhaps??

4. If you change the brake light bulbs or remove your rear tail tights for any reason and they are not fully flush fitted back in place , rain water can make its way into the actual lamp housing and sit there - you will see this from the outside as drips of water.. However if you remove the lamp housing you may find yourself a puddle literally of water in there and this damages in terms of corrosion your LED lower lights or possibly the light circuit board or terminals - which can give you all sorts of frustrating annoying bulb out errors even when you have changed the bulbs etc. This had be frustrated for a good few months before I realised the plug connector itself was corroded inside even after much cleaning (which made it worse as I opened up the size of the clamps without realising which meant the terminals were not engaging)
I considered sealing up the insides of the lights as if I show you a pic of the back of the lamp housing you will see how easy it could be for water to ruin your light circuitry and give you constant substitute lamp errors etc.

5. After the advice kindly given to me of how to manually override the boot / roof opening above I wired up 2 fuses to allow me to pull them to let the roof work without the boot separator being closed - great for emergencies.

6. The car used to be weak starting and often fail to start not starting after long drives etc. Even after Ctek charging no joy. I bought a new stronger battery (had to take a gamble on a different sized one as was hard to source a direct replacement - didnt try Mercedes directly though) and since then the car has been spot on and sounds like it spins much faster on startup. All that farting around, keying car on, keyless go and blade locking door when paying for fuel etc all things of the past after fitting a new £60 battery! PLEASE DO IT! 5 year warranty cant go wrong??

Youll have to excuse this post its more for information for those searching for answers to problems or things to try rather than a guide or direct info. Its 3am and this has been going around in my mind for several months and I have wanted to share as know how frustrating it was trying to investigate such niggles.

Hopefully Ill get some more time to post up a proper thread. Hope this helps someone struggling out there.