w124 coupe fuel line leak

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W124 E220 COUPE
i'm trying to get my w124 coupe mot'd but one of the fuel lines has completely rusted through and is leaking at the rear of the car before the arch.
nowhere seems to sell fuel lines specific for the car, only flex hose or metal that has to be cut to size, can anyone advise me on what my options are?
i would prefer to do the job myself if possible as a pose to paying hundreads of pounds.
also my prop shaft bearing is gone as my prop shaft makes a scraping under heavy breaking and reversing, i was planning on just getting a second hand prop shaft (2pieces) off ebay and then getting it rebalanced, would this sort my scraping issue?
thanks
ash
 

television

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There are kits on the market, plus a few members have done this job, a search should bring some info up.

A secondhand prop shaft should not require balancing, if that is the problem
 
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thanks mate
cant seem to find a kit anywhere though
 

hotrodder

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I would've thought a new prop centre bearing would be cheaper than a complete used prop whose centre bearing may have 100k + miles on it?

MB should sell you fuel hard lines (they all have part nos) but IIRC while the ends will be swaged they'll be supplied as straight lengths and need bending where necessary. Relatively speaking it's a 'kin expensive way to buy hardlines that'll rust. To do a 'proper' job with some copper, cunifer or ally tube the ends need swaging/beading like the bit circled in red...

PC040200.jpg

to create a 'hose retention' bump. The tools to do that ain't cheap. I use 'em all the time so £300 odd for a set to swage from 1/4" (AN/JIC-6) upto over 1" dia was money well spent. While hose retention beads aren't 100% necessary they perform several important functions which is why car manufacturers bother... better hose security, less likely to leak and makes the end of the hard line a LOT stiffer so it's less likely to be squashed if the hose clips are tightened by a gorilla

The kits Malcolm mentioned are probably hydraulic line repair kits which use compression fittings? If one of the hardlines has rusted through the rest probably aren't that far behind i.e. finding some pipework in good enough condition to accept compression fittings may be more difficult than finding the fittings themselves...
 

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The main part that rust is always the part that is near the rear subframe and axle, the front part is usually good, fitting a new one is not easy if it passes under the rear subframe.
 

Richard Moakes

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I made up new lines using cunifer tubing bent using external pipe bending springs. The lines were in dreadful condition and I couldn't have changed them without dropping the subframe. Not an easy job I am afraid.


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